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Foundation Material for Model Railroad Layout

John asks readers:

“I am seeking Pros & Cons of using solid 2″ insulation for my N scale layout base please?”

13 Responses to Foundation Material for Model Railroad Layout

  • Donsays:

    I am using both. 2 inch can be used with very little suport, a perimeter framework. It is very rigid. 1 inch is better with a lattice like a bed frame.I also mount 1 inch on 1/2 inch plywood for flat areas such as yards. Some people make very lite portable layouts without any suports. Both can be bonded with Liquid Nails for Projects. It is also good for bonding roadbed and risers. Track can be bonded with DAP caulk. Latex paint, flat works well with it. Lastly, I have been able to spray paint it with Rustoleum 2X for plastics. Test your foam first, it may not work with all foams.

    • Johnsays:

      Don, wonderful suggestions. Greatly appreciated.

      Thanks, john

  • The Salty Smithsays:

    2″ foam works great as a base, it is easily glues together to create elevations and easily carvable to make streams and rock formations. Foam readily accepts plaster, paper mache, paint and is easy to plant trees and fences into. Myself I lay a base of homasote then build up the foam as this gives me the sound dampening I need, remember to glue down as much as possibe with as few mechanical fastners as possible. Nails and screws will trandfer sound down to your base structure. 2″ foam is also great to moisture resistance.

    • Johnsays:

      Salty Smith Thanks. Members response & suggestions have extremely helpful.
      John

  • David Broadsays:

    Don’t use a solid 2″ base, Nothing says toy train more than a flat baseboard. Use L girders and maybe 1″ insulation over 1/2″ ply for the track bed, but keep the area with no tracks low or higher than the tracks. That’s the way to make your road a model not a toy train.

    • Johnsays:

      David, your input is greatly appreciated.
      Thanks, John

  • William Hardardtsays:

    I have a 4×8 n scale layout on foam . It has worked well . Quiet easy to handle ,just poke your trees etc in and it stays. Only drawback is it dents, don’t drop your tools or engines on it . Bill

    • Johnsays:

      Bill, appreciate your response. Never thought about potential denting. Definitely leaning using insulation.
      Thanks,john

  • Ron Scannellsays:

    I agree with everything Don says…but I admit I didnt know about Rustoleum 2X, I will have to try that. I am using 1 inch foam (should have 2 inch). Mounting switch machines can be a problem…I have seen articles that show cutting a hole large enough for the swich machine, mounting it on a piece of plywood and imbedding it under the switch. I also recommend you get a hotwire tool for cutting the foam (try your local craft store).

    • Johnsays:

      Ron, sound, constructive suggestions.
      Thanks. John

  • J E Wilsonsays:

    I have a 6′ x 11′ layout and have used essentially every type of base and build up there is. Some is base of homasote for the yard area and the rest is either wood girders with foam build up, or base of foam and built up from there with various types and thicknesses of foam. Foam is very easy to shape with a knife or hot wire foam cutter, after getting the rough shape of the mountain wanted I build up with rock molds of plaster or foam ant then I finish mold areas with ‘sculpt a mold’. I think that you will enjoy the foam a lot, I certainly do. My layout is HO, HOn3, HOn2 1/2 (N scale track) and Z gauge for a low mining area far far away. Have a bunch of fun with it.

  • Lloydsays:

    Use thicker than 2 inch of you plan on having underpasses ( for clearance ), and to have depth for deep rivers cuts.

  • Lloydsays:

    Go thicker than 2″ if you won’t to drop the track, have under passes ( for clearance). Or deep river cuts

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