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Double Throw/Double Pole Switch

Bill has a question although I am a little confused with the last part???

“How do you wire a double throw/double pole switch so I can isolate sections of my track?
Also, I need parts for old locomotives. Are there sites for parts- Trucks for a 4-10-4 Check made engine, typical question?”

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One Response to Double Throw/Double Pole Switch

  • Geof says:

    Using a double pole double throw switch to isolate sections of track is kind of an expensive and hard way to do it (I’m assuming your using a two rail system such as HO scale in my description). By the way, what you are trying to do is called ‘block’ control and you can purchase or get books from the library to better explain than anything I can do. I also suggest trying the NMRA web page which has a number of free instructional pages available for this sort of question.

    Anyway, here goes. Connect your power supply track terminal wires to the two center poles/terminals on the toggle, one power pack terminal for each side. To help visualize the switch’s poles as seen from the bottom, think of the letter H. The bar on the H would be the center pole’s location and the lower ‘leg’ poles would go to one section of track and the upper ‘leg’ poles would go to the other. When you flip the toggle to one side of the switch, that section of track will have power and when you switch the toggle to the other position, only that side will have power. Make sure that you match the toggle switch rail connections to the same rail sides of the track. If you don’t, your train will reverse direction when it enters that section or ‘block’. If it does, just reverse the wire connections and it should be okay. Note that you will have to electrically isolate BOTH of the track rails at EACH END of the track section by either using isolated rail joiners OR cutting each rails with a Dremel tool or a very fine hacksaw and putting a squirt of model glue in the gap to prevent the rails from touching by expansion.

    A better way to do it is to buy single pole switches instead. When using a single pole switch, you only have to isolate one rail of the section’s rails by using an insulated rail joiner (or cutting it as I described above) on either side of each end of the section you wish to isolate. Run power pack power to one of the terminals on the single pole switch (which is essentially an ‘on / off’ switch) and then run a wire from the remaining pole to your isolated track section. Repeat using a single pole switch for EACH section you wish to have separate control over. As before, be sure NOT to mix you wiring connections or you’ll end up with unexpected reversing locos and/or short circuits.

    It is important that you always select the same side of the track you have selected for isolating sections so, as an example, always choose the inside rails when isolating sections of a loop. That way, the outside rail is never cut or isolated but the inner loop sections are depending on where you want to have specific control by using the single pole switches. It is sometimes helpful to trace one rail with your finger and marking that side with a piece of tape so you don’t lose track of which is a ‘solid’ rail and which is the one that you want electrically sectioned. Obviously, you must keep the terminals on you power pack similarly designated for which ever track they are powering. I use a felt tip marker to color the terminal screw that I will be ALWAYS using to supply power to the sectioned rails.

    Hope this helps. If not, purchase a book on model railroad wiring. They only cost about $12 (US).

    Sorry, I can’t help you much on getting trucks for your Chek loco. If you know the manufacturer, do a ‘Google’ search and you might find who made it or possibly find a parts supplier. Good luck.

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