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N Scale Gradients
Bill asks a question similar to others that have been asked on this blog (use the search box). Would someone like to answer this for Bill:
“I am about to build my new N scale railroad, can one of your readers advise me the gradiant ratio as i wish to climb into a mountain terrain?”
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4 Responses to N Scale Gradients
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You should be able to ballast EZ track using the same step-by-step methods as for track layed on cork. The glue mixture I use is 50/50. However, I have found that white glue such as Elmer’s, dries clear. I’ve had yellow glue leave a yellow cast on ballast which doesn’t look right.
As is true in other scales, the maximum grade on your layout depends on your expected train length and motive power. A four unit diesel lashup will be able to handle steeper grades than a single steam unit, a shorter train will be easier to pull up grades than a longer one. Generally speaking grades of 2.5% are OK, but you don’t want to exceed 3% in most cases.
For what it’s worth, when the transcontinental line was authorized by Congress they specified that grades could not exceed those found on the B&O, which were 2.2%.
Somehow my response to N Scale Gradients got lost in cyberspace! The response attached was for a question about ballasting Bachman EZ track!
What I responded was pretty much what Larry says. Obviously keeping the grade as low as possible given the space you have on your layout is key. Sometimes, creative use of a helix can get grade lowered in a short space.
Bill,
Larry’s remarks are right on but another factor you must consider when using grades is if there are any curves in the graded track. The sharper the curve, the more friction on the car’s wheels which impacts the pulling power of your loco(s). (This also affects pulling power on level track but it is most noticeable on grades.) For example, I have two curves with different degrees of sharpness with the SAME grade on my layout. If I run a locomotive with a string of cars along this track, it can handle the broader curve with the grade but not the sharper curve that has the same grade (the loco just sits there with spinning wheels).
If you have a track plan situation that I have described, I suggest that you temporarily put down your track and run a few trains of different lengths to see what your motive power can handle and adjust the grade accordingly. Don’t get too discouraged if you find that you can’t run train lengths that you’d like to. Even REAL railroads have this problem!
Also, in case you are wondering how to figure the grade calculation, it’s simple. For a 1% grade, your track would raise 1 scale foot over 100 scale feet of track length. For a 2% grade it would be a 2 scale feet raise over 100 scale feet and so on.
One other tip concerning grades is that you can SOMETIMES increase your locomotives pulling power by adding weight to your engines over the driver wheels.
Another solution is to get something called Bull Frog Snot and apply it to your loco’s drivers (steam or diesel). It acts like a traction tire. Do a Goggle search and you should be able to find some dealers on the Net. The down side is that you have to be careful not to coat the loco’s electrical pick-up wheels because the Snot acts as an insulator since it is a latex.
Hope this helps,
Geof