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Problems Soldering Track
Bill is having problems soldering track and asks readers:
“I have brass track and every time I try to solder I either get a blob of solder, or it’s so thin it doesn’t hold. I use brass because I have something like 300 feet. I’ve tried two different soldering guns and different solder. Is there a iron or gun that works best and what type of solder works best on brass?”
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6 Responses to Problems Soldering Track
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Chances are it’s not your soldering iron but rather the flux. Use a good quality liquid flux. Check Micromark.com for source.
Bill,
It sounds like you may not be using the proper type of flux. This chemical cleans and prepares the metal for the molten solder. Some solders have a resin core which acts as a flux so you may want to try that type if you haven’t already.
Hope this helps,
Geof
Hi Bill, I never used brass track but I did a lot of welding and “BRAZING” in my day. Brass takes a very high temp, oxy acetelyene mix flame. I never used lead or similar solder with brass. You can get thin brazing rods at automotive supply stores with or with out a white flux coating on it, the white flux makes it easier but can be a bit messy and you have to be real good at this becaust the fix is not as easy as it is with soldering. If you are not careful you will melt the track beyond repair so if you dare practice on a scrap piece of track. I think the home depot type stores sell a hi temp tank and brazing kit that is fairly reasonable and has real thin brazing rods and fine point flame to achieve what you are looking for. (I think this is MAP gas but I am not sure.) If any one else knows something different about welding brass “brazing” please let us know. Please let us know what you do and what worked for you. Tony P
Come on Tony P. BRAZING model rr track… be more like a bonfire.
If you haven’t tried it, use a low melting point reisn core solder with a temperature controled soldering station. Clean the track, slip it together and solder. Remember PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE. Too much heat/time will melt the plastic ties, not enough heat/time will produce what is called a “cold solder joint.” One that does not have electrical flow.
I can not resist… come on anonymous, show some guts tell us who are you? put up or shut up. what you suggest is just going to continue the problem he is haveing now if you read his question he is already doing what you said to do to no avail. not enough heat the track will not get hot enough for anything to stick to it even with a good flux with solder, too much heat with solder and any kind of flux the solder will just flow away. If (“pin point brazing”) as I said in my last answer, is done right and with a heat shield (which I failed to mention in my last comment) there will be little or no damage to the ties and if that becomes a real issu remove the ties and relace them after the brazing is done, or as soon as the brazing is complete cool it down with a squirt of water. This is the beginning of the layout and the final steps as with any building process of a layout will cover over the little messes here and there. as I said in my last comment practice on a scrap piece or track. like any thing else patience takes time and a job done right is worth the extra time and trouble. I would still like to hear from Bill as to what he did, hopefully he will tell us what worked best so we can all learn. Tony P
Thanks to all that responded. I have gotten the process to work. What I did was to wire brush the rails first via my dremal tool, then I found out that my 25 watt iron wasn’t hot enough. I then used my 100/140 watt gun. Also I chane my dia. of my solder down to .032 Now I’amd able to solder joints with out removing the plastic ties. Again Thanks