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	<title>
	Comments on: DCC Switcher Back Lights	</title>
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	<description>Model railroads and model trains</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Mon, 26 Nov 2012 01:50:00 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		By: Anonymous		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2009/03/dcc-switcher-back-lights.html#comment-230</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Anonymous]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 19 Apr 2009 04:45:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://68.171.208.138/~blogmode/2009/03/dcc-switcher-back-lights.html#comment-230</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Skip,&lt;br /&gt;     I&#039;ve just completed installing a Loksound DCC/sound decoder into a S1. I wired 3mm golden white LED&#039;s with 560ohm resistors connected to the common (blue lead)as a separate rear backing light &amp; a separate cab light. I used a small 3 point connector (available from hobby shop, Micromark) to plug the common &amp; yellow/green wires running from the led&#039;s to the decoder. I did this so that I can unplug the S1 body shell from the chassis. Your decoder should still have the yellow(backup light) and green (accessories) wires still attached. The common (blue wire) can be tapped at any convenient place. Use .25W resistors &amp; heatshrink to insulate joins. You may need to program some CV&#039;s to get the lights operating to your choice - its not hard, but if you take your time it&#039;ll be a worthwhile completed exercise.&lt;br /&gt;Good luck&lt;br /&gt;Ian (Aus)]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Skip,<br />     I&#8217;ve just completed installing a Loksound DCC/sound decoder into a S1. I wired 3mm golden white LED&#8217;s with 560ohm resistors connected to the common (blue lead)as a separate rear backing light &#038; a separate cab light. I used a small 3 point connector (available from hobby shop, Micromark) to plug the common &#038; yellow/green wires running from the led&#8217;s to the decoder. I did this so that I can unplug the S1 body shell from the chassis. Your decoder should still have the yellow(backup light) and green (accessories) wires still attached. The common (blue wire) can be tapped at any convenient place. Use .25W resistors &#038; heatshrink to insulate joins. You may need to program some CV&#8217;s to get the lights operating to your choice &#8211; its not hard, but if you take your time it&#8217;ll be a worthwhile completed exercise.<br />Good luck<br />Ian (Aus)</p>
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