https://blog.model-train-help.com/2009/11/loop-connections.html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=loop-connections Model railroads and model trains Fri, 23 Nov 2012 00:13:53 +0000 hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.9.4 https://blog.model-train-help.com/2009/11/loop-connections.html#comment-539 Mon, 23 Nov 2009 11:05:17 +0000 http://68.171.208.138/~blogmode/2009/11/loop-connections.html#comment-539 The AR1 is just what you need for DCC, but for straight DC it isn’t much help. For straight DC you have to isolate the loop and put a polarity reversing switch in. This is best done with the turnout so that the loop is always at the same polarity as the mainline beyond the turnout. You have to stop your trains to reverse the polarity, but you have to stop anyway so that your brakeman can throw the switch, right?
There are several books out there that show you how to wire reversing loops and wyes for DC operation.

]]> https://blog.model-train-help.com/2009/11/loop-connections.html#comment-530 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 18:40:19 +0000 http://68.171.208.138/~blogmode/2009/11/loop-connections.html#comment-530 Digitrax sells and auto reverse loop that does all the work for you. Its called an (AR1) for under $30.00 and can also be found on ebay for less. It is worth it so you dont have to go thru all the switching of power etc. It comes with detailed instructions.

]]> https://blog.model-train-help.com/2009/11/loop-connections.html#comment-529 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 15:34:38 +0000 http://68.171.208.138/~blogmode/2009/11/loop-connections.html#comment-529 You should be able to ballast EZ track using the same step-by-step methods as for track layed on cork. The glue mixture I use is 50/50. However, I have found that white glue such as Elmer’s, dries clear. I’ve had yellow glue leave a yellow cast on ballast which doesn’t look right.

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