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	Comments on: Model Train Tips	</title>
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	<description>Model railroads and model trains</description>
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		<title>
		By: Anonymous		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2012/01/model-train-tips.html#comment-1203</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Anonymous]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 11 Jan 2012 16:00:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://68.171.208.138/~blogmode/2012/01/model-train-tips.html#comment-1203</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Let&#039;s face it, no one wants to have to dismantle their layout after all of the hard work put into it. I once read a statistic that the average family moves every seven years. If that is true, then making your layout modular will allow you to move it easier. My first HO layout was a 4x8, and when I moved away from my parents, I sold the layout. Unfortunately, I had to cut it in two to remove it from my parents basement. The layout I have now, and have had for the last 20 years, is built on modules. Some sections are 20&quot; deep X 6&#039; long, others 22&quot; deep X 5&#039; or 4&#039;, whatever it takes to fit them together. They have removable legs, and the top level is chest-high (about 4.5&#039;)  for better viewing. The lower level is 18&quot; lower. All sections are flat, the surface material is made of Homosote (I hope I spelled it right). That is a soft, somewhat flexible 1/2&quot; thick (comes in 4X8 sheets), light weight material. I only have to press track nails to attach track, no hammering needed. At this time, the lower level only serves as a storage shelf, waiting for a future helix. It is best to have a layer of plywood under the Homosote, for strength, to prevent warping. My friend calls my layout &quot;editable&quot; because I don&#039;t glue down the ballast, I only  spread it out onto the tracks, I don&#039;t even use cork roadbed, I feel that it is too thick. As long as I don&#039;t move my layout, the ballast stays put. I can pull up sections of track, and re-lay it however I want too, and re-use the ballast. Of course, I have to re-wire the sections, and everything is block wired, with block detection circuits, I use a rechargeable soldering iron for that. The wiring runs under the modules, some places have connectors, others don&#039;t. I use Walther&#039;s scenic backdrops on the walls behind the modules. I hope to add mountains etc, at a later date, but for now, I can operate my trains on this 36&#039; long X 6&#039; wide layout, housed inside my attic, in a room I built for it. Though the isles are only 22&quot; wide, No duck-under needed, I enter the room from the center, via a drop-down ladder, and trap door.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Let&#8217;s face it, no one wants to have to dismantle their layout after all of the hard work put into it. I once read a statistic that the average family moves every seven years. If that is true, then making your layout modular will allow you to move it easier. My first HO layout was a 4&#215;8, and when I moved away from my parents, I sold the layout. Unfortunately, I had to cut it in two to remove it from my parents basement. The layout I have now, and have had for the last 20 years, is built on modules. Some sections are 20&#8243; deep X 6&#8242; long, others 22&#8243; deep X 5&#8242; or 4&#8242;, whatever it takes to fit them together. They have removable legs, and the top level is chest-high (about 4.5&#8242;)  for better viewing. The lower level is 18&#8243; lower. All sections are flat, the surface material is made of Homosote (I hope I spelled it right). That is a soft, somewhat flexible 1/2&#8243; thick (comes in 4X8 sheets), light weight material. I only have to press track nails to attach track, no hammering needed. At this time, the lower level only serves as a storage shelf, waiting for a future helix. It is best to have a layer of plywood under the Homosote, for strength, to prevent warping. My friend calls my layout &#8220;editable&#8221; because I don&#8217;t glue down the ballast, I only  spread it out onto the tracks, I don&#8217;t even use cork roadbed, I feel that it is too thick. As long as I don&#8217;t move my layout, the ballast stays put. I can pull up sections of track, and re-lay it however I want too, and re-use the ballast. Of course, I have to re-wire the sections, and everything is block wired, with block detection circuits, I use a rechargeable soldering iron for that. The wiring runs under the modules, some places have connectors, others don&#8217;t. I use Walther&#8217;s scenic backdrops on the walls behind the modules. I hope to add mountains etc, at a later date, but for now, I can operate my trains on this 36&#8242; long X 6&#8242; wide layout, housed inside my attic, in a room I built for it. Though the isles are only 22&#8243; wide, No duck-under needed, I enter the room from the center, via a drop-down ladder, and trap door.</p>
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		<title>
		By: Gary		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2012/01/model-train-tips.html#comment-1201</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Gary]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 11 Jan 2012 10:02:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://68.171.208.138/~blogmode/2012/01/model-train-tips.html#comment-1201</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Hi all. My name is Gary. I live in the north west of New South Wales, Australia. I have a shed where I do quite a few projects. Mostly woodworking. So I have to store mt tools somewhere. I Built a bench that is 1200mm (4ft) high and 600mm (2 foot)Wide. It is 5 meters long,(15ft) plus the 1200mm (4 ft) turnaround at each end. As it is a bit high, to reach the back of the turnarounds, I have a removable cut-out center, round so I can put it back in any position to change the visible scenery. or I stand on a 250mm (10inch) wooden step that I can scoot around the wooden floor. the 1200mm (4ft) height of the bench is kind on my back too.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi all. My name is Gary. I live in the north west of New South Wales, Australia. I have a shed where I do quite a few projects. Mostly woodworking. So I have to store mt tools somewhere. I Built a bench that is 1200mm (4ft) high and 600mm (2 foot)Wide. It is 5 meters long,(15ft) plus the 1200mm (4 ft) turnaround at each end. As it is a bit high, to reach the back of the turnarounds, I have a removable cut-out center, round so I can put it back in any position to change the visible scenery. or I stand on a 250mm (10inch) wooden step that I can scoot around the wooden floor. the 1200mm (4ft) height of the bench is kind on my back too.</p>
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