Comments on: Tips For Soldering Track https://blog.model-train-help.com/2012/11/tips-for-soldering-track.html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=tips-for-soldering-track Model railroads and model trains Fri, 23 Nov 2012 00:01:13 +0000 hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.9.4 By: Stuart Bourn https://blog.model-train-help.com/2012/11/tips-for-soldering-track.html#comment-2878 Fri, 23 Nov 2012 00:01:13 +0000 http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=2423#comment-2878 In reply to Paul Milewski.

To avoid damage to sleepers from too much heat, it is best to add heat sinks to the rails one inch from the joint. I have seen an expert use pairs of right angle pin-nose pliers with elastic bands across the handles to keep them in place.

Don’t solder every joint else buckling can occur with changes in humidity and temperature.

Solder flex track at one end before bending then try to end/join to the next section on a straight.

If running wires to each section of track for better power feeding, try soldering wires to the bottom face of 2 rail joiners before installing them. Run the wires through small holes in your board.

]]> By: Paul Milewski https://blog.model-train-help.com/2012/11/tips-for-soldering-track.html#comment-2877 Thu, 22 Nov 2012 22:59:01 +0000 http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=2423#comment-2877 Your tips for soldering tracks (or anything electrical, for that matter) are right on, except for tip #2. It’s not a good practice to use acid core solder or acid flux when soldering anything electrical. It’s much better to use rosin core solder or rosin flux. The acid can eat into the thin wires used and can also disrupt the electrical connection even though the solder connection looks good. The acid core solder and acid flux isn’t a problem with plumbing connections because of the massive amounts of copper or brass used compared to the relitively tiny amounts of copper or brass used in the model train hobby.

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