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	Comments on: Suitcase Connectors For Layout	</title>
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	<description>Model railroads and model trains</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Mon, 23 Dec 2013 22:54:20 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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	<item>
		<title>
		By: D. Moody		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2013/12/suitcase-connectors-for-layout.html#comment-5012</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[D. Moody]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 23 Dec 2013 22:54:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=2966#comment-5012</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[In reply to &lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.model-train-help.com/2013/12/suitcase-connectors-for-layout.html#comment-5011&quot;&gt;D. Moody&lt;/a&gt;.

I just started using Red and Blue suitcase connectors. They are the greatest thing since the electric toaster.  Red works well . Bus wire in top channel and 22 gauge feeder in bottom hole. I also use the blue ones, again Bus wire in top channel, and if you drill through bottom hole, you can run two ,22 gauge feeder wires, one from each direction and save some money. Both have yet to fail me.
Dennis]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>In reply to <a href="https://blog.model-train-help.com/2013/12/suitcase-connectors-for-layout.html#comment-5011">D. Moody</a>.</p>
<p>I just started using Red and Blue suitcase connectors. They are the greatest thing since the electric toaster.  Red works well . Bus wire in top channel and 22 gauge feeder in bottom hole. I also use the blue ones, again Bus wire in top channel, and if you drill through bottom hole, you can run two ,22 gauge feeder wires, one from each direction and save some money. Both have yet to fail me.<br />
Dennis</p>
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		<item>
		<title>
		By: D. Moody		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2013/12/suitcase-connectors-for-layout.html#comment-5011</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[D. Moody]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 23 Dec 2013 22:52:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=2966#comment-5011</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[I just started using Red and Blue suitcase connectors. They are the greatest thing since the electric toaster.  Red works well . Bus wire in top channel and 22 gauge feeder in bottom hole. I also use the blue ones, again Bus wire in top channel, and if you drill through bottom hole, you can run two ,22 gauge feeder wires, one from each direction and save some money. Both have yet to fail me.
Dennis]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I just started using Red and Blue suitcase connectors. They are the greatest thing since the electric toaster.  Red works well . Bus wire in top channel and 22 gauge feeder in bottom hole. I also use the blue ones, again Bus wire in top channel, and if you drill through bottom hole, you can run two ,22 gauge feeder wires, one from each direction and save some money. Both have yet to fail me.<br />
Dennis</p>
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		<item>
		<title>
		By: Newman Atkinson		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2013/12/suitcase-connectors-for-layout.html#comment-4944</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Newman Atkinson]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 17 Dec 2013 05:15:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=2966#comment-4944</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[I am running #16 guage trailer wire for my bus feeds under the rails and you can get the wires in various colors in 100 foot rolls.    So far so good with DCC and I am feeding all the way around the garage with no drop in power so far through 200 feet of track.   I am using short house phone wire  (solid) for my drops every 4 to 8 feet apart and soldiered  them to the connectors (basically the same as feeding to each modular ensuring I have drops installed both sides of switches and in between switches to prevent power loss.   I do not soldier direct to the rails unless I just have too.
Newman]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I am running #16 guage trailer wire for my bus feeds under the rails and you can get the wires in various colors in 100 foot rolls.    So far so good with DCC and I am feeding all the way around the garage with no drop in power so far through 200 feet of track.   I am using short house phone wire  (solid) for my drops every 4 to 8 feet apart and soldiered  them to the connectors (basically the same as feeding to each modular ensuring I have drops installed both sides of switches and in between switches to prevent power loss.   I do not soldier direct to the rails unless I just have too.<br />
Newman</p>
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		<title>
		By: Howard		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2013/12/suitcase-connectors-for-layout.html#comment-4943</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Howard]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 17 Dec 2013 04:05:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=2966#comment-4943</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Thanks guys for all of your comments.  I will have some runs that are over 50 ft., so it looks like
using 12 for the bus wires was the right decision.  
Appreciate it.
Howard]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks guys for all of your comments.  I will have some runs that are over 50 ft., so it looks like<br />
using 12 for the bus wires was the right decision.<br />
Appreciate it.<br />
Howard</p>
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		<title>
		By: John198		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2013/12/suitcase-connectors-for-layout.html#comment-4939</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[John198]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 16 Dec 2013 23:59:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=2966#comment-4939</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Unless you have a very large layout, I would recommend #14 for the bus wire.  #14 is OK for a run of up to 50ft and 5 amps.  If you have a greater run or will use more than 5 amps then go for #12.  If you go for the #12 then you will need the brown connector, but will need to increase the size of the feeder wire to #18.   As Grand Pere said, the red connector is the one to use - from Micro Mark (#14 bus and #22).  No need to buy the special crimper tool ($USD80) - a wide jawed pair of pliers does the trickI reckon they are the greatest invention since sliced bread!  Just a word of warning, be methodical when you install them i.e. the correct colour feeder on the correct colour bus wire - I have had to redo the connection more than once after being in a hurry to get a section done!]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Unless you have a very large layout, I would recommend #14 for the bus wire.  #14 is OK for a run of up to 50ft and 5 amps.  If you have a greater run or will use more than 5 amps then go for #12.  If you go for the #12 then you will need the brown connector, but will need to increase the size of the feeder wire to #18.   As Grand Pere said, the red connector is the one to use &#8211; from Micro Mark (#14 bus and #22).  No need to buy the special crimper tool ($USD80) &#8211; a wide jawed pair of pliers does the trickI reckon they are the greatest invention since sliced bread!  Just a word of warning, be methodical when you install them i.e. the correct colour feeder on the correct colour bus wire &#8211; I have had to redo the connection more than once after being in a hurry to get a section done!</p>
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		<title>
		By: Joe		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2013/12/suitcase-connectors-for-layout.html#comment-4937</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Joe]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 16 Dec 2013 22:55:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=2966#comment-4937</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[I use common wire nuts quite frequently. It facilitates adding connections, temporary disconnects and rearranging the wiring.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I use common wire nuts quite frequently. It facilitates adding connections, temporary disconnects and rearranging the wiring.</p>
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		<title>
		By: milton robinson		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2013/12/suitcase-connectors-for-layout.html#comment-4929</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[milton robinson]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 15 Dec 2013 06:55:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=2966#comment-4929</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[I also believe suitcase connectors are great and have a lot of advantages.  Suggest using the same color for bus wiring, another for feeder wires, and a third for accessories. Keeps the confusion to a minimum.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I also believe suitcase connectors are great and have a lot of advantages.  Suggest using the same color for bus wiring, another for feeder wires, and a third for accessories. Keeps the confusion to a minimum.</p>
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		<title>
		By: Grand Pere Marquette		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2013/12/suitcase-connectors-for-layout.html#comment-4926</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Grand Pere Marquette]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 14 Dec 2013 01:28:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=2966#comment-4926</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Howard,
I just started using suitcase connectors, and I think they are great.  Go to MicroMark.com to get the exact specifications on wire size.  As I remember, if you want to use #12 bus wire, you will need the brown connectors, but you will have to move up to #18 feeder wires because of the way the suitcase pairings are sized.  If you want to use #22 feeders, you should use the red suitcases but you would have to reduce the bus to #14.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Howard,<br />
I just started using suitcase connectors, and I think they are great.  Go to MicroMark.com to get the exact specifications on wire size.  As I remember, if you want to use #12 bus wire, you will need the brown connectors, but you will have to move up to #18 feeder wires because of the way the suitcase pairings are sized.  If you want to use #22 feeders, you should use the red suitcases but you would have to reduce the bus to #14.</p>
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