Comments on: Tips to Avoid Model Train Derailments https://blog.model-train-help.com/2014/03/tips-to-avoid-model-train-derailments-2.html?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=tips-to-avoid-model-train-derailments-2 Model railroads and model trains Mon, 14 Apr 2014 08:09:46 +0000 hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.9.4 By: Frank Bushnell https://blog.model-train-help.com/2014/03/tips-to-avoid-model-train-derailments-2.html#comment-5515 Mon, 14 Apr 2014 08:09:46 +0000 http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=3097#comment-5515 Worth mentioning: make sure ballast is not fouling the inside surface of the rails or getting between switch point rails.

]]> By: Ethan Morris https://blog.model-train-help.com/2014/03/tips-to-avoid-model-train-derailments-2.html#comment-5409 Tue, 01 Apr 2014 10:30:31 +0000 http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=3097#comment-5409 This is so helpful, Thanks loads! My locomotives do this quite often and these tips are so useful!!!!
Thanks

]]> By: Mike Lee https://blog.model-train-help.com/2014/03/tips-to-avoid-model-train-derailments-2.html#comment-5359 Thu, 27 Mar 2014 00:11:41 +0000 http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=3097#comment-5359 the first comment is good. follow that. Also, look at the flange height for each wheel. if the flange is too deep the flange will ride up on the spike or plastic that holds the rail and cause derailment. I have an Atlas Kato N scale SD 9 that as I ran it slow it derailed at the same place at the start of a curve. If I ran it fast it would make it through OK. All my other loco had no problem. I sanded the flange down on the center wheel and that fixed the problem.

Good luck,

Mike Lee

]]> By: Byron MacDonald https://blog.model-train-help.com/2014/03/tips-to-avoid-model-train-derailments-2.html#comment-5340 Tue, 25 Mar 2014 04:09:18 +0000 http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=3097#comment-5340 In regards to lubricating wheels, bearings, etc., I have a suggestion. In the past I worked in the high tech lubricants industry. While many use light duty or sewing machine type oil for hobby applications, these lubes tend to attract dust and dirt as they dry. WD40 is also very bad for this issue. However, there are 2 options that work extremely well. MPC LUBRICANTS, make specialty lubricants for the US military, heavy industry and auto racing and will outperform EVERYTHING else on the market. BTW, I don’t work for them and I’m not self promoting.
FP-10 firearms lube doesn’t dry out, removes dirt from mechanisms while in use and is virtually frictionless which makes everything go faster, last longer and is also pretty cheap. For similar use, and an even lighter formulation, which also has the above capabilities and includes a moisture remover function is MO-10, MOIST OUT demoisturant lube. Either of these will make a noticeable improvement in speed and reliability and since they are heat activated, the hotter things get, the better they work. Standard lubes run away from heat and MPC lubes are attracted to heat and attack hot spots and cool things down. Also work amazing in RC drift/racing cars, my other hobby. Hope this is helpful.

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