Comments on: Kadee Coupler Uncoupling Problem

By: Timothy Cover

Timothy Cover — Tue, 31 Oct 2017 22:50:16 +0000

I had the same problem with the cars coming apart.

I would check where at on the track, that they came apart at.

The switches, the pin wire of the couplers would hit, Bend the pin wire up on the

cars. That solved that problem.

Next when the train is going around on the Layout, Check to see if there is any uneven

track spots, like Rail joints or on the Grades and wherever there is any Uneven track

spots.

I also used Kadee couplers #118 SF. They are all metal and they do work, Good.

Also get a Height Gage too check Your coupler Height.

Tim Happy Modeling

By: KiwiJohn

KiwiJohn — Tue, 25 Oct 2016 05:42:09 +0000

I enjoyed reading this string as I have just designed and built a specialist “shunting yard” layout which has a long head shunt with 2nd radius curves and then 15 switches or points in to the individual sidings. i chose Kadee style couplers and installed them on my shunter ( a Class 08 ) and all the lead wagons of a set of cars. My problem seems to be that I can unhook over the delayed action magnets but when I push back through the curve and then the points to the sidings the hard right turn causes the hooks to re-engage and therefore are connected again. It could be due to the fact that the Class 08 has a rigid coupler system rather than the ones that move with the bogies on the larger locomotives.

Any experience here anyone can offer would be welcomed

Also when using the Kadee couplers suitable for the NEM pocket application how does one adjust the height?

By: Norm

Norm — Wed, 28 Jan 2015 22:18:42 +0000

In reply to Robert Morey. Get yourself a Kaydee height gauge ,solves all problems height wise

By: Newman Atkinson

Newman Atkinson — Wed, 28 Jan 2015 02:30:52 +0000

Your couplers can all be at the right height but many cases the the trip pin will drag a rail of a switch even if you set it with a gauge. I set the trip wire to curve up a little so that any rail it might come in contact with will just lift over the touching rail.
My longer cars I have gone to the Kadee 118 double shelf couplers as those couplers really stay together. long passenger and 85 foot flat and auto box cars including Walther autoracks will stay together. If you are running on changing grades or on an older modular layout the module will droop between the legs and a standard Kadee # 5 will walk out of each other as they cross from module to module. Kadee 118 or 188 wisker couplers are a positive lock and you need a magnet to release them or a coupling pin tool. They really hold Other brands of shelf couplers look good but do not actually work I am changing grades and turns in turns too. from Newman

By: Don

Don — Thu, 22 Jan 2015 07:44:42 +0000

It could also be that the tiny springs in the couplers have fallen out.

By: David Krause

David Krause — Thu, 22 Jan 2015 05:47:14 +0000

In reply to Ron Scannell.

I not very experienced yet, but trip pins can catch on turnouts and result in uncoupling and derailing…bending the trip pins a little to clear the turnouts did the job. Special trip pin pliers are great for this job.
Also experienced was a track gauge issue. HO Flex-track used in a curve would not hold the gauge at a rail jointer. Since gauge became slightly narrower at the rail joint this caused the car to raise slightly and resulted in uncoupling. This has not been fixed yet, but the solution planned is to uninstall the track, solder the rail joiner while that tiny section of track is straight, then re-install the track.

By: Bill Anderson

Bill Anderson — Wed, 21 Jan 2015 23:47:19 +0000

Something not mentioned in these responses is that in model trains, unlike the prototype, the couplers rather than clothes lining under stress, will slip either up or down and disengage. The primary way to remedy this problem is to assure that the coupler boxes do not allow the coupler to droop when slack. The cure for drooping couplers is generally a thin shim placed under the coupler shank where it exits the box. Another problem I have experienced is slack in a train where it passes over a magnet, such as at the bottom of a grade. Here, the solution will be customized. .

By: Gerry Keffer

Gerry Keffer — Wed, 21 Jan 2015 18:12:46 +0000

It could be the couplers height is misaligned but it could also be that the train is too long (too many cars) or that the cars themselves are either too light or too heavy. If I recollect the cars should way about 4 ounces; less and they’re suseptible to any and all bumps in the track and hop around, more and they simply pull apart.

By: anselmo

anselmo — Wed, 21 Jan 2015 13:18:43 +0000

Hi Anthony, your problem is more common than you may think. Almost 100% of the answer from other members mentions the correctness of the coupler height as the cause and solution. This is true, of course, but, believe me, there are two other big causes: small humps in the layout may be the cause, specially with long passenger cars, to “bend” at that point causing the uncoupling. I had this in my own layout and had to correct them to almost eliminate this cause. Note that it is almost impossible to build a perfect leveled layout at once. Also, even the track contraction/compression due to temperature changes may cause the perfect leveled track to creat small “humps”, almost imperceptible. Look to them carefully.
The other big cause is the overhang of the car ends in small radius curves. Look carefully as your train is rolling and stop it at once when you notice the uncoupling. Look if it happens in a curve, even in a switch. Gently roll the two uncoupled cars by hand.and see the results.

Try to use same type of coupler in all your locos and cars (I decided to only use kadee and nothing else. In new locos I trow all McHenry couplers in to the trash can imediately after opening the box.!

Hope I could help. Enjoy the hobby!

By: Jerry Moyers

Jerry Moyers — Wed, 21 Jan 2015 04:46:08 +0000

It sounds like coupler height mismatch. Purchase a coupler height cage and check and correct
as necessary.

By: Ron Scannell

Ron Scannell — Wed, 21 Jan 2015 02:09:34 +0000

Make sure that the couplers are at the same heoght. Get a Kadee coupler height guage. You can adjust tne height with Kadee washers. Also, make sure that the trip pins are not catching on turnouts.

By: rex fowler

rex fowler — Wed, 21 Jan 2015 01:02:45 +0000

Almost for sure the coupler heights are at fault. Make sure you use a coupler height gage and set the waggons etc on a piece of track which you can look at eye level to see how the couplings line up with each other. To lower a coupling put a bit of packing underneath the coupler box, or you can buy offset couplers which have the coupling head above or below the centre of the shaft. If you wish to raise the coupling carve away a little of the floor until the couplings align.
I am probably telling you “howto suck eggs” but that is what I do anyhow.