Comments on: Fixing A Track Power Problem

By: Newman Atkinson

Newman Atkinson — Wed, 02 Sep 2015 03:01:28 +0000

In reply to Newman Atkinson. I just was thinking that is this any engine or all the engines giving you this trouble? Newman

By: norman h. Riley

norman h. Riley — Wed, 26 Aug 2015 02:05:11 +0000

A Lot Of Love posted here in the comments. I Am So Very Proud of the way you help each other. You are an Example of How The World Should Work, Nothing But Peace and Love.

By: willkiddjr

willkiddjr — Sun, 09 Aug 2015 06:30:25 +0000

MAKE A SECTION OF TRACK SEPARATE FROM YOUR MAIN TRACK AND WIRE IT DIRECT FROM YOUR POWER SUPPLY AND TEST YOUR TRAINS ON IT.FOR YOUR MAIN TRACK WIRING, CONNECT POWER WIRES TO YOUR TRACK EVERY 4 FEET OR SO, IN PARALLEL.

By: Toni Olivar

Toni Olivar — Wed, 05 Aug 2015 23:03:49 +0000

First off, there is no need to be embarrassed for asking questions or asking for help. We were all new to this hobby at one time or another.
Remember: “The only really stupid question is one that was not asked.”

Alright. Since your train ran on the layout before you glued down your ballast, I would do as Mr. Chisek suggested of using a Scott-Brite pad or a track eraser and clean the tops and insides of your tracks, and I would add to that by cleaning your engine’s wheels as well. Also check for any ballast that may have fallen into the areas of the turnout where track rails meet, and make sure they are clear of ballast or other garbage.

If that does not solve our problem, then I would check the following: Make sure your power pack is plugged into a working power mains. and disconnected from your layout. Turn the power pack on and check to see that it is working. I Suggest that you get a basic multi-meter and set it for 20 volt range and measure the voltage output of your power pack. For “HO” model engines, your power pack should be putting out about 12 volts D.C., +/- 2 volts.

If that checks out okay then reconnect the power pack to your layout’s track. Turn your power pack on and check for any wires that are very hot or burning/melting wire insulation, or your power pack humming loudly or physically REAL hot. if so, TURN POWER OFF! You have a short somewhere. Disconnect your power pack and with your multi-meter set for continuity or on “resistance” scale, check for shorts across your main track rails. Be sure that your branch line and siding tracks are not connected to the main line track that you are testing. If your meter reads “0.o0” or you hear a buzzing sound from the meter’s continuity setting, you have a short. Locate and fix it. If things are okay, then check your sidings and branch line for possible shorts. If things check out okay there, then check the wires from your power pack to your turnout switch control board and from there to your layout. Check for any loose wires or wires that are not suppose to be connected.

If you do not find and solve your problem after checking what I suggested, then the problem lies with your engine or your rolling stock. Your engine may have an open or disconnected wire or you have a short across your engine’s wheels or one of your cars may be shorting your tracks. Your local hobby shop, that has a model train department, maybe able to check out your engine and/or cars for a small fee.

By: Murray

Murray — Wed, 05 Aug 2015 18:47:11 +0000

Disconnect and test the resistance of each individual feed wire. They both should have the same resistance.

By: donj1044

donj1044 — Wed, 05 Aug 2015 11:32:30 +0000

There has been some good ideas for Josh and his problem. I would like to “hear” see what the trouble was with the track power problem.
To see what Josh actually did to correct the trouble.
Josh, I believe, should find other modelers in his area of living He could attend a few meetings/ sessions so he can learn first hand. It may mean a bit of traveling but he could come home with a wealth of knowledge from that meeting.

By: Chuck

Chuck — Wed, 05 Aug 2015 04:25:10 +0000

Hi Josh. Don’t know the type of power pack you have, mine has a
Reset button that will pop out if the track gets shorted. And needs reset. Some times it get over looked. Welcome to the hobby Josh
I’m sure once your up and running you’ll lobe it

By: BRIAN

BRIAN — Wed, 05 Aug 2015 02:49:55 +0000

Hi Josh I solder every dropper to the track I don’t rely on the joiners for contact they can fail.–I have never had a problem doing it this way

By: michel phlippe pitman

michel phlippe pitman — Tue, 04 Aug 2015 23:17:42 +0000

It could very well be the glue …. All the above is great counsel .. MP

By: Ray LaVigne

Ray LaVigne — Thu, 23 Jul 2015 21:30:31 +0000

In reply to wayne snyder. Yeah, that is what I was going to suggest - use a volt meter perhaps start with the locomotive then go from power pack to leads then along track. Somewhere you may have mixed positive and negative so your track is neutralized from power. Is your track continuous or in zones with insulating connectors?

By: Newman Atkinson

Newman Atkinson — Thu, 23 Jul 2015 14:50:17 +0000

Josh, Easy to check to see if there is power. Disconnect from your track leads temporary. Put 2 new leads on and touch them to each of the 2 rails You should get power and your engine should run. Then like everyone says you may have got glue in your connectors at the rail, either that or the wire has broke from the connector at the rail. Prove it by the above method. Then check to see which wire broke or got glue in it by metering the wire lead at the transformer and to each rail to determine which connector is not working. Suggest doing this without the transformer connected and checking with the OHMs setting.
As you lay your track I suggest that you run a pair of buss wires under your layout and using phone wire hook up drops every 4 to 8 feet apart. This gives you several connections to the rails and it keeps from loosing power the farther away from your power source you get. Your buss wires should be NO. 16 or heavier. I use stranded trailer wire. The phone wire for the drops from the rails to the buss wire are short enough that heavy wire is not required,
If using only one connection to your rails, the more track you have the more connectors you have and the more power drop you have. If going through switches you can loose even more.
from Newman

By: Lucian

Lucian — Thu, 23 Jul 2015 06:52:12 +0000

Hi Josh, we all had tons of problems, don’t worry.

I am thinking that you might have some glue between the rail sleepers and the rails. In this case solder the rails together just a little bit.

Also you can check if the glue didn’t somehow separate the wires from the track when it hardened. In this case try making a new connection (again solder).

One other thing, if you are on DCC, check if the power track has a condenser in it, this will block the dcc signal. If this is the case remove the condenser.

Good luck,
Lucian