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	<title>
	Comments on: Problems Lining Up Track	</title>
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	<description>Model railroads and model trains</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Wed, 25 May 2016 02:08:54 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>
		By: Newman Atkinson		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2016/05/problems-lining-up-track.html#comment-13602</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Newman Atkinson]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 25 May 2016 02:08:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=4081#comment-13602</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[David,
   I made a radius stick and it has a mount board that screws down to the table .    I use a yard stick mounted at the radius point and a pencil at the mark I want on the plywood for the center of the road bed.   Works well for laying flex track.   If you are using sectional track set the measuring tool to a fixed set of sectional track and them place that radius on as I said for the flex track
If you need longer than a yard stick get a four footer or make a measuring stick long enough.

Since my layout sections are like modular this measuring stick will sometimes have it&#039;s radius point off the table.  That is why you have a mounting stick to hold the radius point.   Also while you are working these marks   from a straight section to the radius curve you want track to blend into the radius and not to suddenly make the radius.   That is like making a turn in your car and you jerk the steering wheel.   By blending into the curve  it makes a smooth transition.    Watch a Lionel train run around a sectional track.   It jerks into the curve.   from   Newman Atkinson]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>David,<br />
   I made a radius stick and it has a mount board that screws down to the table .    I use a yard stick mounted at the radius point and a pencil at the mark I want on the plywood for the center of the road bed.   Works well for laying flex track.   If you are using sectional track set the measuring tool to a fixed set of sectional track and them place that radius on as I said for the flex track<br />
If you need longer than a yard stick get a four footer or make a measuring stick long enough.</p>
<p>Since my layout sections are like modular this measuring stick will sometimes have it&#8217;s radius point off the table.  That is why you have a mounting stick to hold the radius point.   Also while you are working these marks   from a straight section to the radius curve you want track to blend into the radius and not to suddenly make the radius.   That is like making a turn in your car and you jerk the steering wheel.   By blending into the curve  it makes a smooth transition.    Watch a Lionel train run around a sectional track.   It jerks into the curve.   from   Newman Atkinson</p>
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		<title>
		By: Frank B		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2016/05/problems-lining-up-track.html#comment-13584</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Frank B]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 May 2016 03:42:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=4081#comment-13584</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[I am not experienced in using cork roadbed, but I would guess that by temporarily laying the track in its intended place first, then drawing a pencil line along just outside the ties, you would have a sufficiently accurate guideline.   If it will eventually be covered by ballast, perfectly accuracy is not required.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I am not experienced in using cork roadbed, but I would guess that by temporarily laying the track in its intended place first, then drawing a pencil line along just outside the ties, you would have a sufficiently accurate guideline.   If it will eventually be covered by ballast, perfectly accuracy is not required.</p>
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		<item>
		<title>
		By: Ken Weidner		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2016/05/problems-lining-up-track.html#comment-13581</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Ken Weidner]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 May 2016 03:13:55 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=4081#comment-13581</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[I use a layer of Homasote on top of 1/2 ply for my table tops. It makes spiking, nails, etc, easier. It&#039;s heavier, but it is nothing like working with glue and plywood. I also use cork in my staging tracks and some sidings (because I got a bunch of it in a lot of other stuff at an auction).
I pin through the roadbed (could be done with cork too), using those tall T-shaped foam/craft pins. I push the pins through the roadbed before it goes down, it is easy to hit the center of the track center line (Sharpie® or other permanent marker).
But enough about me; you said you were laying cork on plywood. When I&#039;ve done that before, the cork roadbed splits down the middle, and you reverse the two halves to make a roadbed, so you are only lining up one &quot;half&quot; (or side) of the roadbed at a time. That should make hitting your mark easy enough (and glue to plywood should be easy-peasy).]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I use a layer of Homasote on top of 1/2 ply for my table tops. It makes spiking, nails, etc, easier. It&#8217;s heavier, but it is nothing like working with glue and plywood. I also use cork in my staging tracks and some sidings (because I got a bunch of it in a lot of other stuff at an auction).<br />
I pin through the roadbed (could be done with cork too), using those tall T-shaped foam/craft pins. I push the pins through the roadbed before it goes down, it is easy to hit the center of the track center line (Sharpie® or other permanent marker).<br />
But enough about me; you said you were laying cork on plywood. When I&#8217;ve done that before, the cork roadbed splits down the middle, and you reverse the two halves to make a roadbed, so you are only lining up one &#8220;half&#8221; (or side) of the roadbed at a time. That should make hitting your mark easy enough (and glue to plywood should be easy-peasy).</p>
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