Comments on: How To Resolve Rusted Track Problems

By: Lindsay Neil

Lindsay Neil — Sun, 17 Jul 2016 01:26:07 +0000

Hi, I use Triang trains with ‘Magnadhesion’, which increases their pulling power. I use track with galvanised steel rails, once made by Peco (Code SL100GS). I stocked up on it betting it would probably be taken off the market, which it eventually was.
This track never rusted in the 8 years I had my layout. Also, steel rails have a ‘natural’ grip about them, more than nickel silver.
On the rust, use fine sandpaper, at least 800 grit, wipe the rails with a dry cloth, then liberally spray ‘Electrolube’ or ‘Inox’ on a cloth and wipe over the rails. WD40 will do too, sparingly. Repeat every few months. You could try ‘Conducting Silver Paint’ from kemo-electronic.de/ on bad areas as a last resort.
And with the aircon, keep the vent closed to the outside.

By: Dave Ellis

Dave Ellis — Sat, 16 Jul 2016 21:02:47 +0000

I live in Scotland where it rains constantly, dampness and rust are a constant problem with anything
electrical. One product I have found invaluable is WD 40. I don’t know if it is available where you are but you can get it on the internet. It dissolves light rust if used on a soft cloth and leaves behind a film of conductive protection.

By: Paul Murchison

Paul Murchison — Sat, 16 Jul 2016 11:30:12 +0000

In reply to Sheldon Clark. Not using solder, just pure tin, like the lids (and sides) of Milo cans.

By: Sheldon Clark

Sheldon Clark — Thu, 14 Jul 2016 21:50:41 +0000

In reply to Trevor Davies. Leading to a lack of adhesion?

By: Sheldon Clark

Sheldon Clark — Thu, 14 Jul 2016 21:49:42 +0000

In reply to Paul Murchison. I'd have thought that "tinning" your track with solder would introduce a ridiculous level (pardon the pun) of unevenness, leading to very poor running / conductivity. If you're going down the road of coating your existing track, you might as well electro-plate it, but that could prove very expensive & would probably involve removing all non-metallic parts, e.g. sleepers; not very practical? Sounds like the most economical route would be to replace the track with non-ferrous or stainless steel (if available).

By: Dale

Dale — Thu, 14 Jul 2016 10:39:28 +0000

Thanks guys. Awesome answers. A big help.

By: Rich Neighbour

Rich Neighbour — Thu, 14 Jul 2016 06:35:34 +0000

Hi, you don’t mention size of layout (cost) but I would replace with nickel silver track do it bit by bit as your budget allows it’s same size here in uk. Think of it as a long term investment as it doesn’t rust just needs a cleaner once in a while.

By: Bill baxter

Bill baxter — Thu, 14 Jul 2016 00:46:54 +0000

In reply to Bill Holmwood. I have heard a lot of guys using transmission fluid. Bill

By: Henry G.

Henry G. — Thu, 14 Jul 2016 00:42:37 +0000

Hi Dale,
I see you’re having an overwhelming quantity of answers, most of the people try to help, some of us don’t know the correct answer.
I’m retired &I love trains but I have none, I’m living at the moment in Panama, Central America, as this country is very narrow in geographic terms oceans in both sides of it & I live 3 blocks from the Pacific, its terrible everything rusts up in matter of days.
The truth is this, once the rust attacks the steel, due to normal humidity in the air or by salty environment conditions (close to sea) you just CAN NOT take it away unless you damage the metal surface for ever, it don’t work that way.
If you use acids detergents, emeril cloth, scraping methods, nothing will help unless you remove enough material to truly get all the rust attacking particles out of the metal parts, doing this so you already have damaged the rail surfaces going under size on them.
Get different material rails or get on board power (I really think this is the best & ever lasting solution) any way if you don’t change the rail system (for different material) & you’re no running the trains often, the rust on the rails will build up & sooner than later you’ll run into bigger problems.
Humidity is a killer for steel, unless you can afford an humedifier 24/7 – 365.
Wish you the best

By: Paul Murchison

Paul Murchison — Wed, 13 Jul 2016 23:17:11 +0000

I’m in South East Queensland and I have bought a lot of second hand track and some is rusted. I am going to try re-tinning it. You can buy a tin ingot from the interwebs for about $10 (for 8 ounces). I guess you could apply it with a soldering iron as that is how you re-tin your soldering iron. You would need a hot iron and do it quickly so as not to melt the sleepers (ties). I’d planned to try it and if it destroys the track, I’ll probably stop and try something else :o)
If you try it first, let me know how it goes, I’ll let you know if I get around to it first.
Cheers.

By: Alex. Lafargue

Alex. Lafargue — Wed, 13 Jul 2016 15:28:12 +0000

In reply to L C.

…great comments / efforts to assist – in particular : (David Stokes / L.C.)
…my name is Alex – (Hello Dale)
…it seems as though your layout requires overall attention with the rails – just take a bit of time once a week and work on a section at a time
…you have been provided ‘excellent’ advise , now, you must work with the solution that works for you
…whatever you decide, I recommend that you consider to buy some plastic construction grade covering for your layout – (cover you layout when your not going to run trains for awhile and definitely be mindful when you keep the window open because the breeze will carry the issue right back to the tracks)
…do this once you’ve arrested the rust issues – it may seem laborious but I can attest that it works

By: Bill Holmwood

Bill Holmwood — Wed, 13 Jul 2016 13:03:50 +0000

In reply to Richard Walter. It's probably trial and error of all the suggestions here to ease your rust issues. An elderly friend of mine swears by automatic transmission fluid which is preventative and conductive. Good luck!