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	<title>
	Comments on: Atlas Turnout Wiring Problems	</title>
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	<description>Model railroads and model trains</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Tue, 09 May 2017 19:17:18 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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	<item>
		<title>
		By: Mike McGuire		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2017/04/atlas-turnout-wiring-problems.html#comment-18380</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Mike McGuire]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 09 May 2017 19:17:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=4426#comment-18380</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Try to find old telephone wire.  It will contain multiple, individual 18-20ga wires you can peel out.  If you have to strip off the ends, at that gauge, it&#039;s pretty easy (Henry&#039;s method works well..lol) using a small knife, etc.  newer &quot;CAT&quot; cable maybe be a bit thicker depending on it&#039;s intended use.   A good source for cheap cabling that you can tear up is monoprice.com.  Buy the cheapest you can find, there is no real difference in quality.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Try to find old telephone wire.  It will contain multiple, individual 18-20ga wires you can peel out.  If you have to strip off the ends, at that gauge, it&#8217;s pretty easy (Henry&#8217;s method works well..lol) using a small knife, etc.  newer &#8220;CAT&#8221; cable maybe be a bit thicker depending on it&#8217;s intended use.   A good source for cheap cabling that you can tear up is monoprice.com.  Buy the cheapest you can find, there is no real difference in quality.</p>
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		<item>
		<title>
		By: HENRY		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2017/04/atlas-turnout-wiring-problems.html#comment-18320</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[HENRY]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 04 May 2017 11:42:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=4426#comment-18320</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[In reply to &lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.model-train-help.com/2017/04/atlas-turnout-wiring-problems.html#comment-18260&quot;&gt;Randall Styx&lt;/a&gt;.

As a old time railroad hobbyist, I just put the end of the wire between my teeth and pull.  Works every time.. cheep to.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>In reply to <a href="https://blog.model-train-help.com/2017/04/atlas-turnout-wiring-problems.html#comment-18260">Randall Styx</a>.</p>
<p>As a old time railroad hobbyist, I just put the end of the wire between my teeth and pull.  Works every time.. cheep to.</p>
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		<item>
		<title>
		By: R. Olivarez		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2017/04/atlas-turnout-wiring-problems.html#comment-18266</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[R. Olivarez]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 29 Apr 2017 18:08:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=4426#comment-18266</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[The best way that I found for stripping the ends of really thin wire is to use the very tip of my soldering iron to melt down to the wire, a score line around the wire insulation,.  Then using my finger nails to gently pull or twist off the insulation from the melted area.  Then I generally tin the bare wire after cleaning my soldering iron&#039;s tip.

Warning, this method does not work with Teflon insulated wires.  
Remember to clean your soldering iron&#039;s tip after melting the wire insulaton.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The best way that I found for stripping the ends of really thin wire is to use the very tip of my soldering iron to melt down to the wire, a score line around the wire insulation,.  Then using my finger nails to gently pull or twist off the insulation from the melted area.  Then I generally tin the bare wire after cleaning my soldering iron&#8217;s tip.</p>
<p>Warning, this method does not work with Teflon insulated wires.<br />
Remember to clean your soldering iron&#8217;s tip after melting the wire insulaton.</p>
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			</item>
		<item>
		<title>
		By: Randall Styx		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2017/04/atlas-turnout-wiring-problems.html#comment-18260</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Randall Styx]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 29 Apr 2017 01:18:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=4426#comment-18260</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[A. Get a wire stripper that has an option for finer wire.
B. Get a nice sharp wire cutter and gently cut just into the insulation and pull. The cut in the insulation will start a tear in the insulation that will run through the rest of the insulation as you pull.
C. Depending on how your teeth are aligned, bite into the insulation and pull. You&#039;d be accomplishing the same as B, but with duller cutters. (You don&#039;t have to swallow the piece of insulation that comes off.)
D. Cut into the insulation with a sharp pocket or hobby knife and pull. You can cut into the insulation on multiple sides.
E. Shave the insulation off with a sharp knife like you might sharpen a pencil.
F. I don&#039;t have a True Track switch in front of me, but examine it. You might be able to replace all the finer wire and go directly to the connection points on the switch machine with the wire from the controller.
G. Get some connectors that don&#039;t require stripping (like those commonly used to add trailer wiring to the tail light circuits of an automobile).
H. Get a &quot;push in&quot; connector bar from an electronics store (also does not require stripping) or cannibalize an old computer or stereo.
I. Bend 1/16 inch of the wire back on itself to form a hook. Make a hook in the controller wire, Engage the hooks and solder. Cover the joint with electrician&#039;s tape.
J. Grab both wires with an unpainted jaw or pincer type paper clip. The clip will become part of the circuit.
K.Slice the wire lengthwise with a sharp hobby knife, starting where you want the wire to be bare and cutting toward the end of the wire. Fold the insulation back to bare the wire.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>A. Get a wire stripper that has an option for finer wire.<br />
B. Get a nice sharp wire cutter and gently cut just into the insulation and pull. The cut in the insulation will start a tear in the insulation that will run through the rest of the insulation as you pull.<br />
C. Depending on how your teeth are aligned, bite into the insulation and pull. You&#8217;d be accomplishing the same as B, but with duller cutters. (You don&#8217;t have to swallow the piece of insulation that comes off.)<br />
D. Cut into the insulation with a sharp pocket or hobby knife and pull. You can cut into the insulation on multiple sides.<br />
E. Shave the insulation off with a sharp knife like you might sharpen a pencil.<br />
F. I don&#8217;t have a True Track switch in front of me, but examine it. You might be able to replace all the finer wire and go directly to the connection points on the switch machine with the wire from the controller.<br />
G. Get some connectors that don&#8217;t require stripping (like those commonly used to add trailer wiring to the tail light circuits of an automobile).<br />
H. Get a &#8220;push in&#8221; connector bar from an electronics store (also does not require stripping) or cannibalize an old computer or stereo.<br />
I. Bend 1/16 inch of the wire back on itself to form a hook. Make a hook in the controller wire, Engage the hooks and solder. Cover the joint with electrician&#8217;s tape.<br />
J. Grab both wires with an unpainted jaw or pincer type paper clip. The clip will become part of the circuit.<br />
K.Slice the wire lengthwise with a sharp hobby knife, starting where you want the wire to be bare and cutting toward the end of the wire. Fold the insulation back to bare the wire.</p>
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