Comments on: Correct Weight Distribution to Increase Locomotive Pulling Power

By: Mr Chris Jordan

Mr Chris Jordan — Wed, 31 Oct 2018 12:20:24 +0000

There is a product on the market here in the UK that has a good self adhesive backing to various sizes of weights. I purchased some last year- but sadly the weights themselves do not have an identification name on them and the model shop I purchased them from has sadly closed down – No young person to take over the business- Arcadia Rail International Models -Railway Models & Accessories Mr Tim Housley owner may have stocks. he also has an Internet site kind regards Chris Aged(70) been doing railways since I was 5 years old.

By: Sheldon Clark

Sheldon Clark — Thu, 25 Oct 2018 16:06:45 +0000

Glue in fishing weights (“lead shot” – though I don’t think it’s actually lead nowadays – too poisonous) or shot supplied by gun shops for home filling shotgun cartridges.

By: Sheldon Clark

Sheldon Clark — Sun, 21 Oct 2018 23:29:29 +0000

In reply to Mark Cartwright. Do you clean off the toothpaste after use?

By: W Rusty Lane

W Rusty Lane — Sat, 20 Oct 2018 04:51:29 +0000

The best weights I´ve ever used was linoType; it comes in just the right size to add to any train. I simply glued them down on the inside chassis with some tacky glue. The weights work to bring the car weight to NMRA standards. It´s also good to have a digital scale to weigh each piece of rolling stock to get them to NMRA standards.

By: William Anderson

William Anderson — Tue, 16 Oct 2018 17:52:01 +0000

Not mentioned in previous comments is the use of led shot for weight. It is available at sporting goods shops in various sizes and is easy to glue into close spaces to properly distribute the weight as needed.

By: David STOKES

David STOKES — Mon, 15 Oct 2018 21:46:29 +0000

You don’t state whether you are having trouble with diesel or steam outline locos. Most of the above “cures” are directed to diesel locos. If adding weight to steam outline locos make sure it is balanced over the driving wheels because unbalancing the loco could make it an even weaker puller.

By: David STOKES

David STOKES — Mon, 15 Oct 2018 21:42:39 +0000

In reply to John Lebsanft. It is a proprietry liquid rubber product which is applied to the wheel treads. Care must be used in using it, but it works.

By: Richard B. Walter

Richard B. Walter — Mon, 15 Oct 2018 17:18:50 +0000

Micro-Mark, and others, sell a reamer that trues up the bearing surface of the truck sideframes. Most are not perfectly conical and drag on the pointed ends of the axels. You remove the wheel and replace it with the reamer, then twirl it between your fingers. You won’t believe how much plastic is removed. My personal experience is that it’ll allow train length to increase by 20%. Further, trucks operate best when the axle side play is about .015. Excess side movement will negatively impact performance.

By: Mark Cartwright

Mark Cartwright — Mon, 15 Oct 2018 14:07:55 +0000

I find myself in some disagreement with nearly every other Poster here.
First off, like UP and the BNSF, I suggest you look at the % they use for Grades as their maximum. I too use 1.5%. Too tight a radius also adds friction to your train. I don’t use Bullfrog Snot and have found myself removing and replacing wheels which sport traction tires. Since I run DCC with Sound in N Scale, weight and traction tires (dirt) can actually become an issue. The one Poster, I do agree with …Is keep your locomotives clean and free of debris. Plus…Go through them and file/sand any friction issues which are often found in even new locomotives. Remove all of the heavy caked in grease. I use a touch of light machine oil, and seldom any grease at all.
AFTER…all of the above have been accomplished and before you turn to adding weight. Smooth your rails and perhaps solder in between each joint using a template to keep even the inside rails joined up properly. Make sure your track is evenly laid that is flat…with no dips or bumps. I then take a Rifler File to file inside rails and check for smooth runs, in the same way John Allen did…not by an NMRA Gauge but by simply rolling a metal wheel truck over the track.
Ready for the Weights?
Tungsten not Lead. I measure them carefully per car but also per train. So the entire train has a Center of Gravity down the center axis of the entire train. I don’t just add a clump of weight but gradually increase the weight. Some MTL cars don’t need any or maybe just a bit. I also convert eventually to body mounted couplers and Fox Valley Metal Wheels…but I test these as well…As they are made on a big machine in China and are not alway perfect. One more issue to mention…The Driveline in your Locomotive may actually be working against itself. Watch it carefully and try to determine if it is kinking. Often the worm gear has burrs or berms (high spots) which are slowing it’s performance. The Idler gear too, may have a high spot on some of it’s teeth or not creviced enough for the opposing gear. I take nearly every one of my Locomotives a part when I first get it…Or simply run Tooth Paste through the gearing by hand and fingers. There are many forces acting upon a train. Such as even how the motors are skewed or woven with wire, along with the position/use of bearings and fly-wheels. One more which may not seem an issue…
Ever see a Locomotive wobble to and fro…?
The Wheels on many a Model Train are out of round. I have removed the wheel assembly and set it in a vice downed Dremel or other drill for it to spin. Then carefully perhaps with anther device, lightly touch the flange of the wheel with a flat file to see it if is round or to help make it so. Doesn’t take much so be patient. Then test the wheel/axle as it rolls down your 1.5% Grade. Does it want to roll straight down or turn off the Tracks?
Has such a near perfect steam locomotive ever been produced in N Scale? Yes, the More/Lik Steam Locomotives which is why they first sold for nearly $1500.

By: Joe deBy, Peterborough ON

Joe deBy, Peterborough ON — Mon, 15 Oct 2018 13:44:03 +0000

In reply to Ralph Cunningham. I solved this problem a great many years ago when coming at it in reverse. I'd built an all wood craftsman box car kit. When I realized that by using good trucks with metal wheels I didn't need heavy cars, out came the weights in rolling stock. I try to keep 40-foot cars to 65 grams, increasing by roughly 15 grams per scale 10 feet. Amazing results came from tiny 1-mousepower locos ever since.

By: David Broad

David Broad — Mon, 15 Oct 2018 09:31:53 +0000

I haven’t used Bullfrog Snot but I abandoned traction tyres because they make the track dirty so I guess the snot has the same issues.

I use lead, flashing from roofs, old lead water pipes melted down, old car wheel balance weights etc.
I hammer the flashing to compress it, and make moulds to melt the other lead into.
It is important to get the weight within the loco drive wheelbase on steam locos as two axles with 1kg each pull a lot better than one with 2kg. 4-4-0 and 4-6-0 chassis are particularly bad and lightening the front of one 4-6-0 actually made it pull better, Likewise getting the weight out from the back of 0-4-2T and 0-4-4T locos can improve haulage.

By: John Lebsanft

John Lebsanft — Mon, 15 Oct 2018 06:04:14 +0000

I ask, WHAT is bullfrog snot ? Have heard it mentioned but it has me intrigued.