Comments on: Trains Ran Well Before Ballasting

By: Morgan Bilbo, PRR fan

Morgan Bilbo, PRR fan — Wed, 01 May 2019 19:54:55 +0000

I’ve changed my strategy. I am using AWG 20 wire exclusively. I have a lot of it. A short feeder from the track to the buss. But. The buss is another AWG 20 wire from that short feeder all the way to a terminal block. That is a lot of wires going those blocks. (One block for one rail, the other rail has it’s own block. Then, from the terminal block to the command station is AWG 18 and that is less than a foot long. So, those individual wires carry the load. And it works. I test all track with 3 HF meters, an old MyCronta analog meter and a ? better quality meter. But the HF’s are free and that’s what counts. Turn the power on. Engine can be on the track standing or running or not. I take one meter and measure at one end of the layout, at the command station/which is in the middle, and at the other end of the layout. Repeat with as many meters as you wish. I measure Volts,DC and AC, the continuity and resistance. All I care is that the voltage reads the same. I don’t need accuracy, just make sure the track has the same power everywhere. I’m not sure whether to bother measuring amps is necessary. If that is a priority for you, then invest in a Ramp meter/$80. Or read up in the forums for ideas on that. Hope this is not too late. But might be helpful in some way. Or even if someone else has this question.

By: ROBERT SCHWORM

ROBERT SCHWORM — Sat, 16 Mar 2019 23:33:50 +0000

When running DCC, it is imperative that you install dropper wires on every piece of track and switch. I do not recommend soldering rail joiners if you ever hope to pick this track up some day, move it, or sell it. Do not ballast track for at least one full year until you have run and run and run ALL trains, carriages, heavy weights, etc over all your track and switches both directions many times. Then have a go at ballasting a section at a time. Once ballast is done, it pretty much is over. To take the track up now will almost ensure total destruction. I glue my foam sub roadbed to my green foam board base, then use very fine nails with small heads to pin the sleepers down thru these layers.Hobby foam adhesive releases very easily, should you ever have to pick up your rails, open up a tight curve, etc. Also build your benchwork in modules, bolted together, so someone can get it out some day.

By: Morgan Bilbo, PRR fan

Morgan Bilbo, PRR fan — Wed, 27 Feb 2019 21:06:45 +0000

I may input here, just a simple idea. The buss wire should be 14 to 16 gauge. Some extension cords are 16, but some are 18. I knew of one guy who used 18 gauge for feeders and buss. I would rather use 16 for the buss and either 20 or 22 gauge for feeders. That’s what I’m doing on a new shelf layout I’m working on right now. All the wire I’m using is what I had on hand/available. Avoiding purchase of new. But, be sure the wire is good. Copper. Stranded or solid – your choice. Some like solid, others like stranded. There are pros and cons about that, and IMHO it depends on what you like and are comfortable with. Stranded wire when soldered seems to work fine for me. i.e. Making sure the solder joint is solid, shiny and I actually grab and pull on each feeder as it’s installed. If any filing is required on the rail because of solder lumps, be careful there too. When soldering use the minimum amount of solder needed. Just be sure the connection is SOLID.

By: David Stokes

David Stokes — Wed, 27 Feb 2019 10:29:15 +0000

In reply to Phillip. Philip Strip the insulation off your old extension cords and use it for the main power feeds (or Bus feeds) under the layout if it is solid core. If the wire is multi cored (that is, not solid wire) leave the insulation on the individual wires but strip them into three separate ones. You can the buy 22 gauge hookup wire which is soldered to your rails fed down under the them through the base board and to the bus wires. Bigger is better when it comes to carrying electrical current, but above the base board you will need a little "invisibility" so smaller wires up there.

By: Phillip

Phillip — Tue, 19 Feb 2019 04:27:34 +0000

I was wondering if ordinary household power extension cord wire would be okay to wire up a HO model railway layout. I have plenty of 10amp to 15amp power extension cords in the shed, which would save on purchasing wiring from a hobby shop, or would it be too thick to use? Any ideas?

By: Geoff

Geoff — Sun, 17 Feb 2019 18:53:54 +0000

In reply to Peter Fasake. Basically you glue small stones around the sleepers to simulate the gravel used on the real thing. You can buy appropriately sized stone from your hobby store, or experiment with grit from a pet store.

By: Don Jennings

Don Jennings — Wed, 13 Feb 2019 14:59:52 +0000

go over the track with a cleaner or cleaning solution where you put the ballast. You may have gotten glue or paste on the rails.
that is all. BYE

By: Peter Bayley-Bligh

Peter Bayley-Bligh — Wed, 13 Feb 2019 08:49:59 +0000

In reply to Morgan Bilbo, PRR fan. From how you have described the effect on your finger I would think that you are not using acetone - it will dry your skin very very quickly.

By: Morgan Bilbo, PRR fan

Morgan Bilbo, PRR fan — Wed, 13 Feb 2019 01:50:56 +0000

The acetone I referred to is probably not acetone as you know it. Since it’s sold as nail polish remover, I doubt if its harmful. As I said, I don’t smell it and it sure don’t seem like alcohol. Regular nail polish remover has oil and stuff in it. This that I buy does not. Yes, don’t breath too much of it. And for gosh sakes, don’t drink it. LOL Use it with care, just as you would anything like it. I just don’t like oil/Wahl clipper, or bright boys and since this is about ballast. I’d rather try acetone than alcohol or other such. I avoid water and water base when I can. If you use Elmers for ballast, then you are bound to use water. And I don’t. So, please don’t get upset about my telling about acetone. I am not talking about the stuff at Ace or H-D or such.

By: Jan Persson

Jan Persson — Fri, 08 Feb 2019 21:40:28 +0000

I would solder a wire loop from track to track around the rail joiners. To me, this would not interfere with expansion and would make it easier if a section of track needed to be replaced !

By: Steve B.

Steve B. — Thu, 07 Feb 2019 04:25:54 +0000

I have never handled any acetone that doesn’t have a distinct odor. Acetone is used extensively to bond acrylic plastic and plastic models. Not all plastics will melt with it though, hence being in a plastic bottle. Acetone that I have purchased has always been in a metal can. Emory cloth works because of the grit that is glued to the surface. Grit grinds and comes loose. Use it enough and it will begin to enter your rolling stock and it will not be good, to say the least. A file creates filings of the material you are filing. In the case of filing track rails, the filings are conductive metals. you can use either if you do it away from the table and clean the track thoroughly before putting it back. Graphite is used in motor brushes so it is conductive depending on the purity. The graphite sold in powder form is usually sold as lubricant. the powder is messy and really will not remain where you want it.

By: Peter Fasake

Peter Fasake — Wed, 06 Feb 2019 15:14:06 +0000

What is track ballasting?
Thank you.
Pedro