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	<title>
	Comments on: Plywood or Foam Insulation Board?	</title>
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	<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2019/03/plywood-foam-insulation-board.html?utm_source=rss&#038;utm_medium=rss&#038;utm_campaign=plywood-foam-insulation-board</link>
	<description>Model railroads and model trains</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Sun, 02 Jan 2022 21:08:27 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>
		By: Nigel d Woodgate		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2019/03/plywood-foam-insulation-board.html#comment-56083</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Nigel d Woodgate]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 02 Jan 2022 21:08:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=5143#comment-56083</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[In reply to &lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.model-train-help.com/2019/03/plywood-foam-insulation-board.html#comment-28415&quot;&gt;George Kern&lt;/a&gt;.

Hi George

I want to keep the3/4 inch  plywood-and put 2 inch  foam board on top, how do you fit Peco point motors into the rail; though both plywood and foam board?

Thank you]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>In reply to <a href="https://blog.model-train-help.com/2019/03/plywood-foam-insulation-board.html#comment-28415">George Kern</a>.</p>
<p>Hi George</p>
<p>I want to keep the3/4 inch  plywood-and put 2 inch  foam board on top, how do you fit Peco point motors into the rail; though both plywood and foam board?</p>
<p>Thank you</p>
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		<title>
		By: Chris Manvell		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2019/03/plywood-foam-insulation-board.html#comment-28608</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Chris Manvell]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 27 Mar 2019 21:51:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=5143#comment-28608</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[My first layout (Z-Scale) was on 1cm MDF with 3mm cork tiles glued on top and a 181cm by 61cm open frame, 7.5sm high. There was no need for battens. The final weight of the layout was 20kg (including a fold-out control paned and thin ply covers) and it was used for exhibitions only. It worked really well but I won&#039;t do it again.
Having lost the ability to drive, my current idea is to build an 88cm x 50cm portable layout in an aluminium case. The baseboard is 1&quot; Kingspan (330gm) resting flush with the top of the bottom half of the 20cm high case. The z scale track was attached to the cork with office double-sided adhesive tape. Even though the cork was sealed with matt varnish this was a disaster. So, I&#039;m going to start over again with a stronger tape. You can see both layouts on my website.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>My first layout (Z-Scale) was on 1cm MDF with 3mm cork tiles glued on top and a 181cm by 61cm open frame, 7.5sm high. There was no need for battens. The final weight of the layout was 20kg (including a fold-out control paned and thin ply covers) and it was used for exhibitions only. It worked really well but I won&#8217;t do it again.<br />
Having lost the ability to drive, my current idea is to build an 88cm x 50cm portable layout in an aluminium case. The baseboard is 1&#8243; Kingspan (330gm) resting flush with the top of the bottom half of the 20cm high case. The z scale track was attached to the cork with office double-sided adhesive tape. Even though the cork was sealed with matt varnish this was a disaster. So, I&#8217;m going to start over again with a stronger tape. You can see both layouts on my website.</p>
<p><a href="https://blog.model-train-help.com/wp-content/comment-image/28608.jpg"><img src="https://blog.model-train-help.com/wp-content/comment-image/28608-tn.jpg"/></a></p>
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		<title>
		By: Steve B.		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2019/03/plywood-foam-insulation-board.html#comment-28606</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Steve B.]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 27 Mar 2019 21:21:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=5143#comment-28606</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[I wood suggest using 3/8 OSB sheet instead of 3/8 plywood. I is ridgid in 2 directions and is about 1/2 the cost.  OSB stands for Oriented Strand Board.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I wood suggest using 3/8 OSB sheet instead of 3/8 plywood. I is ridgid in 2 directions and is about 1/2 the cost.  OSB stands for Oriented Strand Board.</p>
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		<item>
		<title>
		By: Steve B.		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2019/03/plywood-foam-insulation-board.html#comment-28605</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Steve B.]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 27 Mar 2019 21:16:06 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=5143#comment-28605</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[In reply to &lt;a href=&quot;https://blog.model-train-help.com/2019/03/plywood-foam-insulation-board.html#comment-28439&quot;&gt;Robert Schworm&lt;/a&gt;.

Did you mean 1/2 inch plywood?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>In reply to <a href="https://blog.model-train-help.com/2019/03/plywood-foam-insulation-board.html#comment-28439">Robert Schworm</a>.</p>
<p>Did you mean 1/2 inch plywood?</p>
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		<title>
		By: James King		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2019/03/plywood-foam-insulation-board.html#comment-28599</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[James King]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 27 Mar 2019 17:31:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=5143#comment-28599</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[If you use the pink or blue foam make sure you reinforce the sides with wood. Foam does have a tendency to warp, as does wood. I suggest if you want to keep weight down, build an open frame to support the layout, cover with 1/4&quot; plywood subfloor and glue a base sheet of 2&quot; foam. Drilling for wiring is fairly easy and using the thicker foam allows you to cut away sections for lakes and rivers.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>If you use the pink or blue foam make sure you reinforce the sides with wood. Foam does have a tendency to warp, as does wood. I suggest if you want to keep weight down, build an open frame to support the layout, cover with 1/4&#8243; plywood subfloor and glue a base sheet of 2&#8243; foam. Drilling for wiring is fairly easy and using the thicker foam allows you to cut away sections for lakes and rivers.</p>
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		<title>
		By: Morgan Bilbo, PRR fan		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2019/03/plywood-foam-insulation-board.html#comment-28453</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Morgan Bilbo, PRR fan]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 20 Mar 2019 22:45:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=5143#comment-28453</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[IMHO neither is a preference. It depends on what others have suggested. An individual must decide for him/her self. There are advantages and disadvantages to foam as well as plywood. There is also steel. ?? A base of plywood can support foam or homasote or other materials. The foam in question must be the pink/Home-Depot/Owens Corning or blue/Lowes/DuPont. ?? Do not use the white/packing material. Most of the comments above are good, I am only helping out here.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>IMHO neither is a preference. It depends on what others have suggested. An individual must decide for him/her self. There are advantages and disadvantages to foam as well as plywood. There is also steel. ?? A base of plywood can support foam or homasote or other materials. The foam in question must be the pink/Home-Depot/Owens Corning or blue/Lowes/DuPont. ?? Do not use the white/packing material. Most of the comments above are good, I am only helping out here.</p>
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		<title>
		By: Steve Hubard		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2019/03/plywood-foam-insulation-board.html#comment-28449</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Steve Hubard]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 20 Mar 2019 20:28:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=5143#comment-28449</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[I prefer plywood and spline for sub roadbed. I am not fond of foam for laying track as it needs glued down and is a PITA to remove if required, not to mention messy. I also like nailing my track down just like the prototype does.  I plan on trying multiple scenery methods on my new layout I am currently building including 2&quot; building foam.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I prefer plywood and spline for sub roadbed. I am not fond of foam for laying track as it needs glued down and is a PITA to remove if required, not to mention messy. I also like nailing my track down just like the prototype does.  I plan on trying multiple scenery methods on my new layout I am currently building including 2&#8243; building foam.</p>
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		<title>
		By: Mike		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2019/03/plywood-foam-insulation-board.html#comment-28440</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Mike]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 20 Mar 2019 12:07:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=5143#comment-28440</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[2 inch foam is the answer for many reasons:  light weight, strong with 1x4 supports every 2 feet and 1x6 frame.  Easy to drop feeders through, quieter than wood,  some great building tips on my channel.  Go to youtube, search for &quot;captain mikie&quot; click on VIDEOS.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>2 inch foam is the answer for many reasons:  light weight, strong with 1&#215;4 supports every 2 feet and 1&#215;6 frame.  Easy to drop feeders through, quieter than wood,  some great building tips on my channel.  Go to youtube, search for &#8220;captain mikie&#8221; click on VIDEOS.</p>
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		<title>
		By: Robert Schworm		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2019/03/plywood-foam-insulation-board.html#comment-28439</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Robert Schworm]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 20 Mar 2019 12:07:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=5143#comment-28439</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[I use 1.2 inch plywood over a open girder benchwork.  Then top it with 1 inch extruded foam baord (gren or blue)  Define your track plan on this foam, use Liquid Nails Foam for Projects. Lay a smear of this adhesive along your track centers and fix your foam raodbed (woodland scenics).  Then pin your track down, with about 1 inch small head nails.  Press down thru the member, the roadbed, and thru the smear layer into the foam.  The smear will grab those nails like crazy, but allow them to be pulled up to move the track as required.  Do not spike your track into plywood, you will go crazy pulling it up.  Do not ballast for at least 1 year until you are positive your rolling stock has no issues with the tracks.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I use 1.2 inch plywood over a open girder benchwork.  Then top it with 1 inch extruded foam baord (gren or blue)  Define your track plan on this foam, use Liquid Nails Foam for Projects. Lay a smear of this adhesive along your track centers and fix your foam raodbed (woodland scenics).  Then pin your track down, with about 1 inch small head nails.  Press down thru the member, the roadbed, and thru the smear layer into the foam.  The smear will grab those nails like crazy, but allow them to be pulled up to move the track as required.  Do not spike your track into plywood, you will go crazy pulling it up.  Do not ballast for at least 1 year until you are positive your rolling stock has no issues with the tracks.</p>
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		<title>
		By: phil johnson		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2019/03/plywood-foam-insulation-board.html#comment-28433</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[phil johnson]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 20 Mar 2019 05:47:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=5143#comment-28433</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[I use 3/8&quot; plywood for base.  Carve 2&quot; blue/pink foam to shape then glue to plywood.  For ground throw I use .030 plastic sheet  glued to the foam]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I use 3/8&#8243; plywood for base.  Carve 2&#8243; blue/pink foam to shape then glue to plywood.  For ground throw I use .030 plastic sheet  glued to the foam</p>
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		<title>
		By: Frank B		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2019/03/plywood-foam-insulation-board.html#comment-28430</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Frank B]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 20 Mar 2019 05:13:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=5143#comment-28430</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[The first question: is this for a permanent layout at home, or for a portable layout you can move and put away, or even take to exhibitions ?

If it is permanent at home (and you don&#039;t plan to move (ever !-)), then weight is not important.   
But when wiring up and mounting turnouts etc, it will be much easier to make holes through the baseboard if it is a thin and/or lightweight material.

Thin plywood on a wooden frame will be light and portable, and easy to cut through for wiring and turnouts etc.
And foam on top for landscaping will be fine.   However, for any ramps and gradients, it is usual to make the track base from plywood sections and mount it securely before filling in the scenic hills.

It will probably be worthwhile to get a basic book on model railroad layout building and wiring to get a grasp in advance of all the fundamental necessities and considerations.

Fire safety: no smoking or naked flames near any layout !   Most kinds of plastic foam are flammable, as are many other components (wood, paper, card, plastic).]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The first question: is this for a permanent layout at home, or for a portable layout you can move and put away, or even take to exhibitions ?</p>
<p>If it is permanent at home (and you don&#8217;t plan to move (ever !-)), then weight is not important.<br />
But when wiring up and mounting turnouts etc, it will be much easier to make holes through the baseboard if it is a thin and/or lightweight material.</p>
<p>Thin plywood on a wooden frame will be light and portable, and easy to cut through for wiring and turnouts etc.<br />
And foam on top for landscaping will be fine.   However, for any ramps and gradients, it is usual to make the track base from plywood sections and mount it securely before filling in the scenic hills.</p>
<p>It will probably be worthwhile to get a basic book on model railroad layout building and wiring to get a grasp in advance of all the fundamental necessities and considerations.</p>
<p>Fire safety: no smoking or naked flames near any layout !   Most kinds of plastic foam are flammable, as are many other components (wood, paper, card, plastic).</p>
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		<title>
		By: Eugene Hansen		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2019/03/plywood-foam-insulation-board.html#comment-28427</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Eugene Hansen]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 20 Mar 2019 02:04:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=5143#comment-28427</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[I use Homosote with 1x4&quot; framing.  Easier than plywood for inserting screws and better soundproofing.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I use Homosote with 1&#215;4&#8243; framing.  Easier than plywood for inserting screws and better soundproofing.</p>
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