Comments on: How To Prevent Dull Solder

By: Ananda

Ananda — Tue, 09 Jul 2019 06:45:28 +0000

All god points above. One thing to remember is to not let the parts move until the solder hardens. You need an iron that can deliver enough heat very quickly to the point of the soldering. If not, you will melt the plastic while waiting for the heat to build up to melt the solder. The idea is to keep the iron as short as possible a time in contact with the rails. Once the iron is withdrawn, make sure nothing moves before the solder hardens.

By: Skip Duld

Skip Duld — Thu, 27 Jun 2019 06:18:51 +0000

In reply to Bob Rimm. THAT SOUNDS LIKE A GREAT IDEA TKS FOR THAT I DON'T NEED IT YET .

By: Sheldon Clark

Sheldon Clark — Wed, 19 Jun 2019 21:51:12 +0000

In reply to Denis.

Thanks for that – I’ve been trying for years to get good solder joints, but never heard anyone suggesting a couple of your suggestion. I’ll try them out next time I do some soldering

By: SCOTT LAUGHLIN

SCOTT LAUGHLIN — Mon, 17 Jun 2019 12:41:25 +0000

In reply to W Rusty Lane. Go back and reheat all the joints with a hot iron. Hold the iron on the joint until the solder flows. Then pull away without moving anything. Use a pencil iron no greater than 30 Watts with a touch of flux and rosin core soldier, thinner I'd better. Put dab of solFer on the iron tip and carry it to your work. I've been a ham radio operator for 30 years and an air force airborne radio man before that. These steps work for me. Acid core solder will desolve the insulation. Don't be scared. Every mistake can be corrected.

By: Gerard Bohlmann

Gerard Bohlmann — Wed, 12 Jun 2019 17:27:36 +0000

Nobody mentioned using a track gauge while soldering. This will help keep track in alignment even if the plastic ties soften a little while soldering which in turn allows longer application of heat. Once the heat is taken away, the plastic hardens again. The one I use also serves as a heat sink as well. My hands are very shaky but I still get clean soldered joints on my N scale layout.

By: Denis

Denis — Wed, 12 Jun 2019 16:02:02 +0000

A few points about multi-flux and, indeed, plumbing solder: Firstly; Most solder sold today is lead-free and in both electrical and plumbing applications the finish is slightly dull. Those people getting beautiful shiny finishes are probably using the old type of solder that they’ve had for years and years. You can still buy solder containing lead at major electronic component suppliers but you must stipulate you want lead-based solder or play it safe and settle for lead-free and accept that you’re never going to get shiny joints. Secondly; Solder will flow from the cooler area to the hotter so always place the iron on one side away from the joint and apply the solder to the other allowing the liquid solder to run around the joint on it’s way to the iron. Thirdly; It’s all a matter of timing, apply the tinned iron to the joint. When the joint is hot (you can judge when it’s hot enough by tapping the solder gently on the joint and a small wisp of smoke will be emitted) apply the solder, when the solder has flowed around the joint remove the solder and THEN the iron. If you move the iron first you’ll get what is called a whisker as the end of the solder is pulled away from the cooling joint. DO NOT move the joint before the solder has set.
Cleanliness is paramount. The flux performs three jobs 1) it melts before the solder and being slightly acidic and cleans the joint 2) It forms a shield over the joint to stop it oxidizing before the solder does it’s job 3) It helps the heat to flow from the iron to the joint. So if you’ve burned the flux off before the joint is complete these advantages are lost and you will fail to make a good joint. some-times you can get away with adding additional liquid flux.

By: Bob Rimm

Bob Rimm — Wed, 12 Jun 2019 14:43:57 +0000

Erin:

The issue is two fold. One: The soldering Iron is not large enough to maintain the heat needed to properly melt the solder. Two: Because of the mass of the rail, the heat is is being distributed along the whole length of the rail. If you use a larger Soldering Iron you would begin to melt the Ties. I have been soldering my power connections to the Track Clips. This Hides the wires and eliminates the issue of melting the Ties.

My Process:

Step 1: Using a pair of needle nose pliers or forceps, I clamp the track clip so that 80% of the bottom is exposed. I use a pair of vice grips to hold my “clip holder” so that the bottom of the clip is facing up.

Step 2: Using a piece of sand paper or a file, polish the bottom half of the clip to make it clean to help the solder stick.

Step 3: Heat the clip with the soldering iron while feeding some solder onto the clip. Suset enough to coat the area you want to connect the wire to.

Step 4: Strip the coating off of 1/8 inch of the wire you are connecting to the clip. Then using the Soldering Iron, heat the wire and tin it by adding solder. If the wire is stranded, it will soak up the solder.

Step 5: Now solder the wire to the bottom of the clip by heating both the clip and the wire at the same time. After the solder melts, remove the iron and let it cool before removing it from the clamp.

Good Luck!

By: Morgan Bilbo

Morgan Bilbo — Wed, 12 Jun 2019 13:46:51 +0000

I must add. The soldering iron tip Must Be Clean and shiny. I keep a copper/can be steel/scrub brush handy. (Bought 3/$1 at Dollar Tree). And use it to scrub the iron tip each time I use it. i.e. Heat the iron, tin the tip. tin the item being soldered/rail and wire. Do this before touching the iron to the rail. After you have a bit of solder on the rail and wire, then put them together and hold still while applying the iron. Just a quick touch is usually enough. Yes, you must have the rail and wire hot, but you don’t need to hold the iron on them for very long. I think the scrub brush is better than a wet sponge. Use flux sparingly, not a lot/Just enough to help the solder melt.

By: Justin

Justin — Wed, 12 Jun 2019 08:41:07 +0000

In reply to Jim Hall (James). *vice versa.

By: Stewart

Stewart — Wed, 12 Jun 2019 07:53:42 +0000

Hi Erin, nearly all the bases have been covered, if you are new to the art of soldering, I take it you have a new iron, did you set up the tip from new, i.e., before turning it on take a length of solder and wrap it around the tip tightly, then switch it on, this will Tin the tip which allows for a better soldering process, also get used to wiping the tip on a damp( not wet) sponge pad after every joint, this keeps all the crust away, Correct solder and flux are a must as with the right wattage iron, the process with practise becomes very easy,
Stew

By: Phillip

Phillip — Wed, 12 Jun 2019 06:31:02 +0000

In reply to Ron Scannell8. Hi Ron, I wished you hadn't explained your computer glitch, and I know where your coming from I do it all the time. I was just looking forward to the next issue of this forum, and everybody asking where do I get this fabulous stuff from it sounds great.

By: Phillip

Phillip — Wed, 12 Jun 2019 06:13:58 +0000

Hi Erin,
Everyone has covered soldering very well, and some very good advise- very good, hot iron (not to big, general purpose), good solder, good flux ( not household solder ) heat sinks and lots of practice on scrap and old pieces of track, we all learn something new every day, all you have to do is ask it’s the way we learn I’m still learning through the above chaps who have made great and informative comments, and at 70+ years still loving it,and as Ken Patterson would say “Its the greatest hobby in the world “. A source for soldering and electrics especially DCC , go to dcc concepts.com a WA based company now operating in the UK .