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	<title>
	Comments on: Nailing EZ Track to Plywood	</title>
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	<description>Model railroads and model trains</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Wed, 06 Nov 2019 22:10:21 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>
		By: W Rusty Lane		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2019/10/nailing-ez-track-plywood.html#comment-33479</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[W Rusty Lane]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 06 Nov 2019 22:10:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=5311#comment-33479</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[You can always use a micrometer to see what the nail diameter is and just go a tad smaller on the drill bit size so that it will have some &quot;grip&quot; into the plywood.  On my layout I first laid down cork road bed which I glued down and then laid the track on top of the road bed.  Then I tacked it down using small nails.  I don&#039;t think I even pre-drilled the holes.  If I can remember I just tacked the track to the road bed using long enough nails to penetrate the road bed and sink into my substrate which in my case, was 1/4 inch plywood.  The other part of my bench work was 5/8 inch pressboard.  I then ballasted it with small gravel I sifted from a rock plant quarry and held down with 50% water and 50% Elmer&#039;s glue.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>You can always use a micrometer to see what the nail diameter is and just go a tad smaller on the drill bit size so that it will have some &#8220;grip&#8221; into the plywood.  On my layout I first laid down cork road bed which I glued down and then laid the track on top of the road bed.  Then I tacked it down using small nails.  I don&#8217;t think I even pre-drilled the holes.  If I can remember I just tacked the track to the road bed using long enough nails to penetrate the road bed and sink into my substrate which in my case, was 1/4 inch plywood.  The other part of my bench work was 5/8 inch pressboard.  I then ballasted it with small gravel I sifted from a rock plant quarry and held down with 50% water and 50% Elmer&#8217;s glue.</p>
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		<title>
		By: Richard R. Duld		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2019/10/nailing-ez-track-plywood.html#comment-33032</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Richard R. Duld]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 17 Oct 2019 06:54:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=5311#comment-33032</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[I USE A DREMEL CORDLESS, ITS MUCH EASER. IM RUNNING N SCALE WITH NAILS AND GLUE THE SAME KIND THAT MORGAN USES. THE DREMEL HAS A EXT. ON IT.
   I ALSO USE A HAND CLAMP . I TAKE THE SOLID END THAT DON&#039;T MOVE AND PUT A # 10 IN THE CLAMP THAT DOSEN&#039;T MOVE. THEN USE THE CLAMP TO CLAMP DOWN ON GOING INTO THE WOOD.
   FOR NAILING TRACKS AND WOOD THAT U CAN&#039;T CLAMP I USE A TACK HAMMER.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I USE A DREMEL CORDLESS, ITS MUCH EASER. IM RUNNING N SCALE WITH NAILS AND GLUE THE SAME KIND THAT MORGAN USES. THE DREMEL HAS A EXT. ON IT.<br />
   I ALSO USE A HAND CLAMP . I TAKE THE SOLID END THAT DON&#8217;T MOVE AND PUT A # 10 IN THE CLAMP THAT DOSEN&#8217;T MOVE. THEN USE THE CLAMP TO CLAMP DOWN ON GOING INTO THE WOOD.<br />
   FOR NAILING TRACKS AND WOOD THAT U CAN&#8217;T CLAMP I USE A TACK HAMMER.</p>
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		<title>
		By: Frank B		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2019/10/nailing-ez-track-plywood.html#comment-32988</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Frank B]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 16 Oct 2019 02:25:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=5311#comment-32988</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Drill size: just a fraction smaller that the nail.  This makes it firm, but allows removal and repositioning.
A set of micro drills is only a few dollars.   Experiment to get the firmness you want.  

An electric drill is faster, but a pin vice or spiral drill (Archimedean drill) will work.   Go electric if you are doing a lot !]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Drill size: just a fraction smaller that the nail.  This makes it firm, but allows removal and repositioning.<br />
A set of micro drills is only a few dollars.   Experiment to get the firmness you want.  </p>
<p>An electric drill is faster, but a pin vice or spiral drill (Archimedean drill) will work.   Go electric if you are doing a lot !</p>
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		<title>
		By: Morgan Bilbo		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2019/10/nailing-ez-track-plywood.html#comment-32980</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Morgan Bilbo]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 16 Oct 2019 00:28:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=5311#comment-32980</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[The first thing I will say is: I don&#039;t like nails or spikes if avoidable. Use caulk. The caulk I use is DAP Alex Plus. A 10.1 oz tube/uses a standard caulk gun, costs less than $3 at HD or Lowes. Comes in colors or what I use is clear. Very easy to use. Very easy to pry up if needed. And a lot easier &#038; quicker than nails. Nails can put dents in your track. Be sure to spread it thin. Just barely visible. I used a 1&quot; putty knife. I spread it on one surface only, put the track on immediately, weighed it down with 2x4&#039;s and left it set for at least 2 hours or more. It does take 24 hours to fully cure. But if you don&#039;t mess with it, the 2hrs is enough and you can keep on. I did 6&#039; at a time. Making it easier to do. All IMHO.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The first thing I will say is: I don&#8217;t like nails or spikes if avoidable. Use caulk. The caulk I use is DAP Alex Plus. A 10.1 oz tube/uses a standard caulk gun, costs less than $3 at HD or Lowes. Comes in colors or what I use is clear. Very easy to use. Very easy to pry up if needed. And a lot easier &amp; quicker than nails. Nails can put dents in your track. Be sure to spread it thin. Just barely visible. I used a 1&#8243; putty knife. I spread it on one surface only, put the track on immediately, weighed it down with 2&#215;4&#8217;s and left it set for at least 2 hours or more. It does take 24 hours to fully cure. But if you don&#8217;t mess with it, the 2hrs is enough and you can keep on. I did 6&#8242; at a time. Making it easier to do. All IMHO.</p>
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