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	<title>
	Comments on: Securing Kato Track in Place	</title>
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	<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2020/09/securing-kato-track-place.html?utm_source=rss&#038;utm_medium=rss&#038;utm_campaign=securing-kato-track-place</link>
	<description>Model railroads and model trains</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Wed, 14 Oct 2020 01:54:08 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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	<item>
		<title>
		By: Brian		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2020/09/securing-kato-track-place.html#comment-41531</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Brian]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 14 Oct 2020 01:54:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=5810#comment-41531</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[If I were attaching Kato track to a hard surface such as plywood I would try that method described by Lou above. I will be laying my Kato track onto 2 inch thick insulation board so I&#039;m going to use rubber cement. That will hold it down and it&#039;ll be easy for me to take it up when I want to change something.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>If I were attaching Kato track to a hard surface such as plywood I would try that method described by Lou above. I will be laying my Kato track onto 2 inch thick insulation board so I&#8217;m going to use rubber cement. That will hold it down and it&#8217;ll be easy for me to take it up when I want to change something.</p>
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		<title>
		By: Gregory Bowen		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2020/09/securing-kato-track-place.html#comment-41086</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Gregory Bowen]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 02 Oct 2020 05:46:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=5810#comment-41086</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[I use regular dressmakers pins and white glue along the edges of the trackbed - when ballasted, the pins are removed and if the need arises to move the track, I spray with water which softens the glue...easily moved and replaced. Most of my unitrack is on its third layout now with no problems.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I use regular dressmakers pins and white glue along the edges of the trackbed &#8211; when ballasted, the pins are removed and if the need arises to move the track, I spray with water which softens the glue&#8230;easily moved and replaced. Most of my unitrack is on its third layout now with no problems.</p>
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		<title>
		By: Jeffrey Thomas		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2020/09/securing-kato-track-place.html#comment-41064</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Jeffrey Thomas]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 01 Oct 2020 17:32:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=5810#comment-41064</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[I just use Elmer&#039;s glue along the edge to hold my Kato unitrak in place. Mine is N scale track,  it should work for HO track.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I just use Elmer&#8217;s glue along the edge to hold my Kato unitrak in place. Mine is N scale track,  it should work for HO track.</p>
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		<title>
		By: Garret Coleman		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2020/09/securing-kato-track-place.html#comment-41063</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Garret Coleman]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 01 Oct 2020 16:04:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=5810#comment-41063</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[I use track nails  on my N scale layout. I have made many changes and they are not hard to remove with side cutter plyers.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I use track nails  on my N scale layout. I have made many changes and they are not hard to remove with side cutter plyers.</p>
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		<title>
		By: Nicholas Westwood		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2020/09/securing-kato-track-place.html#comment-41045</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Nicholas Westwood]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 01 Oct 2020 02:52:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=5810#comment-41045</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Try black tack.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Try black tack.</p>
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		<item>
		<title>
		By: David Gladwin		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2020/09/securing-kato-track-place.html#comment-41040</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[David Gladwin]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 01 Oct 2020 01:17:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=5810#comment-41040</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[I normally use thin slices of double sided tape which lasts for up to 10 years.  One advantage is that it will give a little as the track expands/contracts.  Try a short length.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I normally use thin slices of double sided tape which lasts for up to 10 years.  One advantage is that it will give a little as the track expands/contracts.  Try a short length.</p>
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		<title>
		By: geoff		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2020/09/securing-kato-track-place.html#comment-41034</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[geoff]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 01 Oct 2020 00:32:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=5810#comment-41034</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[I know you said you don&#039;t want to use glue, but I used acrylic latex caulk for a flextrack oval in 009 (9mm gauge track).   Track glued onto cork underlay glued to foam insulation board.  I had to take it up as I couldn&#039;t get the flex track to make a smooth join on a curve, and it came up no problem with a plastic paint scraper.  (Although only the track was re-useable).  

If you must use screws, I think you will need to countersink each hole to lower the screw head.  Alternatively, you could try drilling a small hole in the side of the trackbed to take a screw.  But you can get some pretty small screws at the type of hobby store that caters to people who build doll houses.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I know you said you don&#8217;t want to use glue, but I used acrylic latex caulk for a flextrack oval in 009 (9mm gauge track).   Track glued onto cork underlay glued to foam insulation board.  I had to take it up as I couldn&#8217;t get the flex track to make a smooth join on a curve, and it came up no problem with a plastic paint scraper.  (Although only the track was re-useable).  </p>
<p>If you must use screws, I think you will need to countersink each hole to lower the screw head.  Alternatively, you could try drilling a small hole in the side of the trackbed to take a screw.  But you can get some pretty small screws at the type of hobby store that caters to people who build doll houses.</p>
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		<item>
		<title>
		By: Lou		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2020/09/securing-kato-track-place.html#comment-41028</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Lou]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 30 Sep 2020 23:08:40 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=5810#comment-41028</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[I have a large portion of my layout using Kato track and although its HO scale I find that fastening screws to the edge of the road bed holds it securely. For instance two strategically placed screws on either side of the road bed where the screw head holds the track in place securely while not actually penetrating the road bed works nicely. Try it out!]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have a large portion of my layout using Kato track and although its HO scale I find that fastening screws to the edge of the road bed holds it securely. For instance two strategically placed screws on either side of the road bed where the screw head holds the track in place securely while not actually penetrating the road bed works nicely. Try it out!</p>
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		<title>
		By: ROBERT SCHWORM		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2020/09/securing-kato-track-place.html#comment-41027</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[ROBERT SCHWORM]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 30 Sep 2020 23:06:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=5810#comment-41027</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[For using small micro screws, instead of screwing the rails down in the center, how about securing the members out on their ends, say like this - 

Screw member down - -count down about 4 members and jump over to the other side of the rails.  Drive a screw here and then alternate this pattern around the layout. Perhaps a nice small round head like a track spike...may almost disappear into the member.  Weather track with paint and it may just about all blend in.  Be sure your screws reach down to the plywood deck for a secure grip. Or perhpas thru homosote board.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>For using small micro screws, instead of screwing the rails down in the center, how about securing the members out on their ends, say like this &#8211; </p>
<p>Screw member down &#8211; -count down about 4 members and jump over to the other side of the rails.  Drive a screw here and then alternate this pattern around the layout. Perhaps a nice small round head like a track spike&#8230;may almost disappear into the member.  Weather track with paint and it may just about all blend in.  Be sure your screws reach down to the plywood deck for a secure grip. Or perhpas thru homosote board.</p>
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		<item>
		<title>
		By: Robert Gunter		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2020/09/securing-kato-track-place.html#comment-41026</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Robert Gunter]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 30 Sep 2020 23:00:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=5810#comment-41026</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[I have never found a screw that will work.  If you find one please let me know.

Thanks]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have never found a screw that will work.  If you find one please let me know.</p>
<p>Thanks</p>
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