Comments on: Track Attached to Plywood or Cork?

By: edson

edson — Sun, 31 Jan 2021 13:12:35 +0000

Thank you all for the information. I’m starting to make my N-scale railway (finally after 50 years)

By: Robert Deering

Robert Deering — Wed, 20 Jan 2021 17:44:21 +0000

I USED CORK board and regret I did.. It absorbs moisture and it expand and contract leaving high and low spots as well spaces at seams. I have s gague and it made very difficult and time consuming to get all the track level.

By: NICHOLAS WESTWOOD

NICHOLAS WESTWOOD — Wed, 20 Jan 2021 07:34:31 +0000

In reply to Geoff. To avoid kinks at joints in curved flextrack, offsetting the rail ends by at least 9 rail ties works for me.

By: Morgan Bilbo

Morgan Bilbo — Wed, 20 Jan 2021 01:48:23 +0000

When I responded, I might have not been clear. I wanted no nails, no metal near the track. So I used DAP Alex exclusively, It can be pried up if needed. It is not permanent. But on my layout it’s over a year and the track is fine. No problems. I caulked the roadbed and track at one time, weighed them down with cans. Easy as can be. Why use nails and then have to pull them? The weight of cans was more than sufficient. Oh yes. I painted everything first. Earth color.

By: Ken Bristow

Ken Bristow — Sun, 17 Jan 2021 21:20:14 +0000

Use painted cork under the track, foam starts to break up after many years. If you glue the track it is just about impossible to get the track up later if you change your design or the track is damaged,etc, I know of people having to use a chisel and mallet to get track up. I have used track pins and screws to hold track down and have come to the conclusion screws are best, a small screw can be adjusted and removed to change design, add super elevation. Layout wood moves around an hotter climates and further requires track adjustment. I agree with Phillip Collins what ever you use, tack down the outside of the sleeper it does not cause track gauge changes.

By: Finn Sartor

Finn Sartor — Fri, 15 Jan 2021 16:54:01 +0000

In reply to Geoff. to avoid kinks in the assembly between flextrack I use the tracksetta to hold the track inplace.

By: Phillip Collins

Phillip Collins — Fri, 15 Jan 2021 07:29:46 +0000

I use small finishing nails/pins on the OUTSIDE of the sleeper web. There’s no danger of damaging the sleepers or gauge narrowing. One must use a rim punch. It’s easier to remove the nails/pins and slight adjustments can be made very easily.. My track is laid on cork on top of chipboard.

By: Clint Coleman

Clint Coleman — Thu, 14 Jan 2021 22:47:47 +0000

Cork sounds the way to go. I will also investigate Homosote thanks Hervey and thanks to others too. Much appreciated. ?

By: John Pilgrim

John Pilgrim — Thu, 14 Jan 2021 10:32:08 +0000

I use Woodland Scenics HO scale track bed because it comes in a continuous 24 foot length and there is a facility for cutting it down the centre to follow curves. I lay this on my plywood and secure with double sided tape until I have laid the track on it and the track is then secured using track screws which is readily available on E-bay. I have never had any problems.

By: Andrew Smith

Andrew Smith — Thu, 14 Jan 2021 09:12:05 +0000

My track is screwed and glued to an MDF board .
The board is heavy but as strong as a 5 ply wood board

By: Andrew Smith

Andrew Smith — Thu, 14 Jan 2021 09:07:42 +0000

My track is screwed and glued to an MDF board .
The board is heavy but as strong as a 5 ply wood board

By: phil johnson

phil johnson — Thu, 14 Jan 2021 07:10:05 +0000

I use standard gauge cork for the mainline.. N-scale and none for sidings and spurs. Secured with track nails until ballast has dried.