However, it’s not difficult to do it yourself as long as you are methodical. Modern locomtives have a decoder socket installed so it’s just a case of accessing the socket (the locomotive instructions will tell you how to do this), taking out the blanking plug and fitting a decoder with the right pin configuration (again, the locomotive instructions or an internet search will tell you what this).

If it’s an old locomotive without a socket, then you need to be more careful. An 8 pin wired decoder is as good a place to start as any but make absolutely certain that the decoder you buy can handle the current your locomotive draws. I have converted several Triang/Hornby locomotives from the 1970s and I had to get decoders that could handle over 1 amp. Sadly I did fry a couple of decoders along the way but you learn these things the hard way!

Normally, it’s just a case of cutting the wires from the pickups to the motor and then soldering the decoder wires to the four bare ends you’ve created:

– Red & black to the pickups on the wheels
– Orange & grey to the motor

The only thing to watch for is some locomotives use the chassis to connect the wheels on one side to the motor so there’s no wire to cut. In these cases, you have to find a way to electrically isolate the motor from the chassis so that you can then connect, say, the black decoder wire to the chassis and the grey decoder wire to the motor.

It sounds harder than it is and once you’ve done a couple, it becomes second nature.

Good luck!