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	<title>
	Comments on: How The Car Types and Brands Compare	</title>
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	<description>Model railroads and model trains</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Wed, 22 Jun 2022 23:51:27 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>
		By: Frank B		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2022/06/how-the-car-types-and-brands-compare.html#comment-58605</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Frank B]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Jun 2022 23:51:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=6533#comment-58605</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Knuckle couplers are based on the design of the real thing, and are therefore more realistic.  Kadee are well recommended.   Metal couplers are stronger than plastic and will not deform. 
 
Vist model railroad shows and see for yourself what makes and types you like the look of. 
Join a model railroad club and get enormous personal help, advice and support. 
Google online reviews and watch Youtube videos on various manufacturer&#039;s models.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Knuckle couplers are based on the design of the real thing, and are therefore more realistic.  Kadee are well recommended.   Metal couplers are stronger than plastic and will not deform. <br />
 <br />
Vist model railroad shows and see for yourself what makes and types you like the look of. <br />
Join a model railroad club and get enormous personal help, advice and support. <br />
Google online reviews and watch Youtube videos on various manufacturer&#8217;s models.</p>
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		<title>
		By: Steve Low		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2022/06/how-the-car-types-and-brands-compare.html#comment-58603</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Steve Low]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Jun 2022 23:51:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=6533#comment-58603</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[yes I will have a go weathering them and opt for knuckle couplers as you suggest. Thx.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>yes I will have a go weathering them and opt for knuckle couplers as you suggest. Thx.</p>
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		<title>
		By: Gerald R Hyink		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2022/06/how-the-car-types-and-brands-compare.html#comment-58589</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Gerald R Hyink]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Jun 2022 13:33:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=6533#comment-58589</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[You want knuckle couplers not hook and horn.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>You want knuckle couplers not hook and horn.</p>
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		<title>
		By: Hervey Howe		</title>
		<link>https://blog.model-train-help.com/2022/06/how-the-car-types-and-brands-compare.html#comment-58575</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Hervey Howe]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Jun 2022 02:43:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://blog.model-train-help.com/?p=6533#comment-58575</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Steve, 
Price is a pretty good indication of potential quality. I say potential because unless they are RTR (ready to run) then the care put into building the model will ultimately determine the model quality. That being said if you are willing to spend some time you can take a cheap shake the box (think Athearn Blue Box) into a beautiful fine running model. If you are planning to weather your cars to reflect the real world then I suggest you start with a couple of very inexpensive (Athearn Blue Box or Accurail) and learn on those how to weather lightly.
The other thing to bear in mind is the weight of the finished car. Use NMRA RP 20.1 as a starting point. Also length of the car in relation to the curves on your railroad. Long cars (&#062;50&#039;) on sharp curves (24&quot;  or sharper in HO) apart from looking funny with the overhang are likely to cause derailment problems.
Using metal wheels and Kadee couplers is a good start. Better yet is to use the same wheels (metal) and truck manufacturers on all your rolling stock and make sure they are free rolling. To ensure a wheel is free rolling I turn it by flicking it with my finger then to be free rolling it has to continue to turn for at least 10 seconds. Also verify gauge of every wheel set you put on your layout. A beautiful model with Kadee couplers and free wheeling wheel sets will cause you nothing but problems if the wheels are out of gauge. Buy a NMRA Standards Gage and keep it handy.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Steve,<br />
Price is a pretty good indication of potential quality. I say potential because unless they are RTR (ready to run) then the care put into building the model will ultimately determine the model quality. That being said if you are willing to spend some time you can take a cheap shake the box (think Athearn Blue Box) into a beautiful fine running model. If you are planning to weather your cars to reflect the real world then I suggest you start with a couple of very inexpensive (Athearn Blue Box or Accurail) and learn on those how to weather lightly.<br />
The other thing to bear in mind is the weight of the finished car. Use NMRA RP 20.1 as a starting point. Also length of the car in relation to the curves on your railroad. Long cars (&gt;50&#8242;) on sharp curves (24&#8243;  or sharper in HO) apart from looking funny with the overhang are likely to cause derailment problems.<br />
Using metal wheels and Kadee couplers is a good start. Better yet is to use the same wheels (metal) and truck manufacturers on all your rolling stock and make sure they are free rolling. To ensure a wheel is free rolling I turn it by flicking it with my finger then to be free rolling it has to continue to turn for at least 10 seconds. Also verify gauge of every wheel set you put on your layout. A beautiful model with Kadee couplers and free wheeling wheel sets will cause you nothing but problems if the wheels are out of gauge. Buy a NMRA Standards Gage and keep it handy.</p>
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