Search Results for: Benchwork Building
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Building Benchwork
Tom a keen member of the online model train club shares his idea:
These are a couple ways to build a sturdy but light platform for my S gauge layout. If you buy standard metal wall studs at the home center, say 10 ft. long, use these as the main outside and inside horizontal supports. You can put standard wood 1×4′s between the metal studs for leg support.
For the decking, take a hint from the Aluminum patio enclosure people. The roof sections they use are 4inch foam with thin sheets of aluminum sheets glued to top and bottom. Incredible strength. In the railroad application, use 2 inch or 4 inch blue or pink foam board and sandwich between thin sheets of plywood. You can glue more foam board on the top for the landscape.
Building S Gauge Benchwork
Tom has kindly sent in this tip for S Gauge (1/64 scale) enthusiasts:
“These are a couple ways to build a sturdy but light platform. If you buy standard metal wall studs at the home center, say 10 ft. long, use these as the main outside and inside horizantal supports. You can put standard wood 1×4’s between the metal studs for leg support.
For the decking, take a hint from the Aluminum patio enclosure people. The roof sections they use are 4inch foam with thin sheets of aluminum sheets glued to top and bottom. Incredible strength. In the railroad application, use 2 inch or 4 inch blue or pink foam board and sandwich between thin sheets of plywood. You can glue more foam board on the top for the landscape.”
What is the most challenging part of building a Model Railroad Layout?
The results are in from the last poll where 227 people voted. The question was “What is the most challenging part of building a Model Railroad Layout?” Answers were as follows:
Planning (36%)
Track Wiring (26%)
Scenery (19%)
Maintenance & Repairs (6%)
Benchwork (6%)
Other (5%)
Building Structures (2%)
Benchwork, Styrafoam, and Wiring
Mark is planning a DCC layout and wants to hear from anyone who has DCC and layout building experience:
“I am re-entering the hobby after a few years. I am going DCC, and looking at using foam rather than plaster – better for the system. What I don’t understand is the use of foam and wiring through it. Should I put down a plywood base, then add 2″ of foam? How do you anchor the risers on top of all of this, and how difficult is it to run wiring through the foam?”
Add your comments below using the green comments link.
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Build Smart: The Ideal Height and Width for Your Model Railroad Layout
When it comes to building a model train layout, most people focus on track plans, scenery, or wiring. But here’s something just as important: the height and width of your layout. Get this wrong, and you’ll be uncomfortable, frustrated, and possibly even damaging your hard work.
Finding the Right Height
The “perfect” height depends on how you enjoy the hobby. If you like standing back and watching the trains roll by, a higher layout… around 48 to 52 inches… gives you that eye-level view of scenery and operations.
But if you’re more into hands-on switching and operations, go a bit lower… around 40 inches… so you can easily reach in and manipulate cars, track switches, and scenery.
Got kids or grandkids involved? Think lower still, maybe 30 to 36 inches, so they can see the action without struggling.
Don’t Overstretch the Width
Width (or depth) is just as critical. A layout against a wall should stay between 24 to 30 inches deep so you can comfortably reach every spot. Anything more, and you’ll find yourself climbing over scenery to fix derailments or uncouple cars. Obviously, the scale you are building and operating is a consideration.
For U-shaped or island-style layouts, you can go wider… 36 to 48 inches… since you’ll have access from multiple sides. Always test your reach first: can you get to every spot without leaning too far or damaging scenery?
Plan for the Future
Remember, higher benchwork shortens your reach, and none of us is getting younger. If possible, build access holes or design your layout so it can be reached from more than one side. Maintenance is part of the hobby, so plan smart now, and you’ll enjoy smoother operations for years to come.
? Pro Tip: Download your free Model Builders catalog here: https://www.modelbuildings.org
1. Benchwork Building
- In the planning section: “higher benchwork shortens your reach” → “benchwork”
How to Use Realistic Textures to Transform Your Model Railroad Scenery
Ideas for more natural looking and smoother operating model train layout
One of the biggest differences between a basic model train layout and a truly impressive one is the use of realistic scenery textures. Texture brings your miniature world to life by adding depth, variety, and a natural appearance to the landscape surrounding your tracks.
When many hobbyists first build a layout, they focus mainly on getting trains running smoothly. Track is often placed on a flat board or benchwork surface to ensure reliable operation. This approach makes sense, because stable, level track helps prevent derailments and reduces maintenance problems.
But once the trains are running well, it’s time to start adding scenery. That’s where textures become essential. By introducing subtle variations in terrain, ground cover, and landscape features, you can transform a flat board into a convincing miniature world.
Let’s explore how to use textures effectively to make your model railroad scenery look more natural and realistic.
Start with a Smooth Track Foundation
Before focusing on scenery textures, it’s important to remember that track reliability always comes first. Real railroads spend significant time and effort creating a stable right-of-way so trains can operate safely and smoothly. Model railroaders should follow the same principle.
Your track should be:
- Firmly secured to the baseboard or roadbed
- Level and properly aligned
- Free from sudden dips or bumps
- Supported by quality roadbed material such as cork or foam
Once your track is installed and tested thoroughly, you can begin shaping the surrounding landscape.
Add Gentle Terrain Changes for Realism
While the track itself should remain stable and even, the land around it rarely is perfectly flat in the real world. Adding gentle terrain variations instantly improves the realism of a layout.
Small hills, shallow dips, and rolling contours create a more believable environment. These subtle changes can be formed using materials such as:
- Foam insulation boards
- Plaster cloth
- Lightweight scenery plaster
- Sculpted foam terrain
The key is to keep transitions gradual unless you intentionally want dramatic terrain such as cliffs or rocky cuttings. Smooth elevation changes help the scenery blend naturally together.
Create Hills and Rolling Countryside
Many model railroad scenes benefit from rolling hills or raised terrain areas. These features break up the visual flatness of a layout and give trains the appearance of traveling through real countryside.
Hills can be shaped using stacked foam layers or crumpled paper covered with plaster cloth. Once the basic shape is created, you can add textures such as:
- Static grass
- Ground foam
- Dirt and soil materials
- Small bushes and shrubs
These textures add visual variety and make the landscape feel organic.
Add Mountains and Rocky Features
Mountains are one of the most popular scenery elements in model railroading. The good news is that mountains don’t have to be perfect to look convincing.
Nature itself is irregular, so jagged edges, rocky outcrops, and uneven surfaces actually make mountains look more realistic.
To build mountains, many hobbyists use:
- Carved foam blocks
- Plaster rock molds
- Sculpted plaster or hydrocal
Once shaped, the surface can be enhanced with paint washes, rock textures, and vegetation to create a rugged natural appearance.
Use Ground Cover Textures for Depth
Ground cover is one of the easiest ways to improve scenery realism. Instead of leaving surfaces painted a single color, use multiple textures to simulate natural terrain.
Common ground cover materials include:
- Fine and coarse ground foam
- Static grass fibers
- Scenic turf
- Ballast and gravel
- Natural soil or sand
Mixing several shades of green, brown, and tan prevents the scenery from looking artificial. Real landscapes rarely contain just one color.
Blend Different Texture Layers
One mistake beginners often make is applying textures in isolated patches. Instead, try layering and blending materials together.
For example:
- Start with a base layer of earth-colored paint
- Add fine ground foam for grass areas
- Sprinkle small patches of coarse foam for bushes
- Add rocks or gravel for variation
Blending these layers together produces a far more natural look than using a single scenery material.
Use Realistic Rock and Soil Textures
Rock and soil features add an important sense of scale and realism to a layout.
You can create convincing rock faces by:
- Using commercial rock molds
- Carving foam to create stone textures
- Applying plaster and carving rock strata lines
Once dry, paint the rocks with thin washes of gray, brown, and black. This technique highlights natural cracks and crevices.
Adding small amounts of real dirt or fine gravel can also improve the realism of roadsides, riverbanks, and embankments.
Add Vegetation for Natural Variety
Vegetation helps soften the edges of scenery textures and makes landscapes feel alive.
Consider including:
- Static grass fields
- Small bushes and shrubs
- Trees of varying heights
- Weeds growing near track edges
- Wild grass patches around structures
Nature rarely grows evenly, so placing vegetation in irregular clusters helps the layout look more authentic.
Don’t Forget Water Textures
Water scenes provide another opportunity to add texture and visual interest.
Small creeks, ponds, or rivers can be created using clear resin or water-effect products. Adding textured riverbeds, rocks, and plants along the banks enhances realism.
Even a simple drainage ditch beside the track can add character to a scene.
Final Thoughts: Texture Brings Your Layout to Life
A model railroad layout becomes truly impressive when it captures the variety and irregular beauty of real landscapes. While reliable trackwork should always remain smooth and level, the surrounding terrain and structures should reflect the natural world.
By adding hills, mountains, ground cover, rocks, vegetation, and layered textures, you can transform a plain board into a living miniature environment.
The best part is that scenery textures are forgiving. Nature is rarely perfect, and a little randomness often makes a layout look even better.
Take your time experimenting with different materials and techniques. With thoughtful use of textures, your model railroad scenery will look far more realistic, immersive, and visually engaging for anyone who watches your trains roll through the landscape.
Scenery Tricks That Make Your Model Train Layout Look Much Bigger – PART 2
Proven Illusion Techniques to Add Depth, Distance, and Realism to Any Model Railroad
No matter how much space you have for your model railroad, it never feels quite big enough. Whether you’re building a compact shelf layout, a spare-room empire, or something in between, space is always at a premium. The good news is that you don’t need more square meters to make your layout feel larger. With smart scenery design and a few proven visual tricks, you can make your HO scale, OO scale, or N scale model railroad appear far more expansive than it really is.
The secret lies in how the human eye interprets depth, distance, and perspective. Let’s explore the most effective scenery techniques used by experienced model railroaders to make small layouts look impressively large.
Use Forced Perspective to Create Depth
Forced perspective is one of the most powerful tools in model railroad scenery design. The idea is simple: objects closer to the viewer appear larger and more detailed, while distant objects look smaller and softer.
On an HO scale layout, for example, you can place slightly smaller trees, vehicles, or even N scale buildings toward the rear of the scene. As the scale subtly reduces, the eye is tricked into believing the landscape continues much farther than it actually does. This technique works particularly well along the back edge of a layout or near a backdrop.
To keep the illusion convincing, make the transition gradual. Avoid sudden changes in scale, and limit fine details in the background to maintain a sense of distance.
Install a Realistic Backdrop That Extends the Scene
A high-quality backdrop instantly increases the perceived size of your model railroad. Painted skies, distant hills, mountains, or city skylines visually extend your scene beyond the physical edge of the benchwork.
Choose soft, muted colors for background scenery, as lighter tones naturally suggest distance. Make sure the horizon line aligns with the viewer’s eye level when standing or sitting at the layout. A mismatched horizon can break the illusion.
The most important step is blending. Match ground colors, textures, and vegetation at the base of the backdrop so there is no obvious “end” to the layout. When done correctly, the layout appears to flow seamlessly into the distance.
Add Elevation Changes and Layered Terrain
Flat layouts tend to look smaller than they really are. Adding elevation changes such as gentle hills, shallow cuts, embankments, and overpasses gives your scenery depth and dimension.
Even small variations in height can dramatically improve realism. Raised track sections, road overpasses, and rolling terrain suggest a much larger geographic area beyond what is visible.
Layering scenery elements enhances this effect. Instead of lining up trees, fences, or buildings in straight rows, stagger them at different depths. This layered arrangement creates visual complexity and makes the scene feel deeper and more expansive.
Curve Roads and Tracks Out of Sight
Straight lines reveal boundaries. Curved roads and tracks hide them.
When a track or road curves behind a hill, building, or tree line, the viewer assumes it continues beyond the visible scene. You don’t need to model what’s hidden… your brain fills in the rest. This technique works equally well with roads, paths, fences, and waterways.
Avoid running roads or tracks directly from one edge of the layout to the other. Let them disappear naturally into the scenery to create mystery and a sense of continuation.
Reduce Detail in the Distance
As objects recede into the distance in real life, they appear smaller, less colorful, and less detailed. You can replicate this effect on your model railroad.
Use shorter trees, smaller vehicles, thinner poles, and simpler structures toward the back of the layout. Reduce weathering and surface texture as you move into the background. This mimics natural atmospheric perspective and reinforces the illusion of depth.
This technique works especially well when combined with forced perspective and a well-blended backdrop.
Add Strategic View Blocks
It may seem counterintuitive, but blocking parts of your layout can actually make it feel larger. Buildings, overpasses, tree lines, and ridges act as visual dividers, breaking the scene into smaller sections.
These view blocks encourage the viewer to explore what lies beyond, creating a sense of discovery and hidden space. Just be careful not to block everything… use these elements to frame scenes and guide the eye rather than overwhelm it.
Use Lighting to Enhance Depth and Scale
Lighting plays a crucial role in how we perceive space. Soft shadows and highlights help define terrain and separate foreground from background.
Warm lighting in the foreground and cooler tones toward the rear subtly reinforce distance. Even consistent overhead lighting, when thoughtfully placed, can dramatically improve how large your layout feels.
Install Low-Relief Background Buildings
Low-relief or flat building fronts are a powerful way to suggest urban density without consuming valuable space. These thin structures sit against the backdrop and appear to extend deep into the scene.
Photo-realistic building designs mounted on lightweight materials such as corflute or foam board can add incredible realism. Details like weathering, stains, and faded signage help sell the illusion of age and distance while keeping your layout uncluttered.
Think Illusion, Not Expansion
Making your model railroad look bigger isn’t about adding more track or structures… it’s about guiding the viewer’s eye. By using perspective, elevation, curves, lighting, and layered scenery, you can create a layout that feels open, expansive, and immersive, even in a limited space.
With these proven scenery tricks, your model train layout can deliver the big-railroad experience… no extra room required.
Grab a Bargain on these Model Train E-books – Available now at the lowest prices ever offered!
The BEGINNERS BLUEPRINT Model Railroading PDF e-book series is your ultimate guide to building a model railroad, whether you’re just starting out or looking to improve your skills. Here’s what you’ll find in this comprehensive 6-part series:
- Planning Basics
Learn the fundamentals of model railroading with this e-book. It explains key terms like scales and gauges, helps you avoid common planning mistakes, and shows you how to start small and expand as you gain experience. You’ll also get an overview of DC vs. DCC power systems and a step-by-step guide to planning your ideal layout. - Track & Benchwork Basics
This guide covers everything from choosing the right track to building solid benchwork. Learn how to create modular layouts, prevent common track-laying mistakes, and get tips on ballasting, working out gradients, and wiring your layout with easy-to-follow diagrams. - Scenery Basics
Master the art of creating realistic scenery, including trees, roads, tunnels, and more. With clear instructions and visuals, this e-book makes it easy to craft detailed backdrops, weathered buildings, and stunning landscapes. - DCC Basics
DCC (Digital Command Control) doesn’t have to be intimidating. This e-book explains how to get started with DCC systems, covering everything from wiring to throttle control, with diagrams to guide you. - Troubleshooting
When something goes wrong, this guide helps you quickly identify and fix problems—saving you time and frustration. - 138 Questions & Answers
This handy reference is packed with expert solutions to common problems, helping you resolve issues quickly and efficiently.
Each downloadable e-book is simple to understand, with step-by-step instructions and helpful visuals. Save time, money, and frustration with these proven techniques!
Track Distance From Wall
Lester is building his HO layout and asks.
“I’m planning my L girder benchwork with plywood sub-roadbed and need to know how wide it needs to be. I want enough space for thin backdrop structures but need to know the minimum possible distance from the drywall (plasterboard) to the center line of the closest track to the wall. Good to hear your thoughts please.”
Comments can be added and read below.
Layouts in a Loft or Attic
In 2013 The Daily Mail in the UK ran this story “End of the line for model railway fan as housing association demands he dismantle £10,000 train set in attic on health and safety grounds”
Retired builder and father-of-three, Robert Burdock (61 at the time), had been into model railroading for 40 years. His model railway which had been in the same location for 15 years had 70ft of track with 63 locos.
Whether Robert Burdock was right or wrong, it does highlight the importance of safety when constructing layouts in roof cavities. Obviously the weight of the finished project including benchwork, scenic features, rolling stock, structures, electrics, accessories etc. as well as the weight of the engineer and any visitors all needs to be taken into consideration.
Results of a recent poll I ran showed that 5% of layouts were to be located in roofs/attics/lofts. When space is limited in the family home, model railroaders of try and think outside the square when locating layouts. A lot of people decide that a loft is a great ‘out of the way’ place to set up a model train set.
Ye
s, a loft can be a good solution, but be careful and do your homework first. Unless the loft has been properly converted there is a danger that you may overload the ceiling joists (resulting in cracked ceilings in the room below). There could also be the possibility of overloading the entire roof trusses resulting in a collapse… far worse scenario. Always seek professional advice, because some roofs cannot be modified safely to accommodate a load bearing down from “inside” the roof. If in doubt consult an engineer before locating your train set in a loft.
Randall, a reader to this blog also sent in this advice:
1. Consult a structural engineer, not an architect. The architect is about use of space and how humans and buildings interact, but knows very little about structural loads.
2. If you use a loft or “attic”, make sure it’s inside the insulated envelope of the home. If it isn’t, two things can happen:
A. In the summer it can get hot enough to deform plastic parts (shells, couplers, track ties, etc.)
B. In the winter it can get cold. The problem isn’t the cold itself, but what happens when the warm air of spring (or that comes through the trap door) comes up against cold materials: condensation. The water will condense wherever the warmer air can get to, not just on the outside of the model or box. This can happen in unheated garages, as well.
Search Railroading Words – New Word Search Puzzle
The feedback from the crossword puzzle on the blog a couple of weeks ago has been very encouraging with many requests for more puzzles. Here’s our first Word Search puzzle with some words that model railroaders might use.
If you would like to download the puzzle and print it out you can do so HERE. There is also a link to view or print out the solutions on the same web page.
Find these words:
AIR BRUSH, CAB, DECODER, FREIGHTYARD, JUNCTION, SCALE, SNAP SAW, TANK DOME
AMMETER, CONSOLIDATION, FLEXTRACK, FROG, MARKER, SCHEDULE, STYRENE, TRACTION
BALLAST, CROSSING, FLYWHEEL, HOMASOTE, REEFER, SLIDE, SUBROADBED, TRANSFORMER
BENCHWORK, CROWS NEST, FOREMAN, INTERCHANGE, ROADBED, FENCE, TAMPER
Print out puzzle and answers at http://www.modelbuildings.org/Puzzle-4-word-search.html
If you would like to see more puzzles like this on the blog, please let me know by commenting under this post.
Keeping Your Train Room Dry
Ben writes:
I see Dale posted a question a week or so ago relating track rust and mentioned the effects of humidity, so I thought I’d write a few words on setting up the right conditions for a layout.
One of the first things is to get the room prepared before constructing any benchwork for the layout. I know it is hard to resist just jumping in and getting started with a hammer and saw, but there are several important things to consider first apart from planning the size, shape, track configuration, scale etc.
The first job is to make the room dry. Dale mentioned his layout was in the garage and that’s a common location, as is a basement. Unfortunately basements and garages can get damp. If the space is not dry there will always be the risk of the benchwork not being stable, because humidity could cause the timber to swell. When the humidity drops the timber could dry out causing further changes or movement. This can impact on track levels and effect the sub-roadbed.
A couple of coats of waterproofing paint on the concrete block walls will help keep dampness at bay. In a lot of situations, a dehumidifier might be required to control room temperature and humidity levels. Adding insulation in the ceiling and walls will further help to keep the room dry. A drop ceiling can help with insulation and prevent dust from dropping onto the layout when someone walks across the floor on the upper level.
If the basement walls are not already insulated, start by putting up furring strips (a strip of wood tapering to nothing used in construction work) and styrofoam. Although there might only be ¾” of insulation, it will be better than having none. These furring strips can be attached to the basement walls using Tap-Con masonry screws. This will also be a help if your plan is to make your layout multi-level and intend to fix the upper layout level(s) to the wall. Using building adhesive and/or cement nails can fail over time so be careful with the weight loading. Having half your layout crash off the wall or rip wall panels loose can be disastrous. I would rather do a job once and do it right than to have to repair things after they have gone wrong.
If you have basement/garage windows you’ll need to decide whether or not to cover them with drywall or keep them accessible. Doing so would keep direct sunlight off the layout and probably mean you could include a realistic uninterrupted backdrop.
You’ll still need good lighting even if you don’t cover the windows. However, this raises another issue; the placement of the lights to be accessible and so the operators can see what they are doing. One option is to have lighting circuits finish in outlet boxes. Doing this will provide some flexibility as your layout takes shape. The lights can then be placed anywhere on the ceiling and be easily plugged in. The ceiling boxes won’t then need to be located exactly.
Whist on the subject of power circuits, it is a good idea having them along the walls usually under the layout, because running lots of extension cords is a problem waiting to happen. Being able to turn everything off at once when finishing for the day (or night) also makes sense. Having to turnoff several switches is frustrating and could result in something (like a heater or soldering iron) being accidentally left running.
Planning Your Dream Layout From Start To Finish
There are plenty of things to consider when planning and building a model railroad layout and it pays to take your time considering the numerous options and possibilities before getting too advanced with your project. In fact it’s usually best to begin with the end in mind by visualizing what you want your finished layout to be like before you get started with anything.
That’s not to say you shouldn’t be flexible throughout the construction process… you should! After all, you might discover a better way of doing things, or think of a great addition that could make your layout even better. You might even decide to eliminate a facet of your layout that isn’t really contributing to the overall design or operation.
I liken the planning and building of a layout to a long railroad journey. You start at Station A with the intention of arriving at your destination Station B (which represents the ultimate layout you dreamed of having).
Now along the way you can take different routes, or pause on a siding for a while, but the end goal should always be to get to Station B.
If on your journey you get diverted and decide to head in a different direction, then that’s okay as long as you eventually end up at Station B (your ultimate layout). What you don’t want to do is suddenly head in a different direction and never actually reach your ultimate goal (Station B).
If you want time out from your project then pause your journey on a siding for as long as you need, before recommencing your journey to Station B.
If you do decide to take a completely different route such as changing scales, then that’s okay (because it’s your layout and you get to decide), but you will need to accept you’ll likely arrive at a different destination (Station C). So, don’t be disappointed if you never actually get to where you originally intended. You might be happy with a different destination, because your ideas and goals may have completely changed. The decisions you make are entirely over to you. You’ll eventually end up somewhere, and as long as you enjoyed the journey, well that’s what really matters.
Planning and building a layout will require compromises along the way, so it’s not a bad idea to write down and prioritize what you really want (and what you could do without). Ruling up three columns on a sheet of paper like this is a good idea.
So many things can influence how a layout looks and operates. That’s why it makes sense to draw up a list of things to consider such as: benchwork designs, control systems, operating schemes, and scenic features. Include any other special wants, likes, dislikes, or desires such as “must be child-friendly,” “plenty of tunnels,” “lots of switching.” These are all worthy goals to consider at the planning stage.
I guess what I am saying is this:
–> Building a layout requires careful planning from start to finish
–> Begin with the end in mind
–> Although you will need a disciplined approach to keep on track, you may need to compromise on some ideas in order to get where you want to go. Time, budget, space, and your skill levels will affect what can be achieved.
–> Apply some flexibility to adapt and improve along the way. Be prepared to take different routes if necessary to get you to the same destination. There will be many options available, and multiple ways to get you where you want to go. You might not be able to alter the key elements of your layout plan, but that shouldn’t stop you from being creative in the way you work within the constraints you have. You may need to frequently revisit your list of priorities as you proceed along the journey.
–> If you want to throw the rule book out the window then that’s your choice. It’s your layout so do what you want to do.
–> Most importantly…. have fun along the journey!
Click here for more ideas on planning your dream layout.
Tell readers all about your layout here. Send in one good photo with a caption so readers can see what you created.
Add your comments.
Lift Out or Up Section For Pass Through
Steve asks for guidance from experienced model railroaders and asks:
“I have been building the benchwork for my HO model railroad for several years. I originally planned to simply do a duck-under to get to the inside walkway. The table is approx. 44 inches (window height) high. I have a disability that is progressing faster than I ever thought it would and a duck-under is no longer a viable option. Also a rolling stool isn’t very good either. I need to be able to lift or swing up on hinges a section wide enough for me to squeeze through that will cross a portion of table just over 5o inches wide. I need about a 12 – 14 inch passage. There will be multiple tracks. I can handle the electrical, but how do I maintain good track alignment? It will be used very frequently and I don’t wish to disturb the track integrity any more than I have to. Can someone give me some ideas please?”
Add your comments or suggestions to Steve’s post.
Train Club Members Share Their Tips
Here are a couple of useful tips from members of my Online Model Train Club. I’m sure you’ll find them helpful:
Club Member Penn gave this tip for Humps On Layout Joins
Sometimes the diluted glue/detergent mix used to ballast the trackwork can seep into the MDF (chipboard) joins where trackwork crosses over those joins. If the glue mix soaks in it can cause the join to swell at that point. This can create a pronounced hump and cause the track to lift. I’m sure you can imagine the problems that could cause and the problem could be tricky to fix.
So, it is better to avoid it happening in the first place. The trick is to seal the edges of the MDF board with undiluted PVA at the point where a track could cross. Before putting the track down I would paint all the track bed area with undiluted PVA. I would also use undiluted PVA to paint any areas that will be ballasted. To be on the safe side Iould extending the painting an inch or two beyound the area to be ballasted. I would thoroughly seal the MDF joins, screw holes, and any area where the diluted glue mix might penetrate. To be on the safe side I would give it another coat when dry. I would also seal any extra holes I might drill (such as point motor and wiring holes) before ballasting. I’ve had an expansion hump in a join under my track and I know how annoying it can be, so I’m now super careful.
Another member of my Online Train Club (Pete575) gave this tip for Easier Drilling
Drilling small holes into harder materials, can sometimes have its problems when the drillbit wanders as it attempts to gain bite. An example would be holes for grab irons. One solution is to imprint a small dimple in the hole location before drilling begins. You simply use a small awl., or a hard sharp pin and firmly press it in the base material to make a small pit. After doing that you place the tip of your drill bit in the pit and drill the way you normally would. Doing it this way can be much less frustrating.
You’ll get lots more tips, tutorials, and clever ideas each and every month inside my Online Model Train Club including ideas on:
- DCC
- Scenery Construction
- Trackwork
- Handy Tips
- Locomotives
- Articles
- Photo Gallery
- Product Reviews
- Track Plans
- Train Operation
- Detailing And Weathering
- Overcoming Problems
- Scratchbuilding and Structures
- Wiring And Control
- Videos With Ideas
- Answers To Model Railroad Questions
- Featured Layouts
- Supplier Lists
- Planning And Design
- Rolling Stock
- Step-By-Step Tutorials
- Maintenance And Repairs
- Wiring And Control
- Members Forum
- Expert Interviews
- Free Historical Books And Videos
- Benchwork
Join today!
My New Online Model Train Club Goes Live
The Exciting News Is Out!
After more than a year of planning and development my brand new online Model Train Club is now LIVE.
You can have a sneak peek at http://www.modeltrainclub.org
The “Members Only” Model Train Club includes sections on:
- scenery & layout construction ideas
- benchwork
- detailing and weathering
- locomotives
- maintenance and repairs
- train operation
- overcoming problems
- planning and design
- rolling stock
- scenery construction
- scratchbuilding and structures
- trackwork
- wiring and control
- DCC and …
After you join the Club you will be able to access a collection of step-by-step tutorials, how-to articles, photo galleries, plus lots of videos with clever ideas and…
There is even a member forum where you can chat, share ideas and ask the experts questions and …
Model Train Club members can also access a f.ree collection of historical railroad books, product reviews, there are expert interviews, handy ideas and tips and answers to your model railroading questions and… much, much more!
It’s all in the “Members Only” Model Train Club.
When you join, the club will keep you up to date with every aspect of this fascinating hobby… and it’s ALL IN ONE PLACE!
And, even better, exciting new content will be added each month.
The online Club will save you time and money in creating a model train layout you’ll be supremely proud of… with all the help you’ll need at your fingertips!
I know you are going to like this. http://www.modeltrainclub.org
Wiring Your Train Layout For DCC Operations
Keen model railroader Mike Williams contributes:
For those who are tired of the more traditional DC method of train operation, DCC Digital Command Control is always a viable option. DCC requires precise wiring, and it is a bit restrictive in some ways.
When building any train layout you will need to run wiring throughout your benchwork, and if you are not careful you will end up with your benchwork being immovable. For example, if you wire your table in such a way that the wires cannot be disconnected, or at least the circuit boards dismounted, you will have a bit of trouble taking your setup to a train show.
As far as your locomotives go, the first things you will need to take care of are the DCC decoder installations. Typically you will only be doing this on one train, but if you have more then you will need to make sure you have a DCC decoder for each of them. Most model trains will have the ability to be disassembled, and the decoder can be installed.
Mike is an enthusiatic model railroader who enjoys model trains and writing.
Powering Turnouts On HO Layout
Jim has a question for readers on powering turnouts and asks:
“I have 4 turnouts in my HO layout that need to be powered and the transformer that I have does not have a power outlet for accessories. How do I get power to the switches for the turnouts and what voltage should they be powered with? I also am in the process of building my benchwork and would like to know where the best outlet for the pink insulation board to set everything on.”
Have a go at answering Jim’s question below.
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