“Sorry for my ignorance but in simple terms what does code 100 mean? If I go with code 100 would I always need to use the same track code?”

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“I’ve decided on N scale for my new layout which has the potential to be 2ft-3ft deep in places in my 8ft x 10ft space. I also decided to model the late ’90s to the present day, but haven’t yet decided on an industry (industries) to incorporate. I had thought of logging & lumber, but there are probably better options these days. Ideas are definitely appreciated! Thanks in advance!”

You can contribute your suggestions below.

The post Which Industries To Model appeared first on Model Train Help Blog.

“I don’t want to sound like a scrooge, but the price of model paints seem expensive ranging from $4, $5, $6 for tiny bottles/cans up to $12 or more for spray rattle cans. I want to repaint an old 4-6-0 I picked up on eBay so presume enamel would be best? Scenery/structures I am thinking acrylic? Spray, can, bottle… not sure which way to go? It seems like I could end up buying dozens of different paints. Is there any easy cheaper way? What do other people have?”

Have your say below… and, see what others say too.

The post Model Paint Brands and Types – How They Compare appeared first on Model Train Help Blog.

Is DCC what I am looking for?

The DCC layout has several advantages over the conventional DC railroad model, but the end decision on whether or not you should get it for your project depends upon your considerations and requirements.

At the end of the day, it is all about ease of use, functionality, and worth based on the money. So, make sure you keep the following points in mind before deciding upon DCC as your final choice for your personal railroad model!

• The Size of the Project – The magic of DCC is fully felt in large-size models – they do not need to have extensive accessories and a large number of branches and multi-tracks, but the larger-than-life experience is what makes DCC so functional and popular amongst hobbyists.
• Even if your layout is simple, a large layout with multiple trains running within the same control simultaneously is what is the main advantage of DCC. However, if you want a small layout with only a single person operating a single train, then DCC won’t do anything special for you.
• Go for DCC if you wish to control more than one train on the same layout at the same time!
• The Number of Users to Operate the Model – DCC gives you the functionality of adding multiple throttles that can be used by different users at the same time to control different trains. The throttles can also be walk-around or wireless, which makes the experience more fun and exciting. So, if you are looking for that kind of multi-user experience, DCC should be the top choice on your list!
• The Final Track work Setup – DCC operation does not require any extensive wiring skills, but it should be done with care and expertise to avoid any disruptions and short circuits. The track will have to be clean at all times, and free from any kinks and additional switching that can complicate things.
  The existing wiring does not need to be changed much – just the BUS wires have attached feeders, which are then to be connected and soldered correctly to the track keeping the polarity in mind. Using different colored wires and a good wiring diagram will do the trick.
  You do need to have any exceptional wiring skills – basic soldering and usage of wiring equipment will work just fine. So, if you are a beginner looking for minimum hassle and a straightforward wiring criterion, DCC will work great for you!
• Cost and Budget Considerations – The DCC system may seem to be heavy on the pocket at the initial stages, because the investment in the decoders, the control station, and the boosters may seem to be pretty expensive.
  However, rest assured, a sound investment done once on the system will keep you happy and occupied for several years to come and you do not need to spend on any additional maintenance as well if you take the necessary measures for short circuits.
• Many inexpensive and cost-effective systems are easily available in the market. So, for the record, a DCC layout is well worth the money it comes for!

For more help on DCC go here

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“My son was just given an HO scale train set. It is a Golden Spike II with a Santa Fe engine on the box, but the model engine is a Burlington Northern. It is a 105 piece set. I am just interested in some information on the set. I tried searching, but I am a complete novice. Thank you in advance!”

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Can I Fit a Decoder on My Own?

Yes, you can! Installing a decoder on a locomotive is not a very difficult task, once you get the hang of the basic concepts involved in its operation.

However, it is advised that the first time you operate on a DCC layout; you get a decoder-fitted train to work on the model.

This will give you some time to learn about the working of the equipment and get familiarized with it before starting from scratch. Once you attain the knowledge and get familiar with the working criteria, you are all set to try the installation on your own!

In a nutshell,
• Decoder is like the working muscle in the DCC layout.
• It is responsible for assigning an address or loco number to the train.
• It also detects the signal incoming from the command station on the track rails and decodes it into the requested action for the locomotive.
• The decoder commands and powers up the motor for controlling its speed and basic direction settings.
• Optional commands that can be controlled by a decoder include controlling the back EMF and momentum and updating the speed table.
• The decoder also acts as a switched outlet and functions to power up the additional equipment like the driving headlights, any special light effects, and the sound.
• It is packaged as a chip, ready to be installed in the locomotive with a ‘plug and play’ action. Many locomotives also come with the ‘DCC fitted’ option, which means the decoder is already installed in them and they can be used as it is by the user. Such systems are ideal for beginners. Advanced users can program and install the decoder themselves as well for defining more custom functions and features.
• The price for the decoders depends upon the number of features it offers.
• When selecting the decoder, it is a good idea to go for NMRA compatible models so that they can work in conjunction with any throttle or command station you are using. Also, look at the power consumption of the decoder before adding it on to your locomotive.
• You can easily install and fit a decoder on your own, but opt for assistance from a friend or a technical professional in case you are confused about the different steps involved. You can also seek online help in this regard, there are a number of resources available that guide on the model and type of decoders that you should go for.
• There is no specific decoder that can be termed as the best choice for your locomotive. Different versions and brands seem to work for different people. So, at the end of the day, it is all about what you seek from the equipment and your own requirements that make the layout work like a charm for you.

For more help on DCC go here

The post Can I Fit a Decoder on My Own? appeared first on Model Train Help Blog.

“I discovered an easy way to make unpaved areas of ground surface such as gravel or sand. I now use differing grades and colors of sandpaper and adhere to your surface. I wish I had found out earlier. That’s life I guess.”

The post Easy Way to Make Unpaved Areas appeared first on Model Train Help Blog.

“I decided to build a retaining wall on a longish section of my layout and want to use the right adhesive. I imagine it will need some clamping to the wood while it dries in place, but I am concerned that contact cement might grip too quickly and not allow enough time for me to adjust and check the positioning. By the way, I thought foamboard might be the best and cheapest material to use for making the wall. I would be interested to hear any ideas. Thanks.”

The post Which Adhesive To Use? appeared first on Model Train Help Blog.

“This might help someone with the same problem I had. My Baldwin 4-6-0 loco was derailing after exiting a turnout onto my straight track section. No problem with my other 3 locos. I eventually checked the rail spacing widths and found the rails narrowed just enough causing the front wheels on my 4-6-0 to ride up and come off the track. It was hard to spot because by the time the loco stopped part of the 6 wheels would already be off the track. I think I might have accidentally narrowed and slightly bent the track when laying it. Apart from being careful handling track, this experience taught me to measure track and check rail spacing using a gauge, and to run the locos very slowly through troublesome areas to hopefully identify any problems. I hope my experience with this problem saves other people some time and frustration.”

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The post Rail Spacing and Distorted Track appeared first on Model Train Help Blog.

“Now if you are going to buy cheap, buy real cheap and use them for show. I buy real cheap Cars and use them on the layout in a number of ways. Old flat cars can be used for bridges, etc.”

Thanks for the quick tip James.

The post Cheap Rolling Stock appeared first on Model Train Help Blog.

“I not keen on using solvents like isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol). Is there any alternative I could use as a ballasting and scenery wetting agent? I have successfully used Windex glass cleaner in my airbrush to thin water-based paint. Would glass cleaner work as a wetting agent instead of isopropyl alcohol? Has anyone tried it or anything else?”

Add your comment below.

The post Alternatives to Isopropyl Alcohol for Ballasting Wetting Agent appeared first on Model Train Help Blog.

Jim made this general store building from a plan he downloaded at https://www.modelbuildings.org

“I downloaded your the small general store plan from your website and was very impressed with the results. I wanted to share a modification I made to the model that turned out better than I expected.

I like to have my models lit, so before I glued down the paper I decided to mark the inside corners of the windows on the cardboard with a straight pin, remove the paper and cut out the opening, and then glue on the paper.

To elaborate, what I did was cut out the cardboard and the picture separately. Then I put the picture over the cardboard and marked each inside corner of the windows with a straight pin. I wanted the holes to be as inconspicuous as possible on the paper copy. It is important that you mark the inside corners of the windows to get the right effect. Next, I removed the paper and connected the window dots that were made by the straight pin and cut out the openings in the cardboard. After all the openings were cut out I glued the paper onto the cardboard cutout, assembled the store, and voila, when I lit the store here is the effect I got. The only difficulty I had was keeping the cutouts registered with the paper’s windows when I folded the store into shape.

When lit up the results were very good. What impressed me was the illusion that the window looked like it was inside the store when lit. This was a fun project. I would really love some feedback on what you think of my modification.

Jim made this building as a youth in the ’60s. He cut out the windows and used low voltage incandescent lights hooked up to his transformer accessories.

As a youth, back in the mid-60s, I had a small HO train layout. I made this for my grandchildren who are now getting into HO trains. They loved it. I will be using this technique on future projects.

On the topic of electrical safety and heat output from lighting buildings, especially paper ones, I don’t have the expertise to advise anyone.

I don’t personally believe low voltage LED’s can produce enough heat to create a fire hazard, even in an enclosed space like the paper store model I made. I have not found any low voltage LEDs that have gotten more than warm to the touch.

The buildings I made in the ’60s as a youth had all the windows cut out and I used low voltage incandescent lights hooked up to my transformer’s accessories, so there was plenty of ventilation. For the picture I sent you, I set the store over one of the lamps I used back then.

My plan for the grandchildren is to use low voltage, warm white LED’s mounted on a stand or onto their layout board itself and set the buildings over the lamps. I feel comfortable with this decision, but I don’t feel comfortable advising others on the subject. It is something to think about when using this technique with your models.

The photo above is the house we lived in that I made as a youth for my train layout with the lamps I used. I have 5 other homes I made that were all lit up the same way. Considering how young I was at the time and the resources available to me back then it made for a nice looking layout.”

Jim has indicated he would like to hear ideas from others in the hobby, including comments on using LED lights, heat output, etc. If you have an article and photo you would like to share with others, please contact the Blog Moderator with details by using the ASK A QUESTION link below.

A free catalog of 200+ model building plans is available from https://www.modelbuildings.org

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