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Rolling Stock on Fleischmann Track

Adrian who models with HO trains asks readers:

“First of all thank you for adding me to the group. I am very much a Newbie and have purchased a Fleischmann DCC starter set which I have extended. I have a number of Fleischmann wagons and some Bachmann and Athern wagons which I purchased off ebay. I have a problem with the Bachmann and Athern wagons derailing on the points, The Fleischmann rolls through nicely. After comparing what maybe different I found the wheel diameter to be smaller and flange to be less on the Bachmann and Athern wagons. I think this may be the root cause? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.”

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5 Responses to Rolling Stock on Fleischmann Track

  • W Rusty Lanesays:

    First of all are you using the stock wheel sets that came on the wagons (Bachmann)? If so you may want to switch wheel sets and get you some metal wheel sets. If the Bachmann are smaller I would go to the next size up, i.e., if the standard wheel sets that came on your model are 33″ then go to the 36″ wheel sets. That may or may not fix your problem. I’m in the process of changing all my plastic wheel sets to metal ones. I use 33″ wheel sets on 40 foot wagons and on passenger coaches and anything over 75 ton wagons I use 36″ wheel sets. I have tried Intermountain and Walthers Proto 2000 wheel sets and I prefer the Walthers as I think they are better than the Intermountain.

  • Don rogerssays:

    their can varibles on wells, flanges, frogs, generly the flanges bump on the frogs and not on all frogs
    you can use a small hobby file, a flat one turn it on edge cut the grove slightly deeper where the problem is ( slightly )

  • David Stokessays:

    Adrian, modern trucks from the USA are usually RP25 profile and true to scale diameter, Fleishmann make beautifully engineered products but to their own set of standards. To get your RP25s to run without fault on Fleishmann track get yourself a National Model Railroad Assoc. Inc. track gauge for HO, and check your wheels for gauge and back to back compliance. The issue might also be with the track geometry as mentioned by Don Rogers. Use your NMRA gauge to check all the various measurements of the turnouts and approach track, making any adjusyments.

  • Adriansays:

    Thank you all for the recommendations.
    I have ordered some 36″ Metal wheels to try as a first step.
    I will send an update once trialled.

  • Bernard Hallassays:

    With regard to the suggested opening-out of points (switches) depth or gap between guard rail and rail, a file, even on edge, may be too thick, better use a piece of razor-saw blade, or junior-hacksaw blade.
    I have a shortened razor-saw blade (about 2″ long) which is much thinner than a file, and have used it as required. You can “thin-down” a piece of junior hacksaw blade on a grind-stone (remove some of the width of the kerf), so it’s just the blade metal thickness. You need to have the groove deeper maybe, not any wider.
    Check the back-to-back on the wheel sets, I have found some, quite new, were not within he expected range (I use a caliper gauge). As recommended, the NMRA track gauge would tell you if there’s a problem there.
    Good Luck

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