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9 Responses to Problem With Peco Joiners
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Take a piece of rail and file the ends at a 45 degree angle. Then use this piece of rail to spread the joiners. You may have to slightly move this side to side to widen the opening…..but do thus gently.
Best to drill a hole in a piece of thick dowel and put a bit of rail in the hole in case you have to use it again, I had to do this with Micro Engineering code 70 track.
When standing find a solid surface and push the joiner on using that as a solid base
Alan
Perth
Western Australia
Take a piece of rail and file one end to a sharp point. Slowly pushed the sharpened of the rail into the rail joiner. Just make sure the rail is not a larger gauge than the rail joiner is made for.
I have used a small flat head jeweller’s screw driver to open the end with to allow the rail to start. Use pliers to PULL the joiner on. If you push too hard they will buckle and render them useless.
I found Peco joiners don’t work well with Atlas track. I’d pitch them and buy Atlas joiners. They work with all brands.
Jimmie & Christopher comments are a good way to go.
I inserted one end of the scrap track (I’m modelling HO scale) into a scrap piece of wood roughly shaped as a handle; made it easier to control the scrap track.
The handle addition is a good idea. I forgot to mention, I also put about a 30 degree bend (upward) on the “tool” rail, insert a joiner on the end and use it to place the joiner on track. The angle helps when you have track already attached to the roadbed.
Check that they are the correct size, there are different types/sizes of track, even for a sinngle gauge.
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The code number for a rail size is the rail height in thousandths of an inch. This may be helpful: trains.com/mrr/videos-photos/videos/beginners/model-railroad-track-codes-defined/