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Problem Joints And Curves On Flex Track
Alan would like to hear from model railroaders who use fexi track:
“I am having a lot of trouble with smooth joints on curves where I have to make a joint in flex track. Even if I start with a fresh piece at the beginning of the curve I can’t make it all the way around. Then there is a goofy spot where ties have been removed and the track is joined. I have soldered the joints with a heat sink to prevent melting the remaining ties, but they still are not great. Does anyone know what I should do?”
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5 Responses to Problem Joints And Curves On Flex Track
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Alan: I think your problem is that you are trying to attach flex track while still in curve. As you attach the first piece od flex, pin it down, cut the first two ties from the rail but not off completely. Cut just the part that holds to the track. Take a piece of sandpaper and sand the ties a little so the joiners can slip on the rails. place other flex track and trim for the jointers and rail length. atttach flex track and pin it down. Then solder the rail joint if you want.
The radius of your curve has a lot to do with a smooth even joint. I have found that a radius of more then 26″ works well and the larger the better. Snap track for smaller curves such as 18″ or 22″ is the best answer. Another suggestion is to offset your joint. Make one rail an inch or so longer then the other. Carefully separate your ties from the rails,Do not break it off. If you use a cork roadbed simply use railroud spikes (HO for example) and carefully realign and spike the rails in place. As you said a sodered joint rather then a fish plate also works well. BUT it takes pacients and care. You will be pleased by soomth operation so the time spent is well worth it.
best of luck
Happy railroading
Dr Pete!
I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM YEARS AGO AND I CUT OFF THE INSIDE RAIL ABOUT A 1″ OR MORE TO MAKE THE OUT SIDE TRACK LINE UP WITH THE OTHER RAIL.
I have used a couple of long pieces of flextrack on my current layout for some non-standard curve radii (one greater than 22″ and the other between 18″ and 22″). Where the flex track has to have the ties trimed out to fit the rail joiners, I carefully cut the ties out and then when the track was in place and joined, I would use the cut pieces to replace the ties in an appropriate looking manner using the same adhesive to put them in place as I used to put the track in place with (bathroom tile caulk is what I use). It takes a little bit of extra time but it can fill in an empty spot and after the ballast id put down you can not tell the ties were ever missing.
Hey Alan: What I find to be most helpful to eliminate the kinking and track gage issue of makeing a joint in the middle of a corner is to solder the track in its natural straight (unstressed) position that way when you lay the track it will flow like a one long piece of ribbon rail.