Geof says:

Merl,

If you are using flex track with plastic ties, it is fairly easy to handle. You may have to carefully cut off JUST the simulated spikes & fish plates at each end of the track so that the rail joiner will seat properly and lay flat. Use an Exacto knife or razor blade to do this, taking care not to cut yourself.

Some people prefer to cut one or two sets of ties off altogether from the ends of the flex track, connect the rails with joiners and then slide the ties back under the joint after trimming off the the spikes & fish plates so the track will lay flat. After you ballast the track, the effect is still realistic looking.

One more approach that is a bit trickier but more prototypical is this method: When you lay down curved sections of flex track, one rail will get ‘shorter’ (the outside rail) and the inner rail will get ‘longer’. Instead of cutting the rails so the ends match up evenly with the next piece, try sliding the rails on the next section you are laying into the previously laid piece so that you are almost ‘threading’ the rails into place where the spikes & fish plates are. At the joint, carefully trim off the spikes & fish plates so the rail lies flat, similar to what you did in my first description. Put your rail joiner in place and then push the new rail into it so it is a snug fit & equally spaced between each rail end. If your curve is fairly sharp you may have to place small nails or spikes at the rail joint to help hold the track in position so that it is a smooth transition and not kinked. (Make sure the nails won’t interfere with the wheels on your rolling stock). This ‘sliding’ rail approach can also be used on straight sections which yields a very prototypical appearance to your track although I wouldn’t use it on switches unless you are hand making them.

The above process is admittedly more time consuming but your track will look much more realistic since real railroad track joints are staggered like yours will be.

Hope this helps,

Geof from the US