Model Trains
Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!
Tim has a question for readers on train wheels:
“You state that metal wheels are better and the price has come down. Where do people get them from? I run Lionel almost exclusively.”
Add your suggestions below.
Adolphus asks readers:
"Does anyone know of a source for purchasing replacement HO drive systems for the rubber band drives Athearn once used for their RDC's? I have two of these rubber band driven RDCs and would like to replace with a more modern drive system."
Milt asks readers for advice:
“I have several boat anchors of MTH Proto 1. How can I convert or does someone convert them to conventional operation. I do not need the electroncs, chuffing, just that they operate forward and reverse. Thanks.”
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A regular blog reader asks others to rate the quality of different brands of model trains. Maybe we should run one of our polls on the topic some time? I do see one problem that needs to be taken into consideration when rating brand quality and that is pricing and market positioning. Obviously some brands target the premium end of the market and price their locos and rolling stock accordingly. However, not every model railroader is in the position to spend hundreds of dollars buying a new locomotive for example, so other brands target the mass market and price their products accordingly (they cost less to buy). It really comes down to value for money and what people can afford. Fortunately there are a range of brands catering for different ends of the market. So, really it comes down to value for money.Now back to the reader question. He asks others for their opinions: "How would others rate the makers of model trains for their quality, performance, durability, and finish? If I had to pick a scale first would be N and second would be HO. Thanks for the opportunity to see your picks." I'm sure that there will be a number of different view points. You can have your say below.
Here is a reader question you might like to answer:
“I have an old tyco locomotive over 25 years old.The light works, the motors will not run. How do I check out the motors. Also can I clean the motors with something?”
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This is interesting to watch, although the guy who built this layout hasn’t got a camera that can capture the detail. It is a shame, but he is to be congratulated for creating something most of us couldn’t do. I know my eyesight would stop me from even trying.
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If you can assist Bill, please comment below.
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Bob has a question for anyone who can help him with his old Lionel locomotives:
“I just dug out my Lionels from the garage after 50 (that’s right, 50) years. I hooked up my ZW to a circle of old O27 track to test out my GP-7 diesel. I got nothing.
The green power light went on but no juice seemed to hit the rails. The red circuit breaker light not indicate a short. I switched the hook-up wire from the U-D posts to the U-A and got a small spark from the loco’s left front wheels but nothing else. I don’t have a voltage meter to check to see if the ZW is providing any power.
Admittedly the track may not be conducting well after all these years, but I thought I should get some kind of response from the engine which had always performed so flawlessly when I was a kid. Does anyone have any ideas as to how I can determine if the issue is the transformer or the GP-7?”
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Ray has a question for readers:
“I have four Bachmann GP40 engines but which brand is better to pull more rolling stock up a small grade on my layout? It is only six inches high and over nine feet of run on either side. All my freight car are near four ounces or 100 grams each engine. One will only pull five cars and a caboose.”
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"How does the smoke unit work on Amercian flyer, model 343?"
To help Rich, add your answer using the green comments link below this posting.