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Here are a couple of questions that are fully answered in the online model train club members area.
In the meantime, readers might like to provide the answers:
George asks:
“How can I make simulated water. What material can I use to do a good job making water and make it simple for me.”
Gary asks:
“I know N guage is smaller that HO, but where does O or OO fit in?”
Richard asks:
“What are the 3 track rails used for?”
Add your answers below.
Guillermo, from the Patagonia Argentina has a question for readers:
"I want add overhead catenary line in part of my layout. I haven`t got information for a proper installation? Thanks for the help."
Add your comment or answer below.
The results of the recent poll revealed 51% of the 1047 model railroaders surveyed operate DCC. I actually thought the figure might have been a little higher than that (38% operate DC and 9% didn’t have a layout yet).
There are definite advantages for both systems, and I would never try and push anyone into DCC if they are already comfortable with DC and don’t want to change. That said; I would recommend DCC operation for anyone starting off in the hobby as the system is very versatile and fast becoming the norm. Whichever system you operate, always remember the whole idea is to have fun and enjoy what you are doing!
No matter if your layout is small or garage-sized, and though it is good to model a specific time period/road, the main consideration is to do what makes you happy. If you like to see a Burlington Northern SD pulling a string of old Central Pacific box cars, then go right ahead and know that no railroad “law enforcement” will arrest you for that. The layout is YOURS alone, and that’s what makes our hobby great!
A total of 483 model railroaders voted in our last poll which asked, “Which type of couplers do you use most?”
The results were:
Horn-Hook Couplers 11%
Knuckle Couplers 69%
Combination 14%
Other 6%
John sent in some info on his N scale layout for publication:
This is a German Epoch lll freelance N scale layout situated on the Rhine. It includes part of the river with a barge and two stations.
The layout is approximately 4 1/2 x 3 feet and consists of two parallel ovals each with a passing loop. A backscene about 9ins from the rear allows an unseen area and trains enter and leave this by means of two tunnels. The layout is landscaped with a village scene in the center.
One of the ovals is AC powered and includes non-working overhead catenary towers. The other is DCC. Track is pre-ballasted Fleischmann Piccolo with electrically operated points on the AC circuit.
Locomotives are steam Classes 38, 64 and 50. I also operate an electric E19 and a diesel Class V 200. Both passenger and goods trains run on the layout.
Larry wants to hear from anyone who models the Civil War era and asks:
“Does any one know a good source for rolling stock that can be kit-bashed to use in the Civil War era? I’m working on my first layout and have chosen my hometown of Tuscumbia, Alabama as the prototype. I will have an out and back between Tuscumbia and Decatur carrying cotton, lumber and goods from the North to Tuscumbia Landing on the Tennessee River for loading onto steamboats. I would love to hear comments from anyone who has modeled this era in the South.”
Add your suggestions below.
Kent sent in some details of his project to share with others in the hobby:
“I started this project to complement my home office computer workstation. I originally intended to have just one section, but the project has now grown to twice the original size. My workstation is an L shape. One module will be on the right side of the L, and the other section will be on the opposite side of the L. The two sections will be connected by runners that will have turnouts to park different cars. One turnout will be used for log cars, another for freight and tanker cars, and the last for a set of old time Overton cars. The entire layout is modular, and meant to be taken apart when needed.”
There were 1371 votes from 732 respondents in our recent poll which asked, Which decade do you model?
Respondents could select more than one era if required, hence the difference in numbers.
The numbers favored the timeline from 1940 to 1970 with 713 people registering a vote. 1950 to 1960 recorded the highest results (312 people model that decade).
Full details are as follows:
Pre 1900 = 37
1910 -1920 = 36
1920 -1930 = 65
1930 -1940 = 115
1940 -1950 = 224
1950 -1960 = 312
1960 – 1970 = 177
1970 -1980 = 110
1980 – 1990 = 77
1990 – 2000 = 71
2000 -2010 = 76
2010 – Present Day = 71
No particular era = 129
In the last poll we asked “Do you operate DCC on your layout?”
Well, the results were very interesting….
1047 had their say…
Those who said YES I operate DCC = 538 (51%)
Those who said NO I don’t operate DCC = 406 (38%)
Those who replied – I don’t have a layout yet = 103 (9%)
The latest poll question about train eras was sent in by Richard – thanks Richard.
If you would like to suggest a poll question, simply use the “Ask a question” link at the bottom of this blog.
Richard asks readers:
“I’m starting on a 4×8 layout with double ovals and a small yard inside the inner oval. im running on DC for now. I have a loco that can also run on dcc. My question is can I just switch over to DCC even if my switches are insulated Atlas switches? Any special wiring I need to know about? For now my layout is just flat landscape.”
Add your answers below to help Richard.
I’m sure you’ll find the results of the last poll fascinating. I total of 860 people responded, with a staggering 43 % having eleven or more locomotives in their collection. Here are the detailed results:
1 = 16 votes (1%), 2 = 46 votes (5%), 3 = 57 votes (6%), 4 = 68 votes (7%), 5 = 60 votes (6%), 6 = 63 votes (7%), 7 = 55 votes (6%), 8 = 36 votes (4%), 9 = 29 votes (3%), 10 = 40 votes (4%), 11+ = 375 votes (43%), I don’t have any locos yet 15 votes (1%)
It is really handy to be able to easily move your layout (or sections of it) if required. Most people discover this when they move house. Moving the furniture is easy, but moving a layout can be problematic.
This informative manual describes how to build a mobile model train layout, so you don’t have to begin again when you move house. You can read how a modular train layout can save you money as well as taking up less space.
You’ll really enjoy this! It includes photos, tips and a layout plan included. Get it now for free when you join my online Model Train Club.
Peter from South Africa has sent in this photo of his layout and writes:
In November I went down to cape town for a few days and bought a class 25 condenser from a friend there which is a 4-8-4 and the total length of the loco and condensing unit is 42cm so it’s large and was assured that it would fit through my 18-22 inch radius curves but alas it did not so had to add 30cm to the one side and 50cm to the end of the board to accommodate 32-36 inch radius curves and had to build a new section to the board.
I am attaching a photo of the board and the loco for everyone to see. My board is 6 meters in length that is one side plus 1.25cm across which gives me a running track on the main line of almost 16 meters. As my layout is based on south african railways in the 1960’s to late 2008 I have deisels and steam on my board and is based on a small south african village in the cape province.
Cedric who is a member of my Online Model Train Club sent in his thoughts on pricing secondhand trains.
Because I have been in the hobby about 40 years and attend lots of train shows I get asked a lot about the value of secondhand trains. It is difficult to give an exact answer because it really depends on what some will pay on the day and how many buyers there are for that particular loco or car.
A lot also depends on whether the item has been modified, weathered, or is in its original condition with original boxing. Depending on the brand and condition, sometimes the value will increase if the loco or rolling stock has not been modified in any way.
In general I have found that weathering will devalue the item useless it has been done to an extremely high standard, in which case the reverse could apply and the value increase. Cars that are factory weathered can retain their value as they are factory stock as opposed to being modified by a home hobbyist.
Rare items (such as rare brass locomotives) should increase in value, but modifications to the factory paint and finish of rare items could devalue them.
When it comes to rolling stock, the value can increase based on any upgrades such as the addition of better trucks and metal wheels etc. A buyer might be prepared to pay a little more for upgrades if it saves them the cost and effort of them having to upgrade the item.
A final tip is to keep all the packaging and printed instructions that originally came with the item. This will help the resale value if or when you come to sell.