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Layout Built Without Track Plan
Earl wants to hear from anyone who can help him solve a problem with his layout:
“I have a big dilemma…I’m building a railroad based on childhood memories while spending the summers at my grandmother’s home in Rocky Mt., VA. The Norfolk & Western trains passed about thirty yards from the house and the rumble of the long freight trains would rock me into a very deep and peaceful sleep.
I think my layout is taking great shape. My track is laid and finally smooth but I didn’t use a track plan.
My dilemma: I just mentioned that I didn’t use a track plan and although my trains were running and jumping the tracks on my original layout, I fixed that problem and now am not able to get any movement. I think I’ve crossed a wire or missed some step. Although I’ve gone through the entire schematic several times, I still can’t locate the problem. I’ve been extremely patient (started project last July) but am becoming really frustrated and I need help. Any suggestions from anyone who is reading this please?
To help Earl add your feedback using the green comments link below.
14 Responses to Layout Built Without Track Plan
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Earl, I’m no expert but I have found a basic unit for testing current extremely useful. First check that power does feed to your track by testing across the ends of the cable. Then start close to your power feed and check progressively until you locate a fault. Fix it, and keep testing until you’ve done the whole layout. If the tester says all is OK then it will be!
I have had similar problems.
Alan
Start at the very beginning. Disconnect the wires from your power pack to the layout. Beg, borrow, or purchase a voltmeter – or simply use a low voltage light (12-20 volts) bulb with some wires attached. Check the output from the fixed voltage terminals. Anything? Probably should get a reading of about 16 volts or if using the bulb, it should light. Also try the variable output terminals that would normally connect to the track (be sure the throttle position is all the way up). Anything now? If nothing from either set of outputs, search the power pack for a reset (circuit breaker) button or switch. Reset that and try the tests again. If nothing, then the power pack is probably shot, given that there is a live outlet that the power pack is plugged into. Also be sure the power pack is “on” (Sorry, I’m only trying to cover all the bases). If everything tests out OK thus far, make up a short test track. This only needs to be a section of flextrak or a few sections of sectional track that you connect to the variable output terminals of the power pack. A terminal track makes this easy. Place your loco on the test track and open the throttle. Any movement? If yes, then you have a problem with the layout wiring, such as a bad feeder(s), a bad/shorted block switch, bad/shorted reversing switch, reversing loop wired incorrectly, bad rail joiners, short across the rails, etc. If there isn’t any movement on the test track, then the locomotive is at fault. Try another one and see if it works on the test track. If yes, then see above for possible problems. Does this happen on the entire layout, or just in certain sections? If you have a good power pack and locomotive, try isolating sections of the layout from the whole layout to narrow down where the problem is, assuming that the switches, etc., checked out. Hard to trouble shoot not being there, but I hope this helps. Let me know how things turn out and post again if I can help more.
Sincerely, Dennis Finegan
I totally agree,you need to start testing your layout with a multimeter just set it at the volt range ie DC and start at power in to lines.A reasonable meter will also give an audio signal if you have a short.Best of luck.Tom
Earl,
First, are you using a transformer or the new DCC power system? Jack
Electric problems:
My suggestion is a VOM meter (volt ohm and amp)in dc mode. If you have the volts (measured) and can draw the amps without lowering the voltage,it will run.
Start from the transformer and measure every few track segments until you find the change.
Good luck, Ralph
chinsHello Earl,
I’ve had problems with transformers after alot of use.I was scatching my head wondering what was going on. then I tested track,wire and then transformer.I found the transformer was not putting out voltage all the time.I was just useing it? A volt,VOM meter is the best way to go. You can get them for around $9.. Dave
I think Alan has the right idea. You should start with your power supply. Recently I found that my small layout, which worked perfectly at Xmas, would barely move my locomotives, even after cleaning the track with 91% alcohol. I have 3 different power packs and will try it with all 3. The power feeds appear to be OK (continuous wire from soldered connections to the outside of the rails. If all else fails, I will hit the rails with 10 micron polishing paper (you cannot feel the abrasive, it is so fine). You can buy testing devices that will indicate, when laid on the rails, whether power is flowing or if there is a short. Good luck.
You didn’t say whether or not you were using DCC or 12volts. Either way, it sounds like a short. Most often with new layouts these are caused by reverse loops – even tiny ones. The tester mentioned before with also check for shorts. Use it as a continuity tester – some beep at you with a short and some just peg the meter, You really can’t run a RR without a good multimeter! My 2 cents worth, Pat
I assume that the layout is HO.
There seems to be a lack of power somewhere on Earl’s layout. There are a couple of tools that might help find the problem.
1) The use of a Volt-Ohm-Milliamp (VOM) meter set to the DC Volts scale is best. By placing one probe on one rail and the other probe on the second rail (and sliding them along the rails) one can see if there is voltage on the track.
2) A simpler suggestion is the use of a bidrectional LED available from Radio Shack or local eleoctronics store. Being bi- directional the LED will burn red when current flows in one direction and green when current flows in the opposite direction. Be sure to place a current limiting resistor (usually 330-500 ohms) in series with the LED. Just slide the leads of this LED and resistor device along the rails to find where the LED does not light and there is the dead section. It will also show if the polarity is reversed.
good luck.
Tom
One tool to help trackdown electrical problems is a simple and cheep continuity tester, available at any hardware store. I have found many frustrating mistakes using one. Good luck.
Cliff
I have built crazy layouts also this way, even different gauges at same time, when I was younger and less accurate, on same 8×8 board. Assumuming that the basics are good, power pak, soldered track and connections and locomotives are operational, you probably have a short. These next ideas may sound stupid but it is usually the simple things that get us in trouble especially with wiring. Looking at your layout from one side did you cross phase the wires on the track ex: keep out side track w/ outside track and inside w/ inside A and B continuity. I like to use different color coded wires for all my wireing. Do you have insulator connectors in the right position again A and B track to segregate a line, I like to do both so there is no question, it takes a little more work but worth it to me. Do you have a reverse loop in your layout, this I will not go into because it can be confusing w/o a diagram, Atlas explains this in one of their layout books, worth the cost and gives you more ideas for you layout, mix and match. Difficult but pretty easy to correct. I hope this helps.
Tony
I agree with Alan, and multitesters have come down in price. If you have a Harbor Freight near you, you can get a basic one for under $5. Otherwise try a Radio Shack or similar electronics store. If you are using DC, test the same polarity at each site. If the meter shows minus voltage, you might have wires reversed. I use different color wires to maintain polarity. If you are using DCC, your command center should give you an audible warning if you have crossed wires (short circuit).
Earl, seems like your problem started after you fixed you rough track problem, I would say that area is your problem since you were running before you did that. I would go back to that part of your track and check that out for crossed wires, bad connection or whatever.
I have found that the easiest way to check track curcuits is to build a temporary unit that clips onto the track wherever you want it. Hte unit touches both rails with two LEDs wired in reverse so one color lights up with DC positive and lightsd up with a different color if the current is reversed. You can put these anywhere and they draw so little current that you can cover your whole layout at once if you want. I run American Flyer (AC, not DC) so I use the same technique. I unplug the AC transformers and hook on a AA battery instead and it works great.