Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!
Digitrax Control
Doug asks readers:
“I purchased an HO Scale Digitrax DCS 210 with a DT602 Controller. I can’t seem to get my engines to run and was wondering if there was a resource that could help me program in my engines so that I could run them? I know the engine works as when you put it on the track you can hear the motor running.”
Shimming Track For Bridge Abutments
Michael has HO scale and writes:
“I read abutments at the end of bridges serve to support the structure and foundations from the horizontal and vertical loads that get placed on them. I will need to determine the necessary heights and widths needed to support the bridge and track elevation, with my main concern being how to maintain level track over joins leading to and over the bridge. I am very much in the early planning stages so want to get my head around the process before I start out. Any help would be good. THX”
You can post your comments and suggestions under this post.
Careful Track Planning From The Beginning To Avoid Potential Problems Further Down The Track
There’s no point in spending time, effort, and money building what you thought was the perfect layout, only to modify it or start all over again. That is very different from improving it because there’s nothing wrong with making positive changes and expanding your railroad as and when your skills develop. Most model railroaders do that – their railroad progresses as they progress.
Making the track curves too tight
With the pressures of fitting everything into a layout, there will always be the temptation to make the curves tighter than they should be. This is typically fraught with problems, even if you have done some test runs with locomotives and cars around the curve.
Even if the trains run okay –
Does the tight track curve look natural? If you are modeling a modern-era railroad, rolling stock lengths are much longer these days than they were in the past. Long cars make the curves look even sharper than they are.
Would a real railroad have curves that tight? The answer to this is always a resounding “no.” Real railroad curve radii are much larger than can be accurately modeled in a reasonable space. The best that can be done is to make the curves as large as your space will permit, then use some scenic tricks to distract the viewers from the appearance.
What happens when you buy a new loco or longer car that won’t make it safely around the curve? This goes back to the era in which you choose to model. A setting with large late Steam-era articulated locos is not a good decision for a minimal space. Logging and mining or switching puzzle layouts with shorter rolling stock are better choices if your situation requires sharp curves.
The golden rule is this; make the minimum radius AT LEAST as large as recommended for the longest car you plan to run on your layout. That way you won’t have any regrets later.
Watch This Step-By-Step Demonstration Showing How To Make This Workshop Which Could Also Be Used As A Farm Building. Make As An HO Scale, OO Scale, Or N Scale Structure. See How In This Short Video …
This scale model building could be used as a workshop, small warehouse, garage, or farm equipment shed. You can make it to HO scale, N scale, or N scale – and even add the translucent skylights as demonstrated in this quick video. You can download the plans here https://www.modelbuildings.org/farm-buildings-pack-deal-c
Dented Gondola Cars
Rich models HO and asks:
“Recently watched several shallow gondolas go by, most of them were badly dented and ‘sway-backed’ in the middle. Probably scrap service or headed for scrap themselves. I remember a model train article about carefully using heat to warp and dent cars. Does anyone have suggestions of how to replicate this? Thanks”
Wiring of Engines
Jim models HO scale and asks readers:
“I Love the old ‘Blue Box’ Athearn engines. They are easy to work on. I have two questions relative to the wiring of those engines.
First off – If I hardwire the engine, where do I solder the ‘Negative’ wire to on the frame, or drill a hole for a screw.
Secondly – I would like to run an A – B – A consist correctly. what do I have to do to make the second ‘A’ unit run backward to the first unit?
I am HO and run on a DC layout
Thank You for any held or suggestions. And no, I am toooo old for DCC!!!”
Layout Wiring With DCC
Andy models N scale and posts this question for readers:
“I am about to start wiring my layout and using DCC. My Power Bus starts at the outlet of the DCC connection but what is the best way to ‘anchor’ or ‘finish’ the other end of the bus? Thanks, Andy M (Wiring Newbie).”
If you can assist Andy, please post your suggestions below his post.
Reader Shares Photo and Thoughts on Constructed Model of Old General Store Building
Well done to Robert C, from NC 28012, in the USA who build this great looking model.
Robert writes – “The color and the graphics are fantastic. The prints are marked clearly, so you know where to scribe or to cut. I use 140 LB cardstock for the models. I also model the buildings in basswood and plastic. The files are easy to download. Once again the prints are excellent. I am sending photos of my version of the General Store.”
You can download the same plan here
https://www.modelbuildings.org/wild-west-town-pack-deal-c/
If you have a photo of a model you have made from the ModelBuildings.org website and would like to share it with other enthusiasts on the internet, then simply send it using the “Ask a Question” link below this post. We won’t publish your full name unless you request us to do so. Add a few words to share with readers too, and your photo might be chosen for publication.
Volt/Amp Monitor For Measuring Locomotive Load Requirements
Rich models HO scale and posts this question for readers:
“I am considering a purchase of an inexpensive, Chinese monitor to see the outputs of my MRC Tech II 2400 as well as load required by my locomotives. The unit I like provides Voltage measurement range of DC 0-100V, Current measurement range of 0-10A and the Power supply needed is DC 7-12V
I assume the voltage and amps come off the power unit’s Variable DC outlets and the power supply needed for the monitor comes off the Non-variable DC. Are there other alternatives anyone can suggest? Thanks in advance.”
Please add any suggestions below to assist Rich.
Please note – Readers are responsible for ensuring the safety of anything electrical and should seek specialist electrical advice when required.
Life-Like P2K SW9
Rich writes:
“I just picked up an HO Life-Like Proto 2000 SW9 DC in Canadian National livery. It seems to run well on my test track except no headlight. I would love to get hold of a parts schematic. I found an image labelled ‘Fig. 1A Exploded Parts Drawing — Body Shell — Page 4’ that looks like it might be for my model but I’m not sure. Can someone suggest another source please?”
If you can advise Rich, then please post your suggestions below under COMMENTS.
Track Codes
James is interested in HO scale and asks readers:
“The last train set I had was in 1996. Back then it was just buy the track and put your set together. Now, there are codes on everything! ARRRG!! Could someone walk me thru what they all mean?”
You can respond to James below.
Joining Kato Tunitrak to PECO N55
Alvin asks:
“I am currently running on Peco N gauge 55 track and would like to gradually convert some modules to Kato Unitrack
Q. Is there a way to join N gauge Peco 55 and Unitrack to work efficiently? Has anyone tried to do that?”
Please post your comments under this post.
Minimum Track Radius
Ronnie asks:
“In HO is there a minimum acceptable track radius based on various car or loco lengths? My main concern right now is 2 axle 4 wheel truck diesels compared to 3 axle 6 wheel truck diesels. Thanks for any help.”
Please post any suggestions directly underneath this post.
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