Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!
Dented Gondola Cars
Rich models HO and asks:
“Recently watched several shallow gondolas go by, most of them were badly dented and ‘sway-backed’ in the middle. Probably scrap service or headed for scrap themselves. I remember a model train article about carefully using heat to warp and dent cars. Does anyone have suggestions of how to replicate this? Thanks”
Wiring of Engines
Jim models HO scale and asks readers:
“I Love the old ‘Blue Box’ Athearn engines. They are easy to work on. I have two questions relative to the wiring of those engines.
First off – If I hardwire the engine, where do I solder the ‘Negative’ wire to on the frame, or drill a hole for a screw.
Secondly – I would like to run an A – B – A consist correctly. what do I have to do to make the second ‘A’ unit run backward to the first unit?
I am HO and run on a DC layout
Thank You for any held or suggestions. And no, I am toooo old for DCC!!!”
Layout Wiring With DCC
Andy models N scale and posts this question for readers:
“I am about to start wiring my layout and using DCC. My Power Bus starts at the outlet of the DCC connection but what is the best way to ‘anchor’ or ‘finish’ the other end of the bus? Thanks, Andy M (Wiring Newbie).”
If you can assist Andy, please post your suggestions below his post.
Reader Shares Photo and Thoughts on Constructed Model of Old General Store Building
Well done to Robert C, from NC 28012, in the USA who build this great looking model.
Robert writes – “The color and the graphics are fantastic. The prints are marked clearly, so you know where to scribe or to cut. I use 140 LB cardstock for the models. I also model the buildings in basswood and plastic. The files are easy to download. Once again the prints are excellent. I am sending photos of my version of the General Store.”
You can download the same plan here
https://www.modelbuildings.org/wild-west-town-pack-deal-c/
If you have a photo of a model you have made from the ModelBuildings.org website and would like to share it with other enthusiasts on the internet, then simply send it using the “Ask a Question” link below this post. We won’t publish your full name unless you request us to do so. Add a few words to share with readers too, and your photo might be chosen for publication.
Volt/Amp Monitor For Measuring Locomotive Load Requirements
Rich models HO scale and posts this question for readers:
“I am considering a purchase of an inexpensive, Chinese monitor to see the outputs of my MRC Tech II 2400 as well as load required by my locomotives. The unit I like provides Voltage measurement range of DC 0-100V, Current measurement range of 0-10A and the Power supply needed is DC 7-12V
I assume the voltage and amps come off the power unit’s Variable DC outlets and the power supply needed for the monitor comes off the Non-variable DC. Are there other alternatives anyone can suggest? Thanks in advance.”
Please add any suggestions below to assist Rich.
Please note – Readers are responsible for ensuring the safety of anything electrical and should seek specialist electrical advice when required.
Life-Like P2K SW9
Rich writes:
“I just picked up an HO Life-Like Proto 2000 SW9 DC in Canadian National livery. It seems to run well on my test track except no headlight. I would love to get hold of a parts schematic. I found an image labelled ‘Fig. 1A Exploded Parts Drawing — Body Shell — Page 4’ that looks like it might be for my model but I’m not sure. Can someone suggest another source please?”
If you can advise Rich, then please post your suggestions below under COMMENTS.
Track Codes
James is interested in HO scale and asks readers:
“The last train set I had was in 1996. Back then it was just buy the track and put your set together. Now, there are codes on everything! ARRRG!! Could someone walk me thru what they all mean?”
You can respond to James below.
Joining Kato Tunitrak to PECO N55
Alvin asks:
“I am currently running on Peco N gauge 55 track and would like to gradually convert some modules to Kato Unitrack
Q. Is there a way to join N gauge Peco 55 and Unitrack to work efficiently? Has anyone tried to do that?”
Please post your comments under this post.
Minimum Track Radius
Ronnie asks:
“In HO is there a minimum acceptable track radius based on various car or loco lengths? My main concern right now is 2 axle 4 wheel truck diesels compared to 3 axle 6 wheel truck diesels. Thanks for any help.”
Please post any suggestions directly underneath this post.
Electronic Turn Switches With Toggle Wires
Chuck from Canada models 027 and asks:
“Can I use an American Flyer toggle switch control on a Lionel electronic switch (turn out)? How do I wire four wires: black, yellow, red and green from a toggle switch control to a Lionel electronic switch with 3 terminals. Are there any colored diagrams to show me.”
Please reply below if you can assist Chuck.
Walthers GP9m and Blunami PNP8 on a GP15-1. DCC Conversion.
Stephen model HO scale and asks:
“Has anybody converted these to DCC successfully? And if so, how did you do it? I tried installing a WOWKit that was supposed to be the right fit, but soon after install, the decoder fried and I deemed it a loss. The motherboard seems to be fine, but I’m not sure where to go on from here. I had a partially successful install of the Blunami PNP8 on a GP15-1, so I’m thinking of making the switch. Thoughts?
Construct Tunnels and Tunnel Portals for Your Model Train Layout. Watch These Quick Tips and Ideas.
If you want some color plans to make your own tunnel portals go here
https://www.modelbuildings.org/walls-tunnels-bridges
Download your Free Catalog here http://www.modelbuildings.org/Free-Catalog.html
Fitting a Decoder to a Tomytec Chassis
Geoff runs OO9 (OO narrow gauge – runs on n gauge track) and asks readers:
“I am trying to fit a decoder to the Tomytec chassis TM-07R. The chassis works fine on my DC test track, and the decoder is fine on my decoder tester. But when I put the two together, everything is fine at first, then after a few minutes it slows to half speed, then it randomly starts and stops, and then it goes to full speed, at which point it doesn’t obey commands to slow down, and I have to use the emergency stop button.
I’ve tried with two different chassis, and two different decoders (same brand), same result. My system is the NCE Powercab with their SB5a booster. All my other DCC locomotives (that were fitted with decoders at the factory) work fine.”
SUBMIT YOUR QUESTION
Download Your Free Catalog
Use Tiny Railroad Micro Controllers
Model Train Help Ebook
