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Derailments at Switches
Larry posts this question to readers:
“I recently set my pre-1980s N-gauge train up after it was in a box for fifty-some years. I set up a temporary oval track with no switches and was absolutely amazed and excited that it still works. Now I am working on a permanent layout and purchased some new track pieces including manual switches, all code 80 which matches my old track. My problem is derailments at the switches and I believe the cause, thanks to the tips here, to be the old wheels on my locomotives and rolling stock. I shopped around online to buy new wheels and quickly got lost. My first question is if RP27 the correct standard or should it be RP25? My second question is how can you tell for sure if you are buying wheels made to the correct standard? I see lots of wheels for sale from multiple manufacturers but they don’t have details on specifications. I have all old style couplers as well but am hoping to get away with just replacing the wheels. Thanks in advance for any and all help!
Best Turnout For Siding With 22 Radius Curve
Julius models in HO scale and posts this question for readers:
“I am using the Bachmann EZ Track (Grey Roadbed) for my track layout. I have recently started (less than two months) and am having an issue finding the correct turnout needed to create a siding. Do your readers know which turnout (Remote, #4, #5, #6) would be best for me?”
You can post your answers or comments below this post to assist Julian.
Rolling Stock Scheduled Maintenance
Patrick asks:
“My collection of passenger and freight cars is growing and it could be time to collate a maintenance schedule of some kind. Wheel sets, weight, couplers, loose parts, pivots, etc. Am I overthinking problems, or should I just look each one over or test for rollability before I put it on the track?”
Please add your COMMENTS under Patrick’s post.
Bridge Building On Scale Model Railroads – See How
There are many ways to construct bridges and the method used usually depends on the type, size, and style of bridge being built. This quick video demonstrates one popular method.
You can download the plans to build this and other bridges here
Loco Wheels Spinning
Richard has this question for readers:
“Hello, I have a Marx 999 and when applying power to the engine only the wheels spin and it doesn’t move. Is there an adjustment on the copper shoe? I can push the shoe and it springs back fine. When I give it a push it moves a little but stops and the wheels continue to spin? Thank you in advance.”
Digitrax DCS 52/Tsunami PNP8 Programing
Randy asks readers:
“I am a newbie and am confused. I have two HO scale locos which are DCC. Both have been running. Now one still runs but one does not. When power is applied the loco begins the start-up sequence sounds but nothing else. I don’t know where to start.”
NEM Couplers (Farish, Dapol) Constantly Uncoupling
Shaun models N scale and has this question for readers:
“I’m tired of my NEM couplers uncoupling and was hoping for advice as to what these could be replaced with? Or for suggestions on how to keep them coupled?”
Please post your comments below to assist Shaun.
Constructing Scale Model Houses
The above photo was snapped at the Carter Model Railroad Museum Train Show, ETSU, in Johnson City, Tennessee.
See the range of scale model house plans to download at
Difficulties Coupling and Uncoupling Smaller Scale Model Trains
Tony asks:
“I have never had a go with N scale, but have done HO operations. I raise this because I’m about to go with either HO or N scale for my new layout. Yard operations is what I like doing best so I assume with N scale I can probably do more in a smaller space. My reservation is uncoupling and coupling rolling stock and whether N scale is as easy as HO, or will I encounter more problems. I just thought someone might enlighten me. Thanks in advance.”
You can read and post your comments directly under this post.
Here’s How to Build an HO Scale, OO, or N Scale Grain Elevator For Your Model Train Layout
Download – Print – Build your own scale model farm buildings. See the range here
Why Some Model Train Layouts Are Too Predictable
The reason some model train layouts turn out better than others often comes down to realism and aesthetics. To look realistic and not “toylike,” a layout should not be too predictable in design. A mainline running close to the edge of a standard 4ft x 8ft space and then curving at the end to form an oval will look “toylike” unless there is clever scenery or props to disguise the predictable track configuration. Where possible, it usually looks more realistic to include gentle curves (just like on a real railroad) and position the mainline at a slight angle from the edge of the benchwork. Hiding the curves with tunnels or hill cuts effectively distracts the eye from the fact that the train is running around an oval.
Another alternative is to make the layout point-to-point. Real railroads work this way so why not yours? Unless your whole purpose is to run the train in a continuous loop, a point-to-point layout featuring two separate industries or towns that exchange goods is the most realistic way you can operate. Remember, though, to figure out how to turn the locomotives around at each end. A turntable, wye, or reversing loop may be necessary but they also offer additional challenges as well as interest and convenience. The available space is obviously a big factor to also consider.
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