Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!
Peco Electrofrog Turnouts
Stan asks:
“I have DCC and plans for 2 reserve loops, and to replace my #6 custom turnouts with #8 large radius turnouts. Will I need to cut the wire to the wing rail and solder power feeders to the rail and points, or can I just use insulated rail joiners? I want to do it just once and do it right, so would like to know why other guys do. Thank you.”
5 Responses to Peco Electrofrog Turnouts
Leave a Reply
SUBMIT YOUR QUESTION
Download Your Free Catalog
Use Tiny Railroad Micro Controllers
Model Train Help Ebook
See the relevant Youtube video from Charlie Bishop’s Chadwick. He has an excellent tutorial on preparing electrofrog points.
I’m sure the latest iteration of the Peco Eletrofrog points don’t have the bits that needed to be cut in earlier versions. Mine certainly didn’t need anything cut when I used them in a simple setup, DC not DCC, for my grandson last year, and have been working perfectly ever since.
I have two reverse loops on my layout with Peco Electrofrog switches. You need to use insulated jointers on the switch wing. I use a Digitrax AR-1 to control each loop.
I mad a mistake in my previous comment. You need to insulate your reverse at both ends.
With over 50 Peco electrofrog turnouts on my DCC layout the only way to use them and get your locos through them trouble free is to cut and solder to isolate and power the frog. Insulating joiners are an absolute necessity for the frog rails. As to powering the point rails you can gamble on the connection between the point and stock rails but I prefer to have a solid link which requires a soldered wire . A classic example of belt and suspenders.