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Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!
Online Model Train Club member Erik shared this suggestion:
“I know some folk in the hobby use masking tape to hold small screws and parts to stop them rolling under the layout and getting lost. It is a very good idea, but I have another option to add to that.
My local hardware store sells small 5″ bowls with a magnet attached. One of these bowl is ideal for holding small steel parts.”
Robert M models N scale and asks:
“I am just starting out in model railroading and would like to change the trucks on my passenger cars to 6 wheel trucks with knuckle couplings. I am not sure what would work best and would appreciate any advice and suggestions. I have little knowledge in terms so it would have to be rather straight forward. Thanks.”
An unusual question from Lee:
“Where can I find fake switch machines to cover holes where tortoise switch machines have been installed underneath layout and spring wires from them are outside (not in center) of tracks?”
Ho enthusiast Don asks:
“I am looking for a system to imitate rail yard sounds. Huffing & Puffing, bells, whistles. Something with a push button at the controls to sound the imitation noise of a train for my grandchildren to hear when operating the trains. Any such product out there? Seems like a no-brainer.”
Drdaro asks: “I purchased a Noch briefcase diorama the Tirol # 87090. To my surprise there are no operating instructions. Is there anyway I can retrieve one from the manufacturer? I would appreciate any help. I am new at this Hobby.”
Mark Rauen makes this observation of a model train set he purchased:
“I cannot speak to anything other than what I have but…
I purchased a used Bachmann Diesel Express HO Train Set. In addition I purchased a new unopened Bachmann Track Pack (Steel Alloy E-Z Track with black bed.) When I run the train around the fixed circle track it runs fine, when I run it on an oval it is fine up to about 80% throttle. When I use the turnouts the cars derail almost every time no matter what the speed. These are remote activation turnouts. And here is what happens. (Gleaned from keen observation over a few hours of trying variations of numerous adjustments and work arounds.)
When the turnouts are set for the straight away the cars can be run up to full speed without derailing. When the turnout is switched to the curve the cars derail as soon as the trailing end of the engine starts the turn.
Here is my opinion of the problem; poor design and cheap construction.
Let me explain.
When my engine is traveling straight everything is fine, when the engine starts into the the 18″ radius turn the coupler moves a bit to the left or right. (I have the old style HO Universal Horn Hook couplers.) This pushes the coupler on the rolling stock coupler, which is still moving straight, to the right or left. At up to 80% throttle the rolling stock can handle this pressure and stay on track. At full speed it will derail 1 out of 5 times. When it hits the turnout it will ALWAYS derail at any speed. The reason is the locomotive coupler pushes sideways on the stock coupler too hard and the taper of the cheap plastic wheels forces the forward truck of the stock to move in the opposite direction of the turn. This causes the front wheels of the forward truck to ride up on and over the rail. The lighter the rolling stock the easier it is to derail. I tried adding weights to the front of the stock and saw a minor improvement, 1 out of 10 times it stayed on the track at up to 40% power.
This is where I place the blame squarely on the design. From my experience the rolling stock is far too light. They added a lot of weight to the engine for obvious reasons but then they made the cars as light as possible to save on cost. It would have been nothing for them to add a weight in the base of the car or even in the trucks of the stock themselves.
In my opinion this ‘toy rolling stock’ offers nothing but frustration to new people like me and my grandson. I suspect that the weight needed to keep these cars on the track would cost the manufacturer a few cents per axle? I think this is right because that is what I paid for the material and I am not a factory buying in large quantity.
I have bought my last Bachmann product, not even used.
Brian sent in this question:
“I just bought a Gaugemaster Q 4 Track controller. When I switch it on makes a buzzing sound. Is this normal?
Thanks. Brian.”
N scaler Roy asks:
“What couplers should I use that look realistic but will never be uncoupled?”
Add your comment, or see the comments of others, by using the COMMENTS link under Roy’s posting.
Ross wants to hear what others think:
“I am looking to replace the horn hook couplers on several older freight cars. I spotted some Kadee clones that will fit into the coupler mounts on the trucks. Am I wasting my time buying the knock-off clones which are cheaper, or should I stick with Kadee. I know sometimes you pay extra for a brand name. Does anyone have experience using both?”
Use the COMMENTS tag to add or view comments. Use the ASK A QUESTION tag to submit a question to he Blog Moderator for publication.
Maurice a keen member of the Online Train Club Member used the ‘ASK A QUESTION’ link to submit this question for readers:
“If I have a DCC setup, then why would I need to use insulated joiners?”
Fred model N scale and asks:
“I am interested in the car interior lighting being offered by the company “Bright-Chips”. I am currently using the Kato lighting in my cars, but have 5 new cars coming and these other lights seem to offer more consistent power delivery, thus less flickering. They also offer more light “color” tones. I am most interested in ease of installation and actual performance. Has anyone used them and can give me any advice?”
Online Train Club Member Ray is interested in HO scale and is hoping someone will explain track and wheel codes for him:
“It’s not hard for me to get confused these days, which probably explains why I am still confused with this different wheel and track codes and how they go together.
For example Code 83 track? Code 88 wheels? or Code 100 track? Code 110 wheels? Are there advantages choosing one over another, what works best etc.? Can someone explain things in simple terms for me please?”
HO guy Steve asks:
“Is there anywhere I can get a list of what decoders will work on some of my older engines?”
Online Train Club member Byran asks readers for opinions on replacing wheel sets and truck:
“Is it worth replacing plastic wheel sets (axle with two wheels attached) with the non-magnetic ones? I heard replacing wheelsets is difficult and wondered if replacing entire trucks might be a better option? I’ve also been told that metal wheels roll smoother and stay on the track better… is that true?”
Peter asks:
“Hi. Does anybody out there know where I can purchase assembly instructions for a OO Mercian Models SG20 Bishops Castle ‘Carlisle’ 0-6-0 loco. I bought this sometime ago and have mislaid the plans. Any assistance would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance”
Dan models HO and asks readers:
“I have a Rivarossi collector passenger car non lighted and it looks like a Athearn pleasure dome passenger car. I would like to add internal lighting. Please advice . I have the lights for a Walthers pleasure dome car. I do not know the next step. Please advice thanks guys.”
Steve asks:
“I have had a HO Double Crossover Switch on back-order from Walthers for about 6 months. Has anybody had this much trouble in purchasing this Double Crossover.”
Copper models HO/OO and asks readers for advice:
“Hi all, I’m looking for a bridge single track or sections to suit 3rd radius Hornby curves. So far I’ve had no luck locating a manufacturer. Some advice would be great.”