John has a question for those experienced in DCC operation and asks:

“It is possible to wire the rail such that, when selected to do so, a train approaching a station will automatically slow down and stop. Does anyone know where to buy circuit diagrams for this action, or any other ‘special’ action for DCC control can be found? NB. I am a 69 year old retired electronics technician new to this wonderful hobby, designing my first and last 10 steam loco layout.”

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Dale kindly sent in this info on model railroad lighting to help others:

Lighting – Here is a subject that, from what I’ve noticed, is never touched in model railroading. By lighting I mean overhead lighting on a layout.

I would imagine that most layouts use fluorescent lighting in the ceiling above the layout. While this is good, it usually leaves some room for improvement in the quality of the light. I’m not talking about expensive improvements, but very inexpensive improvements that can make a big difference.

Most often the fluorescent bulbs that we use are cool white or warm white bulbs to light a given area (in this case our layout). While those lamps are adequate to get the job done they cast a lighting color on the layout that may actually mask or reduce our ability to see all the colors in the layout. They simply do not render all colors of the light spectrum equally making colors look somewhat dull.

Let me give you an example you’re familiar with where lighting makes a big difference. Retailers often take advantage of improved fluorescent lamps and food stores are big users of improved lighting. They often use lighting over the meat cases that enhances the color red or full spectrum lighting over the store shelving that makes the colors on their product boxes just ‘jump off the shelf’. The results are you see the various products as bright and inviting resulting in greater sales.

Simply changing the fluorescent lamps over the layout can make a huge improvement in the colors displayed on the layout and all for very little money.

I would suggest to replace those default cool white and warm white lamps with lamps along the line of those listed below: Use lamps with a color temperature of 3500K (degrees Kelvin) or higher and a color rendering index (CRI) of 80 and higher (0 to 100 scale). The CRI is the most important issue for true color rendering.

Here are some examples:

Brand Wattage Model Name Model No. Temperature(K) CRI

Phillips 40W Warm White Natural F40/N 3700 90 (Warm White)

Phillips 40W Deluxe Cool White F40/CWX/ALTO 4200 89 (Cool White)

Phillips 40W Colortone 50 F40/C50 5000 85 (Full Spectrum)

Phillips 34W Ultralume F34/35U/RE/EW/ALTO 3500 85 (Warm White)

Phillips 34W Ultralume F34/41U/RS/EW/ALTO 4100 85 (Cool White)

Phillips 34W Ultralume F34/50U/RS/EW/ALTO 5000 85 (Full Spectrum)

The goal is to reveal all colors accurately making your layout look its very best.

Brent has a model RR problem and wants help from readers:

“I have Walthers budd lighted passenger cars that at some spots on the circuit the lights flicker. I have cleaned the track etc, but to no avail. My units are new. Does anyone know what to do?”

Joe asks readers with DCC experience:

“I am unable to program my control to move two trains on my track.”

If you think you can help either of these readers, then use the Comments link to add your suggestion.

Adam would like a knowledgeable reader to help him with his model train question:

“How would I control two motors in the same locomotive to speed up, slow down, brake, stop together. Would I use a simple programmable chip?”

A newbie to the hobby needs some kind reader to help him and asks:

“Can someone provide, or point me in the right direction to obtain a wiring diagram for ta Denver layout. If someone has or or know where and how I can get one, it would be appreciated. I am a newbie to the hobby so I need all the help I can get.”

Use the green Comments and Feedback link to add your thoughts and help out.

Don sent in this switching tip for readers:

“I had a problem with magnetic switching for HO & N scale trains. I have found that using door and window alarm switching magnets work well. They are small and easy to hide and senseitive. Give it a shot.”

If you have feedback on this posting use the Comments & Feedback link to add your comments.

Arthur has a question he is hoping someone will be kind enough to answer:

“I purchased last year a train set for my grandson aged 5. I have been busy collecting some trains over the year and I am about to start on the layout.
Hoping to either have 2 or 3 lines going plus some sidings. Could one of your knowledgeable readers advise what can of transformer to obtain. I dont think the one I have is suitable (probably only for 1 line).”

To advise Arthur on transformers please use the green Comments & Feedback link below his posting. If you haven’t already done so you will need to register first (it takes only 2 minutes) – and then you can participate in future model train discussions.

Malcolm contributes these thoughts on DCC:

Power loss can be a problem on large layouts with a large amount of track to feed when using DC control.

On a digital layout booster units solve this problem. A booster unit can create a power district with its own power supply. The booster unit takes the digital signal data and adds the new power supply across the layout.

Accessories such as turnout motors can be powered from a booster unit making their operation independent to the track.

…………….

Robert adds:

If you have knowledge of model trains and would like to help others get started in the hobby, then please add your best tips or suggestions at http://www.model-railroad-resources.com/train-tips.html

Please don’t be secretive and keep your ideas to yourself. You can really help and encourage others by sharing.

Larry wants to hear from you if you know anything about Marx switches and asks:

“I have 027 marx 666 & 999 engines that go through marx switches fine but my 333 engine
derails about every 3rd time through. What if anything can I do – does anyone out there know?”

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Dwayne has two questions for readers and asks:

“1- Does anyone know of an authorized dealer in the NY metro area that will modify the O-27 switch track to operate under TMCC?

2-Is the modification listed on Lionel’s site for the O-27 switch track to operate w/ TMCC’s Switch Controller really necessary? Doesn’t it work ok without the modification? Or, just set up with fixed voltage and keep a panel of toggle switches to control the switches.”

Use the green comments and feedback link to add your thoughts to Dwayne’s posting.

Herb also has a question about street lighting and asks readers:

“I need to reduce my voltage from 16 volt to 12 volt for street lights so what resister do I need please? Thank You”

Sil has a question for anyone who has added street or building lights to their layout. To help Sil you first need to register (it takes 2 minutes and you only need to do it once) and then you can take part in future discussions on this Model Train Blog.

“Hello Fellow Model Railroaders. My question is: What kind of lights to use to light up buildings and streets. Im afraid of the commercial ones that look like they would burn out right away. What do you guys use?”

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Richard wants to hear from anyone in the hobby who knows about diodes and asks:

“I thought that I may have seen a way by using diodes in a bridge? I thought that a reversing loop would automatically change the polarity so there was no need to go to the 2 switch wiring. I’m a total newbie so please disregard my total ignorance on what is very basic knowledge. Thanks to anyone who can help on your blog.”

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Tony has a question for any helpful reader who is prepared to help him:

“How many signals can I run using a fleischmann signal light switch? What about any other switch because I need to have a resistance and rectifier attached with 2 signals so the train can slowdown. Can I have more signals attached as well. Thanks Tony”

Pete needs help from some friendly mopdel railroader who is prepared to guide him. Pete asks:

“Can I buy replacement drive gears to axle/s on engines/locos. Who can tell me if I can get brass to replace plastic/nylon ones? Also, what is the best way to install gears and how are the gears numbered or named? I need help please.”

Eric has a question for readers to get their teeth into:

“In building a new HO train layout I need advice regarding the best wiring arrangement for the connection of a loop line from the main line. I am using Hornby type points as well as another type. Both of these have been satisfactory on a previous layout. Can someone help?”

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Barry is going to construct an HO mountain layout but needs some help from readers on selecting switches and asks:

I think I am going to go with a ‘mountain railroad layout’ like the one in part 6 of the Model Train Help Ebook. Can someone tell me is a snap switch left & right the same as a remote switch left or right? I will need crossover switches (which are very expensive), but I don’t know what to buy. Can anyone who has built a layout advise me please on what switches I will need?

Readers can help Barry by adding feedback and thoughts to his posting by using the green Comments & Feedback link below.

Bill has a question relating to transformer diagrams and asks others:

“I was given a type V Lionel transformer that had been taken apart. There no a diagram made when taken apart. Does anyone know where I can get a diagram of this transformer please?”

To help Bill you can add your Comments & Feedback below.