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Layout Photos Sent in by Richard

model train layoutsmodel railway photoHere are two more photos of Richard’s layout. A third one was posted earlier.

The first photo shows Richville; a Village at the foot of the mountain; Town Center with Shops and a Filling Station; Holiday Homes on the lake shore; and Richville Station.

The second photo; a crossing via Bridges over a Canon.

The layout also features the “New River Mining Company” pictured in the earlier posting.

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Does Track Code Cause Derailments?

Herb asks readers:

“I’ve been having derailment issues and a railroad friend of mine claims locos and cars are less likely to derail on Code 100 track, compared to the code 83 track I am using. Is that true? I don’t want to rip up my track if I don’t have to.”

Robert comments: Readers might also like to comment on any differences they’ve personally observed with code 83 vs code 100 in regards to: track thickness, detailing, short circuits, ease of installation.

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How To Prevent Model Train Derailments

This short video has some useful ideas:

More tips for preventing loco and train derailments

 

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POLL RESULTS: Do you have relatives who are (or were) model railroaders?

Not so many people as usual participated in last weeks poll which asked: Do you have relatives (parents, brothers/sisters, uncles/aunts, cousins/nieces/nephews, sons/daughters) who are or were model railroaders? The 240 participants voted as follows:

>>  NO (65%)
>>  YES (30%)
>>  I don’t have a layout yet (5%)

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How Do You Remove Ballast and Flex Track?

Roy asks readers:

“Is there a way to remove ballast and flex track? I want to replace flex track with Kato track.”

Unfortunately Roy doesn’t give any details of how his track and ballast are applied on his N scale layout. Hopefully he will add a comment to this post giving more detail.

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Richville & New River Railroad

model railwaysRichard sent in this photo of his Richville & New River railroad to share. The mining company can be seen on the right.

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Ordering Train Stuff Online From Where?

Obviously readers will have preferred brands and retailers when it comes to buying model trains, parts and accessories.

Gio is into O scale and asks:

“Do members know of hobby shops or online retailers that are reliable as far as stocking and prompt delivery no hassles competitive shipping rates?”

Perhaps Gio might like to add a comment to this post and tell people where he lives, or at least which country.

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2 Short Model Railroad Questions

Here are 2 brief questions from readers.

John asks: “How do I wire multiple OO point motors up thanks.”

Julie asks: “Does anyone have experience using EL wire to represent long runs of florescent lights? Any advice on doing it?”

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How Easy Is It To Convert Old Locos To DCC?

Phil asks readers:

“I have been out of the hobby for about 18 yrs now. I am planning my next layout and am confused on everything I read on DCC, except that DCC seems to be the way to go. With all of my older HO locos is it better to convert them to DCC, or start all over again from scratch and build up another roster of locos with DCC already included? Thanks for the time to respond.”

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Send In a Photo of a Building You Made – and get it PUBLISHED!!!

warehouse industrial scale modelsThank you for all the excellent feedback on the model buildings featured on this blog. It is pleasing to hear such good results!

Several readers suggested publishing a photo of a building they constructed, to show other how good it looks on their layout, so there is now the opportunity for readers to do that. Details at http://www.modelbuildings.org/photos.html

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How To Wire A Double Slip

Jan asks readers:

“How do I wire a Peco SL-E 190 double slip? I have wired each point motor shifting the polarity of the crossing point most close to it. The slip works beautifully as a normal diamond crossing. But, if I activate the second point motor in the travelling direction in order to go to a siding a short circuit occurs when the locomotive reaches the second crossing point due to incorrect polarity. Of course the same problem happens when entering from the opposite direction.”

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TRAIN POLL RESULTS: What is your favorite type of freight car?

Our last poll asked: What is your favorite type of freight car?

443 model railroaders took part and the results were as follows:

>> Box (34%)
>> Tank (12%)
>> Hopper (9%)
>> Flat (9%)
>> Refrigerated (9%)
>> Covered Hopper (7%)
>> Gondola (6%)
>> Special Purpose Car (6%)
>> Doublestack/Well (6%)
>> Stock (2%)

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DCC with Analog Sound?

Sivert asks readers:

“I have many G -scale locomotives with sound. Next year I plan to make everything in DCC. Will the old sound system work? Are there videos to see how to open the locos so I can install DCC? They are all Bachmann.”

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Pantographs Not Working

Jack from Canada asks readers:

“Where can I buy working N scale pantographs? I have a GG-1 Kato locomotive but the pantographs keep falling down, no mechanism (springs?) to keep them up. They do not have to supply the current to the motor, that stays on the tracks but it looks dumb to have an electric locomotive without a working pantograph.The Japanese pantographs have no springs in them either and are no help. Please advise.

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Power Requirements For 25 Foot Layout

Nicholas asks readers:

“I am in the planning process of a single HO track that will be a rectangular lay out. The two long straight legs will be 25 feet in length each, and the two short legs will be approx. 15 feet each. Only one assembled train will be operating at a time. Concerns; 1. Will I need two power units or one, 2. What type (power rating, model) will be required to power that much track, 3. Will this require multiple power points through out the line. Thank you for your attention.”

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How to Increase Engine Pulling Power

Craig asks readers:

“Is there any way to get more pull out of my HO steam engine?”

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Which Model Train Couplers Are The Most Reliable and Realistic?

Roger asks readers for their opinions:

“Which couplers have proven to be the most reliable and realistic and what is the best method for coupling and uncoupling rolling stock?”

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How To Make Your Layout Appear Bigger Than It Is

Experienced model railroaders use a variety of techniques to maximize space usage and to create the illusion their railroad stretch far into the distance.

One of the best ways is to give the illusion of the background scene extending further is to start with either a photographic or realistically painted backdrop. Commercially made photo backdrops are available, but many prefer to paint their own sky and background scene.

Whether painting the backdrop or using photographic printed landscape images, the trick is to create the illusion of depth and realism. The next thing is to build up the scene in front of the backdrop, to add further to the 3D effect. This can be done using trees, shrubs, grasses, people, fences, vehicles, roads, and structures.

The model buildings in this video can be seen here.

Instead of wasting valuable track or yard space with structures that are 6” or 8” deep, many hobbyists construct their background buildings just 1” or 2” deep. This clever technique can save an enormous of space, whilst still proving the illusion that the buildings are full-size, and that they extend well into the background.

These thin low relief buildings usually consist of a frontage, with part of a roof, and usually one or two side walls visible or partly visible. The buildings can be placed in front of the sky or tree lined painted or photographic backdrop.

More scenery, props, greenery, track etc can be positioned near the buildings to create the impression the layout extends considerably further than in reality it does.

It’s an expensive waste to cut up pricey plastic kits to create this type of background illusion. Instead, it is much cheaper to download and build these designs from corflute, ply, card, or foam board. They can be made exceptionally strong!

And, because the downloaded prints are like photos, no paints or airbrushing is required.

The railroad models on the modelbuildings.org website are of a high quality finish (photo-realistic) and already have fine detailing such as curtains hanging in windows, flaking paintwork, rusty pipes, mold on brickwork, cracks in concrete. Some buildings even feature items on display in shop windows.

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