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Installing a DCC Decoder Lifelike Berkshire N Gauge Steam Engine

Nicholas wants advice from knowledgeable readers and asks:

“Does someone have some suggestions on what decoder and how to install it on a Lifelike Berkshire N gauge Steam engine?”

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O-27 Slow Train On Track

Cos has a similar problem to many others (see earlier postings) and asks readers:

“I have an O-27 4’x8′ layout. At the far end my train slows and comes to a stop. What is the problem and how do I fix it?

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Trucks for Trains

Ray would like to hear some personal opinions on buying trucks and asks:

“When my dad, a model RR’er, passed away, I inherited his layout. He has a lot of cars, and some of them consistently go off the track. Are there some trucks which are “el cheapos”? If so, which ones should I get so my trains will stay on the track?”

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Lionel and Marx o Gauge Three Rail Tube Track

George asks readers:

“I have two sets of o gauge – Lionel and Marx. Can I use the same set of three rail tube track for both if I run them separately?”

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DPDT Switch Between 2 Main Lines

Tom asks readers:

“Does someone have a wiring diagram for an HO North East Line layout for DCC? And suggestions on gauge of wires to use (from feeders to main lines running to DCC power pack). And, should I use a DPDT switch between the 2 main lines and the power pack? I will be using DCC only. My last question is, should I do soldering or use suitcase connectors? Thanks for any help on this.”

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HO Track Spacing and N Scale Houses

Two readers are hoping someone can guide them.

Bill asks:

“When running two HO tracks side by side how much space should I leave between them?”

Pat asks:

“Where can I get an n scale house built from a picture I have? I have a small budget. Thank you in advance.”

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Bachmann DD40AX and MRC Railpower 1370

Rick wants to hear from those with experience of Bachmann DD40AX and asks:

"I've been around the hobby all my life and right now am deeply confused. My wife bought me a DD40AX for Christmas. I'll tell you right out, Bachmann has never impressed me. The unit ran great for less then ten hours, then it stopped. All the lights work from the track but no movement. I can put power to the chassis and it runs. Now Bachmann says to use their power supplies or NMRA approved packs.

I'm in a little 'hic' town with no hobby shops. I would believe MRC Railpower 1370 would be an approved pack. Now the unit is set up for DC and DCC and I understand many of your readers are masters of DCC and may have an answer?


To advise Rick, use the green COMMENTS link below.



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8amp Power Supply for Digitrax DCC System

Ken has a question for those experienced in DCC setup and operation and asks:

“I purchased a digitrax DCC system with has an 8amp rating. I hope I know what I am getting into. My question is – To get the max performance out of the system I assume I have to purchase an 8amp power supply? Is that correct?”

How about hearing from some of those in the hobby that regularly read this blog yet don’t contribute. This is a voluntary service that is free to use, so help us keep it going for the benefit of everyone. Don’t just sit there – share your knowledge and experience with others in the hobby who would value your help.

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Wheelchair Doesn’t Stop Train Enthusiast From Creating A layout and Having Fun


Carol should be an inspiration to us all and has sent in this interesting story about her involvement with model railroading:


Thank you for all the info you send it has been a great help to me and your e-book has been a godsend, as I am very new to all this modeling. I have to do all my work from my wheelchair and sometimes it has been a struggle, but I am thoroughly enjoying myself. I have sent you these few photo’s of how I am progressing with my N gauge lay out which is 4ft x 2ft not so big but more than enough for me to cope with. it is by no means finished, but thought you might like to see how I am getting on.


I have always had an interest in trains from childhood (much better than dolls) we had a marvellous set up which my dad was always in charge of. Growing up getting married etc … put things on hold but I always wanted a train layout that didn’t take up too much space.

Just last year our neighbour introduced me to someone who made me the layout base. It had to be small as I work from a wheelchair and my reach is very limited so the N gauge is perfect for me.


I started making my layout by painting the backdrop on a roll of wallpaper so there are no joins and it wraps around the layout table. I then added the tunnel and the hill. Next came the buildings, then the road. I did have a basic plan when I started, but more of it evolved as I went along.


The photos you see are near the completion stage but I am at the moment adding street lights, telegraph poles etc . As this layout was started for me I am now also in the process of making another layout which is smaller but this time everything will be done by me, more on that later.

NB. The reason I am in a wheelchair is because I have a very rare illness called “Mitochondrial Myopathy” which is a muscle wasting disease with no known cure. I am exercise intolerant and even picking up a train engine can tire me out but I refuse to give in and do nothing so this hobby is keeping me focused and giving me something else to think about.

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Hornby R2581 BR 4-6-0 King Arthur Class N15 on HO Layout

John has an HO layout and sent in this question for readers:

“I have recently purchased a steam locomotive – a Hornby R2581 BR 4-6-0 king arthur class N15 ‘sir gwain’. This loco was purchased from a reputable dealer, but due to time restraints I was unable to see it test run. The unit is brand new and unused. Upon running the loco (without rolling stock) on an existing track, the loco front bogie continually derails when pasing over ‘points’. I have several diesel engine models and have not had the problem before. Is the trouble located with my track, or with the locomotive? Any constructive comments would be deeply appreciated.”

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Race Track On HO Train Layout

Bob wants to hear from anyone with experience of incorporating a race track into an HO model RR layout:

“I want to try to make a NasCar race track. It doesn’t need to be perfect details. I am just starting to build a new train table and one part is about 3ft by 4ft. I would like to build this race track on it and have the train go around the out side. Maybe I could include a place to drop off and pick up people? I know it is going to be a big job to do. I had idea of finding car track at goodwill stores or similar. That would give me the race track for the cars but the stands will be harder to do. If anyone has any ideas I would like to hear them.”

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DCC Motors For Slow Moving Locos

John doesn’t give a lot of detail about his HO model railroad project, but hopefully readers will be prepared to offer a “best guess” answer. John asks:

” On DCC what is the best type or brand of motors for slow movement of Diesel locos?”

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Kato HO Track Stabilization On Plywood



Ray has sent in these photos and a question or two to test reader’s knowledge:

I have Kato HO track on my train layout which is on plywood with a 30% directly on the plywood while 70% is on Styrofoam, plaster covered risers. I would like to secure at least key places from movement. I would rather not use track nails. Can someone advise please.

Should I drill a small hole through the reinforced plastic and placing small screws into the plywood on some key curves in order to keep the firmness?


If I needed to further secure the track on the inclines should I use small amounts of hot glue or does anyone have any other suggestions?

I would like to avoid having the permanency of nails (easier to remove screws) and also avoid continuous glue around the entire track bed – just secure enough for good traction and prevent derailments from up / down movement. Thus far I have placed a little hot glue in a few spots to prevent the shifting and I have almost completed my troubleshooting so my train does not derail or uncouple going around curves and up and down the grades.

To help Ray please participate in the discussion using the green Comments link below.

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Mechanical-Magnetic Release Couplers

Mac wants to hear some opions on coupler options:

I need help to decide which couplers to use where - mechanical-magnetic release, electromagnetic as an option or the new dcc controlled coupler. I need help to decide which to use where. All the help would be greatly appreciated.

I am setting up a new HO gauge layout. I have been out of touch for a while. Need some discussion on use of electro-magnets in roadbed to selectively uncouple cars, also info on the new dcc controlled couplers. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

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Uncouple Cars and Using Electromagnets

Fred wants a solution to uncoupling cars and ask for reader's opinions:

After all these years of RR modeling, why hasn't someone come up with an easy way to uncouple cars?

I am heavily into HO but, running a consist around in circles gets boring real soon. I have a complicated switch yard and I would like a simple electronic way to uncouple cars and do some switching of cars to make up different consists.

I can't reach over and use the stick in all areas and that isn't fun or proper anyhow.

I have tried magnets placed in special spots, I have tried electromagnets also.

I have had some good results but, it is not reliable at all. There is too much running back and forth trying to uncouple.

After all these years, I just can't justify all these master engineers out there not being able to have a fix with this problem of uncoupling.

I have watched a film of European RR uncoupling and when the consist stops, I hear a loud click and then the consist moves forward and has uncoupled.

Why not over here?

So you see this engineer and others I am sure, have the same problem and wish someone out there could give us an answer.

I have a simulated train game. Called Trainz Railroad Simulator or TS2006.

In this game you can make up consist via coupling and uncoupling and sure adds to the fun of RRing.

I need help.

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Model Train Postings Rejected

Following requests from several regular contributors we are taking a tougher line on incoherent or incomplete postings. Five postings have already been rejected and sent back for rewrites today. The problem is, that poorly worded or complete questions, are difficult to accurately answer and many of our regular contributors just don’t bother attempting to answer in case they get it wrong. One sentence questions are rarely published. Questions in ALL CAPS or with text jargon are never published.

Please understand, that the kind folk who answer questions are doing this purely on a voluntary basis and they often put a lot of effort into trying to help the person asking the question. If they are prepared to put in the effort, then it is only fair that the questioner puts in some effort to construct a well thought out question.

If your question has not been published, then you are welcome to reword it and submit it again for consideration by the Blog Moderator.

Submit your well-worded, well thought out questions at http://www.model-railroad-resources.com/submit-questions.html This is a FREE service.

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Decal Removal with Floqul Decal Remover

Robin wants some pointers on removing decals and asks everyone:

“I want to change a tender from New York Central to Southern. I have tried Floqul Decal remover without success. The tender is a new Lionel. Have any of your readers got any experience with decal removal?”

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Trains and Train Supplies For Sale Atlas, Bachman, Athearn, Walters and Others

Martin is new to model railroading and would like to hear any opinions others have about brand preferences and brand mixing and asks:

“I am new to ho model railroading. I have seen many brands of trains and supplies for sale. These include Atlas, Bachman, Athearn, Walters, and others. Are some of these brands much better than others? Does the locomotive, DCC control unit, and power pack have to be the same brand?”

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