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4 Responses to Two Inch Foam On Layout?
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Bruce,
Some modelers like using foam board as a substructure because it is very light, easy to cut or punch a hole through (for wiring) and doesn’t require much support. I have a very simple perimeter framework on my layout that is just uses 1″ x 3″ pine boards with a few cross pieces to prevent the possibility of sagging (which is remote). Considering the weight of your ‘normal’ layout, the foam is certainly sturdy enough for almost any layout providing you aren’t going to stand on it.
In some ways, it is easier to do sub-level scenic features like rivers, gorges and highway underpasses.
Ultimately, a sheet of plywood gets you to the same place but its more expensive, heavier and difficult to handle.
Hope this helps,
Geof
I did the original portion of my layout with 2″ foam supported by a framework of iX2s on 24″ centers with 1X4 perimeters. I glued down Woodland scenics foam roadbed and the track to that. It is fast and versitile, but the track moves around a bit. You cannot nail to it. also, it is very difficult to mount under-table swith macines to it. on the second part of my layout I added a 3/8 plywood base under the 2″ foam. That solved the under-table problems but the track is still not secure enough to maintail necessary power gaps in the rails and clearances at a turntable. On my last project (a staging yard) I used only plywood and cork roadbed. It holds nails and is much easier to mount under-table accessories. (Although not as quiet) I guess there is room for all three approaches. Foam for long runs with large radius s and few turnouts, Plywood under foam for easier under-table additions and good old plywood and cork for tighter radius and heavy switching.
Pete and Geof,
I am curious about Pete’s problem with the track moving around. Do you think cork roadbed would glue down better?
Geof, you indicate no similar problem with the movement of the track. What did you do to prevent it, if not?
Thanks for some good information!
Bruce,
I just happened to see that you had posted a response so my apologies for taking so long to answer.
Anyway, I secure both my roadbed (which is foam) and the track to it with water based white glues such as Elmer’s although any of the so called ‘tacky’ glues you get in crafts shops work fine as well. I have never had any problems with the track shifting but I am using N scale so that MIGHT have something to do with it (though I doubt it).
I use craft or foam pins to hold down the roadbed while the white glue dries overnight and then do the same with my track once the roadbed glue has set. Craft or foam pins are about two inches long and have a TEE shaped head so you can easily press them into foam and remove them just as easily. A pack of 50 costs about 2 or 3 bucks (US) at any craft store or Walmart.
The down side of glue is that if you have to remove or move a section of track, you’ll probably destroy the roadbed and maybe the track too. I found that soaking the old track with glue on it will soften the glue so you can salvage the piece. You can also try the dishwasher but don’t let the wife know and I wouldn’t suggest using the dishwasher approach with switches (points to our British friends).
Hope this helps,
Geof