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Model Train Tips
Here are a three tips sent in by members of my online Model Train Club:
Bernard says:
“My tip is about planning a layout. We spend hundreds (probably thousands) of hours at our layouts so we need to be comfortable. I mean the right height off the floor, easy to reach access to all sections of the layout. I have a high bar stool handy to sit on and I’ve added foam padding to make it more comfortable. Also my power pack is close to the electrical wall socket so I don’t need to run miles of cords (or try and hide them).”
Daniel says:
“I think it’s best to start with a 4 × 8 foot bench. You can always add another 4 × 8 foot bench at the end to form an L shape, or add another at the other end to form a U shape. I use screws and glue (not nails), as nails tend to work loose with vibrations from trains. Brace the legs for extra strength (your layout will get heavy with mountains, buildings etc) and stability.”
Robert adds:
Sometimes it is better to build a layout in modules, or work on just half of the layout to start with. A half-sized layout is not only quicker to build, it will provide you with a good guide to the costs and time involved.
More tips are available inside the members area of the Online Model Train Club.
Bruce says:
“Because I have a bad back I made my bench 42 inches off the floor… no bending. The only problem is I find it difficult to reach the rear of my layout as I can’t stretch my hand as far at that height. My advice is around 3 foot off the floor for most people. Put a piece of plywood at that height and test out reach-ability (if there’s such a word) before screwing your bench together. My trains look good higher up, but little kids can’t see (or touch!).”
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Hi all. My name is Gary. I live in the north west of New South Wales, Australia. I have a shed where I do quite a few projects. Mostly woodworking. So I have to store mt tools somewhere. I Built a bench that is 1200mm (4ft) high and 600mm (2 foot)Wide. It is 5 meters long,(15ft) plus the 1200mm (4 ft) turnaround at each end. As it is a bit high, to reach the back of the turnarounds, I have a removable cut-out center, round so I can put it back in any position to change the visible scenery. or I stand on a 250mm (10inch) wooden step that I can scoot around the wooden floor. the 1200mm (4ft) height of the bench is kind on my back too.
Let’s face it, no one wants to have to dismantle their layout after all of the hard work put into it. I once read a statistic that the average family moves every seven years. If that is true, then making your layout modular will allow you to move it easier. My first HO layout was a 4×8, and when I moved away from my parents, I sold the layout. Unfortunately, I had to cut it in two to remove it from my parents basement. The layout I have now, and have had for the last 20 years, is built on modules. Some sections are 20″ deep X 6′ long, others 22″ deep X 5′ or 4′, whatever it takes to fit them together. They have removable legs, and the top level is chest-high (about 4.5′) for better viewing. The lower level is 18″ lower. All sections are flat, the surface material is made of Homosote (I hope I spelled it right). That is a soft, somewhat flexible 1/2″ thick (comes in 4X8 sheets), light weight material. I only have to press track nails to attach track, no hammering needed. At this time, the lower level only serves as a storage shelf, waiting for a future helix. It is best to have a layer of plywood under the Homosote, for strength, to prevent warping. My friend calls my layout “editable” because I don’t glue down the ballast, I only spread it out onto the tracks, I don’t even use cork roadbed, I feel that it is too thick. As long as I don’t move my layout, the ballast stays put. I can pull up sections of track, and re-lay it however I want too, and re-use the ballast. Of course, I have to re-wire the sections, and everything is block wired, with block detection circuits, I use a rechargeable soldering iron for that. The wiring runs under the modules, some places have connectors, others don’t. I use Walther’s scenic backdrops on the walls behind the modules. I hope to add mountains etc, at a later date, but for now, I can operate my trains on this 36′ long X 6′ wide layout, housed inside my attic, in a room I built for it. Though the isles are only 22″ wide, No duck-under needed, I enter the room from the center, via a drop-down ladder, and trap door.