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Converting Horn Hook Couplers To Knuckle Couplers
Jeremy (an eight month member of the online model train club) sent in this piece of advice:
Many folk in the hobby don’t particularly like horn-hook couplers and often can’t wait to replace them with knuckle couplers. The view of many is that knuckle couplers are more realistic and they work really well with magnetic uncouplers.
Converting to knuckle couplers takes time and some effort and patience. If you are going to do this it is best to convert your rolling stock one at a time. Some mix them in consists until they are all eventually converted.
Regardless of what train couplers you use, they need to be mounted at the right height for them to work correctly.
If a coupler is sitting too high, then you can lower the coupler by inserting a shim between the bottom (of the car floor) and the coupler pocket. If, on the other hand, the coupler is too low, then you can add a washer (or two) between the truck and the car base.
You might have to replace the truck assembly (or the wheels), if the coupler is mounted on the truck, particularly so when a coupler is too low. My last tip is to buy a coupler height gauge – very handy!
5 Responses to Converting Horn Hook Couplers To Knuckle Couplers
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There is a lot of horse-sense to leaving the horn hooks on long passenger trains that run on modular club layouts. My experience has been that they stay coupled crossing uneven modular joints much better that knuckle couplers. The up and down movement sometimes leaves a part of your train behind. When you have a 20+ foot long train that can be a little disturbing….. I love the closeness of the couple on knuckle couplers though.
I model in N scale and the Rapido style couplers common in that scale are particularly hideous! Most of my rolling stock now cosists of stuff that I get on ebay as cheap as I can. I convert them using Atlas wheelsets with Accumate couplers. While I have the car in the shop, I go ahead and ad the appropriate weight to them as well.
I run both ways Horn and couple Draw back is when you want to uncouple ,you have to pay attention what cars are what
Yes your right, it takes a lot of effort to change over. But well worth it. You could not pay me to use the XF2 AKA Hook and Horn. The debate will always continue on this issue. But there are advantages to the Knuckle. Big Long trains, backing up is a big one. As for our group no XF2’s are even allowed. To many bad issues. Also something I learned a long time ago from my Mentor was every time you by a new car, buy two packs of KD’s. This way you gain a supply to work with. Find a good Mentor that will work and help you. But once you start doing the change and see the good points, you will never regret it. In my personnel opinion, the XF2 should be totally done away with. Operations for me are the up-most. Also I have this to say about Knuckles types. Stay with KD metal. I am not a fan of the plastic ones. I have stretched out just about every one I have tried, caused I pull long heavy trains.
But in the end it is your choice. As said in Indiana Jones ” Choose Wisely” If you ever have questions, I will be happy to help.
Bob
I actually found that some types of knuckle couplers will fit fine on the old time, truck mounted coupler assemblies. I can’t remember the number, but all of the old time cars run fine that way.