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Train Carriage Lighting Using LED lights
Stuart has a question for reader:
“I recently installed carriage lighting using led strips which work perfect until train moves when they flicked which spoils the effect. I use a DCC system, rails are clean and new wheels and pickup have been used. Any idea from your readers on how to overcome this problem, thanks in advance.”
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7 Responses to Train Carriage Lighting Using LED lights
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It sounds like you know enough electronics to wire things in small places. It is relatively easy to add to your light’s circuit a capacitor that will retain enough charge to smooth out those flickers. The trick is match how much capacitance and resistance to get it to last the right amount of time. I don’t have DCC so I caution you to make sure you don’t do anything to mess up how it works. Better men than me have posted how to compute that and wire it, so maybe another reader can supply details.
Thanks Mike for your comments, i,ll certainly give it a try.
Regards, Stuart
Hi Stuart, there is a company in Australia thanks makes a great unit which should solve your problem. It’s called ‘Flicker Free’ by DCCconcepts.com.au
Hope this helps Regards John
Here is a snippet from their website…
DCCconcepts exclusive….
Flickerfree lighting
Already the best and most complete answer to lighting in rolling stock for DCC, DC or AC users in N, TT, HO, OO or O scale… from late November 2009 a great product has become even better!
We are pleased to announce…..
Flickerfree2
Fickerfree2 not only gives stable constant lighting for all rail or road vehicles in all scales, no matter how they are powered from the track – it now also has directional control for analog DC modellers and on/off switching via a decoder for DCC users
DCCconcepts “Flickerfree2” lighting is the answer to reliable and realistic constant lighting which is perfectly stable and without any form of flicker no matter what scale you work in or whether you power the coach, vehicle, loco or rolling stock with AC, DC or DCC power.
If you already know about Flickerfree2, then you can go directly to our pricing and ordering information by clicking here.
If you would like to know more before you buy, please read the FAQ below to learn more about Flickerfree2 and how it works… you will find the pricing and purchase information at the end of the FAQ information.
Flickerfree2 FAQ
What power system is needed?
Flickerfree2 is comfortable with any form of power supply – AC, DC or DCC, and will comfortably cope with from 9 to 20+ volts.
How big is the device itself?
Like the original Flickerfree, Flickerfree2 has a tiny footprint. We DID have to add 2.5mm to its length to add the new functionality, however it is still only 9mm x 18mm (0.35” x 0.7”) and is only 15mm (0.59”) at its highest point (the centre of the PCB).
That makes it small enough to install inside almost any moving rail or road vehicle… And very suitable for all scales from N to O!
We have also made it easier to install at the same time. Now all of the larger parts are on top of the PCB, so the underside is flat and that makes it much easier to install with a single piece of double sided tape.
How complex is it to install Flickerfree?
Flickerfree2 really is very easy to install and connect using the parts and accessories supplied. Because its so simple and easy to install, we really do guarantee that any modeler with average skills can make a professional job of lighting up their rolling stock with ease.
(Image below shows 2 Flickerfree2 Installed in an observation coach with independent on-off control via decoder)
(Image below shows a DC/Analog steam loco using Flickerfree2 for directional constant lighting…. A real boon for those analog users who want better lighting in their trains!
If you would like a LOT more detail on installing flickerfree we can help!
For a step by step guide to installation and use we have added a very comprehensive six page fully detailed manual for Flickerfree2 to our website.
What else do I need to complete the installation?
Not much, just basic tools and a soldering Iron! Within the pack you will find Flickerfree2 itself (conveniently pre-fitted with both input and output leads), beautifully made double sided through-hole plated PCBs only 5mm wide with many pairs of LED holes at 5mm centres and a generous supply of LEDs and (from March 2009) our easy to use “zero friction” pickup springs.
We even supply lots perfectly sized 5mm square pieces of double sided foam to mount the PCB strips with!
How is Flickerfree2 Powered?
The same way as any item running on your rails or track. Once installed, Flickerfree2 simply picks up power from the rails the installed vehicle is running on.
Once it is charged (usually less than 60 seconds) it demonstrates an amazing ability to store power – so much so that once its tiny but very powerful 200,000 microfarad Super Capacitors are charged… even with a coach containing a full load of LEDs will say lit for up to an hour after power is removed from the layout (in the case conventional DC or AC control) or in the case of DCC, after the track is isolated or the coach is removed from the track.
Does it draw much power?
No, very little in fact:
It is carefully current limited so will not add any significant load to the control system… this is so successfully done that a whole train of ten coaches fitted with Flickerfree2 will normally draw far less than a single locomotive!
Will adding Flickerfree2 lighting add drag to my coaches etc?
No, almost none in fact, providing you use our specially made phosphor bronze pickup springs. Even if you prefer another method, Flickerfree2 needs only one set of pickups, so compared to most lit coaches, the drag added by power pickup can in fact be reduced by 50%!
OK, so what is in a pack of Flickerfree2?
Flickerfree2 is available in either a 3 pack or 6 pack.
Each pack is quite comprehensive… for example, the 6 pack contains:
6 Flickerfree2 units: Each has 150mm input and output wires already fixed to the Flickerfree2 PCB for you. Input leads are not polarity sensitive so both are black. The output wires are red (+) and black (-) to make it easy to get the polarity correct for the LEDs.
10 PCBs for mounting LEDS: Each is 150mm long and has preset pairs of holes every 5mm to let you place the LEDs exactly where they should be to match the interior lighting of the prototype you are modelling OR to ensure even lighting through the coach. The last holes are only 2.5mm from the end so it is easy to join two PCBs and keep the spacing exact. A place is also provided for a single ballast resistor, all that will e needed for each coach.
(Please note: PCBs are also available separately in packs of ten to allow you to very easily retrofit other stock CLICK HERE for details)
36 White LEDs: We offer you FOUR options here! There are two colour options and two size options.
If you model the Steam era or early Diesel period stock, then you will want our exclusive “Prototype white” LEDS… If you model Modern era, or your prototype used Florescent lights, then you will want our “Pure white” (Sunny white) LEDS.
We offer a shape option too: For N scale or accurate modelling of lights in S, HO or 4mm scale you will want our 1.8mm Microdot sized LED… However if you are modelling O or perhaps want a “brighter” look in an HO/OO scale coach, you may prefer to buy Flickerfree with 3mm LED.
4 Red LEDs: Flickerfree2 can also be used for end of train lamps, so we also include some red LEDs—these are almost the perfect size for an external lamp for steam era modelers and can easily be applied internally for more modern stock with built-in lamps. Of course if a perfect result is needed, then our dead scale loco lamps will give your train the perfect finish!
(Please note: We also have a wide range of LEDS and apart from the options above, we WILL also assemble packs with other types if you request them.
10x 1,000 ohm resistors: These are generally the best value for use with Flickerfree2 , however you may feel you want to vary this value – do feel free to experiment! (changing the resistor value will not harm the LEDS or Flickerfree2 devices, but MAY vary the effectiveness or illumination period)
12 pickup springs: Each pack contains a dozen of our exclusive pickup springs…. As each coach requires only two axles to be pickup fitted, this is enough for SIX coaches!
The standard pack will contain springs with a 2.2mm internal diameter for use with S, HO or OO (English 4mm scale) coaches and other stock.
You may specifically request that we change size of these for you if you are an N scale modeller, as we have specially created some ideally sized 1.7mm ID springs for you to use on N scale axles.
(Please note: Pickup springs are also available separately to allow you to very easily retrofit other stock, or even better… to easily add more pickups to your locomotive tenders or unpowered wheels etc. CLICK HERE for details)
Basic fitting instructions:
Its really is simple to install flickerfree, however we have also included an easy to follow guide on CD-ROM with each pack. It is also on our website here
(We do have more detail for those who are interested – So for a more detailed look at how we like to proceed when we install Flickerfree2 in our own work, plus a tip or two, Please CLICK HERE.)
Buying the DCCconcepts Flickerfree2:
You have several decisions to make here: They are indicated as letters within the part number as follows. (Part numbers have not changed with the transition from Flickerfree to Flickerfree2)
We have also now introduced a single pack designed for use with our scale working loco and guards van lamps… this includes a single Flickerfree2 plus several of our easy to install pickup springs to make it easy to add lamps to a a DCC guards van or brake coach or for Analog DC users, to gain both constant and directional lighting in a loco coach or brake van etc.
(If you are at all unsure please simply email us to pre-confirm your choice).
(1) Pack size (1 or 3 or 6) – ie:
DCF-FF1xx or DCF-FF3xx or DCF-FF6xx
(2) The scale of the model it will be installed in AND the light level.
This will define whether we pack it with 1.8mm Microdot or 3mm T-1 LEDS. If you want specially sized LED such at 5mm, please order appropriately AND specify in your order to be sure.
DCF-FFxNx for N scale models (will use 1.8mm microdot LED)
DCF-FFxAx for TT, HO, 4mm or S scale with “Realistic” light level (1.8mm)
DCF-FFxBx for TT, HO, 4mm or S scale with “Bright” light level (3mm)
DCF-FFxLx for O or larger (3mm)
DCF-FFxSS for special order LEDs (Please define when ordering.
(3) LED tint wanted – Incandescent/gas lamp or modern halogen/flouro – ie:
DCF-FFxxP for Incandescent tint ”Prototype white” LEDs
DCF-FFxxW for pure white tint (No blue/no incandescent tint) LEDs
DCCconcepts Flickerfree2 – “1-pack” (DCF-FF1)
There is only ONE variant of this pack. It is suitable for any modelling scale between N and Gauge 1!
It includes a single Flickerfree2 and 6 springs. It is designed for locos, guards vans or in fact anything that might need constant switchable “flicker-free” lighting in DC or DCC use.
DCCconcepts Flickerfree2 – “3-pack” (DCF-FF3xx)
(Note please – There are no special FF3B options pre-packaged for N as we feel that the larger LEDS needed would be far too visible within the coach)
DCCconcepts Flickerfree2 – “6-pack” (DCF-FF6xx)
(Note please – There are no special FF6B options pre-packaged for N as we feel that the larger LEDS needed would be far too visible within the coach)
DCCconcepts Flickerfree2 – PCB’s only
DCCconcepts Flickerfree2 – Pickup Springs Only
These are a delight to use—simply remove one wheel, add the spring and replace the wheel-set, making sure you note which wheel is “live” to the track. Drill a small hole in the floor of the coach/tender/caboose etc, and solder a bit of fine wire to the tag end on the spring. Connect the wire to your flickerfree or loco pickups etc.
You will be delighted at the low added friction of these pickups—they will add almost nothing to the drag at all, but will always be able to give perfect pickup as long as you keep track and wheels reasonably clean.
DCCconcepts Flickerfree2- LED’s only
Please click HERE to be taken to our range of LEDs—all of them are suitable for use with Flickerfree
Installing Flickerfree2
(1) A special 6 page guide for Flickerfree2 in the form of a downloadable PDF file showing how to take maximum advantage of its new features (Click here)
(2) General flickerfree instruction: The information below was created for the original flickerfree, but it’s a helpful guide with step by step photo’s so we will retain it “as is” for now…. Please read on.
Overall perhaps the hardest part of this whole process will probably be the disassembly of the coach!
Flickerfree2 really is easy to install and if you take your time and follow these instructions, making any necessary allowance that your coach is different to ours, you will be pleasantly surprised how easy it really is.
Each coach gets easier too, so while you may spend an hour or two on the first one, soon you will be doing it very quickly!
Here are the first few dead easy steps….
Step 1:
First, examine the PCB. You will note that there is a space for the required resistor at one end. Bend the resistor leads at a right angle, insert leads through the holes (resistors aren’t directional, so either way is OK). When its snugly against the PCB, solder the resistor in place and trim the leads short.
Step 2:
Work out how long the PCB needs to be for the coach/vehicle it will go in. Shortening it is easy with a razor saw, however if you want it longer… that’s easy too.
The PCBs are 140mm long – however we supply ten for every 6 Flickerfree2 units, so if you need more length – we thought if that… so at each end of the Flickerfree2, you will find a pair of holes close to the end/edge as below.
Its easy to link two PCBs simply by soldering wire links between them!
Please note only one resistor is needed, so for the second linked PCB just use the cut off lead from the first resistor to make a wire link over the resistor space. (the cut off resistor leads can also be used to link boards)
Step 3:
Now you have the PCB the right length, you can add the LEDs. The longer lead is the positive and this should ideally be on the same side as the resistor.
Simply insert the LEDS at the spacing required. The holes are perfectly spaced/sized for the LED legs, so you should be able to easily insert them and push firmly home until they are close to the board.
(the holes are 5mm apart all along the length so you can place them precisely where you want them This illustration shows them every 6th hole, which is a 30mm spacing)
Now, before you solder, check—the LONG lead is the positive and they should all be on the same side as the resistor.
If you like, before you solder, you can also test all the LEDS—just apply 9~12 volts to the two small solder pads at the very end of the PCB (by the resistor)
(Because the holes in these very high quality PCBs have solder pads both sides are through-hole plated, the LEDS will have enough contact to light without being soldered!)
Step 4:
Happy? Ready to solder?
OK, now, recheck that all the LEDS are fully home in the PCB and solder.
We like to apply a very little “sapphire flux” to the leads/pads before soldering.. But that’s up to you. Do be quick with the Iron – to make sure its got a good clean tip wipe it on a damp sponge before soldering….
And… DO use good quality solder… Our Sapphire 179 is perfect for PCB soldering, and is the best there is, bar NONE!
After soldering, check each joint carefully, then snip the leads off close to the PCB. Test again and we are almost ready to attach Flickerfree!
The PCB should now look like this…..
Step 5:
Attach the Flickerfree2 to the PCB: This really IS easy.
The RED lead is positive—attach to the PCB at the very end of the board, on the same side as the resistor (This is the same place you used to test earlier…as you can see, a PCB hole is provided).
The lead is already stripped and tinned, so it should be a quick tidy job!
The BLACK lead is negative. Repeat the procedure in the other hole, right alongside the Red lead.
Now…. It should look like the picture below… and we are ready to test the PCB with the Flickerfree2 attached.
Step 6:
Time to test: Attach the two black wires to any 12~18 volt power supply – it can be AC, DC or DCC… Flickerfree2 does not mind.
Its best to use a couple of temporary connections at this time… then you can reproduce what we achieved in the photographs below…
Because Flickerfree2 is properly regulated to stop high current surge when used, it will NOT immediately glow—be patient, and in a short while, you will see the LEDs start to light—a few seconds after that, they will be at full brightness. Full charge will take perhaps a minute.
First: a picture with power attached…..
Now… disconnect the power—the photo below was taken using the SAME rig as the one with clips on the leads—and as you can see, even though we took several minutes to coil the leads for the photo, the LEDS are still glowing happily – Leaving you with working LEDS with NO power connection at all!
This is of course perfect for standard DC or AC analog layouts… as your coach lights will stay on even when you stop at a station!
INSTALLATION EXAMPLES:
Each coach will of course be different — and there is a HUGE amount of information in the downloadable instructions . Have a go, you will be surprised how easy it is!
Here is an example of coach with Flickerfree2 being installed.
And here we have the result… a very realistic light level, nice and even too because there are LEDs where they should be, distributed through the coach
Without a fancy unit as above The capacitors would kill the DCC control signals. I run analog DC in OO gauge with some lighted carriages, individual 3mm LEDs one per compartment on non corridor stock with miniature bridge rectifiers and I use capacitors, about 8mm long, 5mm diameter an on my brakevan with internal and tail lights they give up to 5 seconds glow after switch off.
What I have done is use 2.5 volt “Gameboy” etc power packs to power my lineside buildings lighting with no resistors or anything else fancy, just good old yellow LEDs (White is too garish modern 1970s for me!)
I have found that, to limit flicker lighting on a caboose or other car , I used one pick up on one
truck ( both wheels for same polarity) and another similar pickup on the other truck picking up the other polarity, works great. It gives you two wheels for picking up one side and the other two wheels
to pick up the other side,limiting , lots of contacts no flickering. Ted
Because DCC is actually AC, you should use a bridge rectifier to convert the track voltage to DC, before feeding it to your LEDs. You can then put a DC capacitor on the output of the bridge rectifier to eliminate the flicker. Of course, LEDs typically use 10 to 15 ma current, use the appropriate resistors for limiting the current to each LED. Are they wired series, or parallel, this also determines the resistor values. If you don’t want to fuss with selecting resistors, then read on…
I have found the most amazing LED driver chip, surface mount, smaller than a grain of rice, that protects the LED while supplying regulated current to the LED. You install this chip in series with each LED, no resistors needed! The Mfr part # NS150010YT1G, Digi key or Newark Electronics, 100ea cost $20.50. These chips accept an input of 0 to 50vdc input, and will regulate the output to 10ma for the LED. They can also be used on your signals and locomotive headlights for LEDs. I actually use them with AC circuits, and they still work…
Jay Ross, surely the capacitor still kills the DCC signal?
I use a little Maplin bridge rectifier for my coach lights as they need to work in both directions on DC
I found wheel tread pickups bearing on the top of the wheels stay clean without dragging too badly as otherwise the pick up wheels get dirty very quickly.