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11 Responses to Non-DCC diesel loco Conversion
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I am also interested in this topic. I have a large number of older Atlas locos mainly GP 38-2s that I would like to convert to DCC. Anxiously waiting for the solution.
Hi have just purchased a DCC controller and want to convert older Bachman 2-8-0’s to DCC so will be interested in what to do and also if it is worthwhile thanks guys.
Most older locomotives can be converted to DCC with the addition of a DCC decoder. One MUST make sure the motor is insulsted from the frame. Depending on the vintage of the unit it can vary from as easy as removing the shell and replacing small jumper with a plug in decoder, to quite involved on some models. One older Atlas unit I did had long light bars that went to a single bulb in the center. That one required adding new lights. As mentioned most steam models can have the decoder installed in the tender.
Have fun,
Allen
I’m in the process now for the first of a few locos of mine, almost all (3-4 dozen) are older Athearn BBs . My plan is to install a combination of DC-compatible adapter cards, all of which have a plug-in spot for either a dummy plug or (later on a DCC decoder). Meanwhile (i.e., while my budget keeps my in DC), I will be adding some directional lighting and/or ditch lights to my DC locos, depending on which kind of analog board I use in each loco (different DC/analog adapter cards include the resistors, ICs, etc. to perform the different light functions). Right now I’m queuing up some KATO SD40-2(mid) analog cards (which include full-on or flashing ditch lights, controllable in DC – see KATOs website), and I have some Atlas cards originally designed for use in AEM-7s (those only have directional lighting, no ditch lights). To make the conversion manageable, I’m identifying those locos in my fleet that will be “lead” locos – they’ll get more features, while other locos will either be non-lead locos (no headlights or ditch lights needed). For running on DC, non-lead locos will be powered (if they match up well with the performance of a specific lead loco) or be dropped down to dummy status (if they don’t match up well performance-wise with a “leader.” It might seem the long way around in places, but for me there seem to be several benefits:
(1) the analog cards are available (generally from people upgrading to DCC) really cheap, and
(2) I don’t have to figure out the wiring from scratch (which would take a lot of time); and
(3) I’ll get to add features to my BBs (the Athearn headlights got tossed long ago when hardwiring the locos);
(4) I’ll be installing LEDs for all the lights as I go (which I’ve had in mind for awhile now); and
(5) nothing I add to the BBs will have to be tossed if/when I move to DCC.
I may install DCC into one or two locos so I can run them on other’s layouts. I’ll be using dual-mode decoders for those locos, which will allow me to dip my toe into DCC, so to speak.
So…I continually have my antennae up for Athearn, Atlas, KATO, or Ulrich analog boards….
I’m only in the early (pre-implementation) phase of this project, pre-staging analog boards, LEDs, etc. while wrapping up some other projects. Best, K
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modeling Norfolk Southern 1982-1998
It is possible but all conversions are different depending on model and manufacturer. First thing is to evaluate how the loco operates, from do you need to apply a lot of current to get the loco to run good, the cleanliness of the track, and such. If these are not there then it may be not worth converting as the loco needs help, if not a re motor job or electrical help from pick ups or armature. And if you are going to do the work yourself or have someone do it for you as some charge s35.00 for the work on top of the price of the decoder. For a few extra bucks you can get a Dcc equipped or ready loco that you know runs well being new and drop in the decoder yourself, the instructions are very detailed.
All dc loco’s can be converted, if you take your time.
First thing is to determine which wire serves what – i.e. For track pickup, Red right (engineers side)
Black left (firemans side). The rest of the wiring can be any color, so you have to trace out each
wire, finding which two go to the head lamp and which are for the rear lamp. Once you have those traced and have them noted on paper, you can procede with the install.
If you chose to use LED’s in place of the incandescent lamps, be sure to add the proper resistor(s)
in line.
Following the NMRA guide for colorcoding, connect the appropriate wires to the decoder, use heat shrink to protect the soldered joints.
Most decoders come with instructions, and are relatively easy to install. I think finding the room
for placement of the decoder is the hard part.
TO build up confidence, buy a couple cheapie decoders along with some LED’s & resistors and
try to install them in a seldom used locomotive….if you take your time, you will be amazed at how
simple it actually is……
I am not a dealer, just an old guy that enjoys the hobby…..;-)
The Geezer
Every locamotive needs a decoder installed in order to run it under DCC. Modern “DCC equiped” loco simply comes with the decoder already installed. Almost any loco *CAN* have a decoder installed, but many older locos may not be worth the effort. It will depend on how well it runs already, and how much work you are willing to do. Many more modern locos it is simply a matter of droping the decoder in and maybe pluging the circuit in. In some older cases, you may need to make some modifications to the loco. The best thing to do is to talk to someone who has already installed one before. You could ask at your local hobby store, or if you can find a club that uses DCC, they will almost certainly have someone who help you. Good Luck.
Thanks to all for the advice. I think I’ ll buy some DCC locks and then try a project with the few I own that are not DCC. Looks like too much time away from my railroad and the payback is not that big
Thanks again !
I have found help instructions and or videos just by typing ie: Atlas GP38 in search engine. Such as google.
Having installed decoders in about 50 locos I make the following comments:
1. Older locos tend to be very demanding in terms of current. Check the stall current and install suitable rated decoder. Fitting an under rated decoder can prove fatal.
2. If the loco has two motors, fit two decoders and run as a consist.
3. Older locos with a split chassis are notoriously difficult, you almost have to dismantle in order to insulate the motor. then you have to create a point for electrical contact. Unless you are confident in what you are doing it might not be advisable to tackle a split chassis as your first decoder installation project.
4. Some tender driven Hornby trains are similar to split chassis in that it is not relatively straight forward to isolate the motor.
5. Personal preference is to to install a socket assembly before fitting decoder as this allows decoder to be removed or changed easily if problems arise. Though not in all cases as space restrictions may prohibit.
6. If lighting is required then personal preference is to isolate completely and operate lights through decoder being mindful of thetotal current requirements..
Finally, do not be deterred, there is a lot of satisfaction to be gained in the operation of locos when the job has been completed., Hope these comments help
Thanks Geezer !!