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To Block Or Not?
Newcomer Bob is hoping for some good advice from experienced RR’s and asks:
“I am new to the hobby and am beginning to build an N-gauge layout on a 4×8 tabletop with no reverse loops. I will be using DCC. How do I know if I should divide the track into blocks or not? I plan to run no more than 2 trains at one time, at least for now. Will blocks allow me more freedom for expansion in the future? At this point I’m still pretty overwhelmed by it all! Thanks for any advice.”
Add your suggestions to help newcomer to the hobby Bob.
4 Responses to To Block Or Not?
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BOB
I DON’T KNOW WHAT TRACK YOU ARE USING, BUT I WOULD RECOMMEND USING BLOCKS. IF YOU WIRE THE BLOCKS SO YOU CAN TURN THE POWER ON OR OF, YOU HAVE THE BEST OF BOTH WORLDS.
As you are DCC, I wouldn’t bother with blocks. That way if you have sound locos, or rolling stock with lights, the lights and sounds will not go off, unless you command them to from the controller. A DCC loco will not move – or stop – until you tell it to, so there is no need for isolating sections.
You really don’t need blocks if only running DCC. I personally prefer using blocks because it helps in isolating any electrical problems such as short circuits. If your layout is wired without any blocks, and you suddenly get a short circuit, then how do you pinpoint where the problem is? Even when running DCC, I like to shut off blocks for trains that I am not running, to me it’s easier than turning the sounds of loco’s off. I made my own block detection system using Atlas’s controller switches. They allow me to know what section of track is occupied by either a loco or caboose (my cabooses have lights installed so that they draw current and appear in a given block). The Atlas controller switches have rectifiers and LED’s installed in them so that they light if the block is occupied, and I use them to turn blocks on and off. They work with either DC or DCC. For a 4×8 layout, you can have lots of blocks, or just keep it simple with only say, 4 blocks. Whatever you decide, remember that it is easier to plan it into the layout as you are building it, rather than to try to put them in after your track and ballast have been laid.
If you are wiring your layout from the beginning then wire the whole thing hot. You can sub power to yards if you want to to kill everything sitting in those areas you are not using but why would you do that. Feed a Bus wire of 16 guage or better ( I use Trailer wire) as a Buss feed that follows your each rail under the layout with phone wire for your drops from the track. Just solder rail connectors to the drops every 6 feet or so and ensure you have these on each side of your switches so there is no power loss. If you do this you can travel all over your garage without power loss. Ensure you have double insulators in the rails where you might someday install block signals. They are cheap to install while you are laying track. Later you can install the signals without tearing up your track. Under DCC you can operate switching while running the regular trains you plan, Under DCC you can have 2 engines in the same block running different directions. ADD additional throttles and have your friends over and have an operations night. Power it all up and leave it on for great fun. (Note if you have switches that are directionally powered then you will need to double insulate the outgoing tracks)