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Why Does The Solder Joint Just Look Ugly?
Ugly solder joints can be a result of inexperience or maybe the surfaces or tip is dirty. It is an indication the solder did not properly flow, and that perhaps the soldering iron might also not have been hot enough. A good solder joint is typically flat and shiny. To achieve a good solder flow, you will need to have the surfaces clean and shiny, and the iron heated to maximum temperature, before the solder touches the tip of the iron.
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4 Responses to Why Does The Solder Joint Just Look Ugly?
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I have learned soldering while building my layout. Should have practiced beforehand. However, I think the biggest reason it tends to look sloppy is because I used too much solder. Just a tiny amount will do the job. And I now do not solder each joint. Just ones in high stress areas, like curves.
The solder Temperature is to low.
Solder will only flow when the temperature is right!
Off course cleaning the parts and using the correct solder flow is an important factor in the soldering process.
Mostly it is the case that the solder iron is too small for the job.
I have soldered many PCB’s and the trick is to heat up the parts so that when you touch the solder against the heated parts it immediately starts to flow. As soon it flows you will remove the iron away from the parts ( Almost instantly) when the desired connection is made.
When I worked at Northrop Aircraft Co. We were given a 40 hour Weapon Spec. soldering course. It was so redundant, it almost drove me nuts, but I learned to solder! That being around 1986, I still do lots of soldering. First off, you need good equipment, I like a Weller solder station, Model TC202, 60W/120V/60hz. Not a cheap station, but so much better than the cheaper ones available. You also need the correct solder iron tips for the given job, narrow tips for extreme accuracy, broader tips for beefy jobs. As for the solder, I like Radio Shack’s .032″ Rosin Core Solder #640-0017. I have tried lots of other solders, but this has been the best buy a long shot!
O.k. A good solder joint needs the proper amount of heat, so as to make it quick, and not to take so long as to burn and damage the items being soldered. For larger joints you have to apply more solder, just enough to get a good flow, and when done, it should be shinny. When soldering wires, I always strip the wire, then I will “Tin” the wire by melting solder into the bare stripped tip. That helps the soldering process, especially if you want to solder that wire to a Rail. You can also Tin the portion of the rail, where you will be soldering the wire, it works so much better, using less time and therefore less heat to protect the rail ties. I make lots of projects with Brass, and for that I use a bigger tip, to get more heat quickly. Having not enough heat is a big problem. It is much harder to get good joints, and takes too long, causing the heat to travel farther into the subject being soldered. Good heat gets the job done faster and better.
Always make sure that the surfaces are clean before soldering. I use Isopropyl Alcohol 91% and Q-tips. The Isopropyl Alcohol can be found at local drug stores. Sometimes I may use a file or Exacto knife to rough up a dull surface first. That helps the solder to adhere much better. You can use the Alcohol and Q-tips to clean the solder joints after soldering too. Having several clip-on heat sinks can also help to prevent excess heat from reaching sensitive areas around you specific solder joint. It all takes time and practice, to get good, so give it time. You can practice soldering on spare wires and parts that will help.
Also – I don’t know if you use it in the States, but lead-free solder doesn’t give very good joints, compared with leaded solder.
You cannot re-solder a leaded solder joint with lead-free, and vice-versa, it will not bond.
If you still get crystally-blobby joints, either you are soldering dirty, soldering too cold, soldering without enough flux, or you moved the joint before the solder cooled.