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Connecting Wires On A Model Railroad
Club member Malcolm R sent in this tip to share:
There are various methods for connecting wires ranging from suitcase connectors that pinch into the wire, to the popular screw-type terminal strips. Some hobbyists prefer using spade lugs. If you don’t have any spade lugs you can put a little solder onto the end of the stranded wire and bend it to form a “J” shape to install on the terminal.
If your intention is to use multiple connector wire, then stagger the splices. This will to help prevent short circuits by keeping the wires visually apart. You can use electrical tape, heat shrink tubing, or some liquid electrical tape (get it from an automotive store – there are several brands available). Liquid electrical tape can be messy to use but works well. It will drip and take time to harden, so care is needed. Some brands come with a brush, but you might prefer to use a toothpick for applying it in delicate places. Seal the can securely between uses as it will dry out if air gets in.
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4 Responses to Connecting Wires On A Model Railroad
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There are several ways I an making connections. A lot of it depends on how often I would be disconnecting them. I have built my layout so that if I move, That the layout will come apart to do so. For the occasional disconnect like I might need to get service men into the furnace I am using the terminal strip block. I also have 2 sections that are removable to get things through the overhead door if needed. I also have modular sections like portable clubs use that I use the four prong trailer connecters for a quick connection. These work very well for any position but have gone up in price over the last several years. These modules I set up in the other bay of the garage for extra track-age when I have a large group over to run trains These will link up to the main layout with a bridge board. I also use this connecter to quickly hook up the transformers on my portable layout that I take to shows for a very quick connection. (If you use these, and you have enough wires to follow(like switch yard tracks then to protect getting the connectors onto the wrong set of wires make sure you reverse the direction of the second connectors so they don’t get confused. On the main layout I have a pair of 16 gauge trailer wire parallel the tracks underneath and I use short phone wire for a wire drop and I use these every 4 to 8 feet to ensure good power. I also use different colored wires to ensure I am following the right wire fore that track rail. I still solder the wire drops to the buss wires below but any of the suggestions mentioned above will work.
I use the screw terminal strips where each section of board might need to break apart at some point. I also use these screw terminal strips to connect items with multiple wires like signal lights and switch machines. Tortoise switch machines are an example where they are using 8 wires that needto be kept neat. The wire hook-ups to keep the wires organized.
As far as insulating the wired connections, I do it several ways. Depending on the connection, I will use the heat shrink tubing. Where there are multiple wires in the connection I will use electrical tape. I especially do that if I plan on adding a few more wires in the near future or if it is a temporary connection. And for connections that are hard to get insulated I have been using the liquid insulation and that has been working very well. Just remember to Keep the wires insulated, follow a color code to keep from mixing up your wires (all one color of wires will surely get mixed up at some point), and especially at the connection terminals follow the same wires across the terminal block so they are always in the same order. In other words: for two sets of tracks I will have four wires. I personally use a red, green Yellow, and black. I keep them in the same order across the terminal block and hopefully in the same direction and same order of the rails I am following. Happy Railroading!
from Newman Atkinson
I selected a single direction for my engines, (for cosistancy of the wiring). This covers the majority of trackage, including the soldered round house and turntable tracks. The problem I found was the Bachmann connectors to the rerailer strips only come witth two red wires. I identifed them by runing a black permanent marker the length of one wire. The plug is inserted into the track connector with the black striped wire connected to the fireman’s rail (left). These drop wires are connected ti the black and red buss wires respectively. I plan to disguise the plugs at the reraillers when I add the ballast. I have inserted arerailer section appoximately every 6 to 8 feet (1.8m- 9.75m)
.Bill Antonette
I have stayed fairly consistent with the code 100 flex track as much as possible especially to get shallower curves out of them. I have only installed re-railers where I am about to cross on or off the entry gate. I am using the drop wires soldered to the bottom of the connectors and that gets rid of unsightly connection sections with these wires showing. Ensuring good connections allows you to eliminate the re-railers. This also allows me to install wire drops on every other flex track connection and still have very few connectors for power to travel through all the while covering a lot of distance. Without re-railers I am pulling 40 foot HO trains(that’s 3/4 the way around the garage) using 3 engines in front and a pusher in the back floating a coupler about 10 cars in front of that. (Chech out the “Heavy Freight on the Shrinehill Railroad” on my you tube page called “shrinehillrail”. The only re-railers are on each side of the entry gate. I will also have them on the upper level gate when that is constructed. If you have flex track where the ends connect on a curve then while the rail is straight solder the connector with the wire drops already attached and then when you bend the rail the connections hold fast and bends a one peice of rail. If multiple flex track sections, then you need this fit and cut the rail as it would set on the layout and then solder those as they are straight then bend them around as necessary and your curve will maintain and the flex ends will not kink at the connectors. As far as the wire drops, the 4 wire phone wire are already color coded red, green, yellow, and black and that is why I used these colors in my 16 gauge bus wire following under the board for those tracks. If you allowed only connections near your power source the power would be lost the farther away from your connections and on the other side of the garage like I have you would notice a significant power drop and if you are running DCC, you for sure need to maintain the power. Newman Atkinson
Hello.
Never solder wires if using screw connections , the solder do not give any pressure back and shall be bad connection..
If using screw terminal strips they shall be open for water even if using tape .
the tape shall be useless after some time …
The best is to use :http://elby.no/Koblingsmateriell/TORIX-Vrihylse/TORIX-Vrihylse-Roed-T6-1-12-5mm2-10…( this is in Norwegian but the picture tells you what I mean. Put some silicone in and it shall stay water proof for forever.