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How To Fix Train Malfunction
Vince asks readers:
“My O27 locomotive moves along the track in some area’s fine, but then it slows down and stops. Would the problem be the tracks or the transformer? These trains are from the 1950’s and haven’t been used in decades.”
10 Responses to How To Fix Train Malfunction
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Sounds like either your rails are dirty, or the joiners between the rails are not making proper contact. Since the locos are moving fine in some parts it is definitely not your transformer. Suggest that you try cleaning your rails first, and if that doesn’t work, then check for continuity with a meter, and replace any rail joiners that are not connecting properly.
Good luck!
Thanks Steve and Gene for responding…
I had gone over the wheels and track and pins with emory cloth after cleaning with alcohol maybe I should pull the pins completely out and clean,,, Will take note where the train slows down and stops and work on those tracks…..
I agree with Steve and you might also want to clean the wheels on the locomotive also. I do this by placing a paper towel over the rails and putting some rubbing alcohol on an area large enough for one set of the loco trucks to sit on. Hold the loco in place while one set of trucks are on the paper towel and the other set of trucks are on the rails slowly increase power to the loco while holding it in place. The wheels will spin on the paper towel and the alcohol will clean the trucks/wheels. Turn the loco around and repeat the process for the other set of trucks it works great and is inexpensive.
Thanks
Gene
I agree with the above comments and would add that you need to have power to the rails every 30-60 inches (another lock-on with wires from the transformer). Make sure the loco is properly lubricated too.
I agree with all the above, you may however want to try soldering thr the joints, details on this procedure can be found on the internet. Try every thing else first as once the joints are solered it becomes a bit of a mission to remove the solder if you want to make a change. Take care and enjoy.
I agree with all the comments and would add AVOID emery cloth. You run the danger of scoring the track. Rather use a track cleaning fluid or one of those track cleaning blocks that you can get at your favourite store.
for future use take a freight car drill a hole in the underside in the middle. Take a small piece of masonite and insert a screw in the middle. the screw must be long enough to fit through the hole in the car and pull the freight car around your track. the masonite will clean the track. make the piece of masonite as wide as the freight car.
Agree with Dennis: Avoid emery cloth ! I personally would go further and avoid track rubbers, they leave grit and rubber on the track, causing further problems.
Modern nickel-silver track does not suffer corrosion indoors. Once clean, it only needs an occasional wipe to deal with any dust – paper towel is good, and if there is grease or oil, wetted with meths or lighter fluid (warning: no smoking !).
How old is the track ? If it is steel track from the 1950, and shows much rust, you might consider replacing it with modern nickel-silver track.
Clean the wheel rims: a wire brush is good, a rotary wire brush on a dremel type tool is brilliant. Croc clip leads from controller direct to the motor terminals to turn the wheels makes this process very easy.
Clean the inner faces of wheels (or axles) where the motor pickup contacts touch them.
Old motors can benefit from cleaning of the brushes and commutator.
Rails and rail joiners have electrical resistance, so the far side of the layout from the controller can lose a couple of volts. Depending on the layout size, it may help connect the controller wire to the track at two or more places. Observe consistent polarity !
You likely have two issues and possibly a third and fourth.
First, your track is likely dirty. Clean it with a soft cloth soaked in Denatured Alcohol or 91% isopropyl alcohol (the 70% stuff contains too much water). If you have rust, more aggressive measures will be required — a ScotchBrite scouring pad as they’re non-metalic and won’t gouge your track.
Second, older tinplate track pins may be fitting loosely within the rails. You’ll need to crimp the track rail ends with needle-nose pliers to ensure the pins fit tightly.
Third, if your loop is large, you’re going to get voltage drops through the track. First, I’d recommend using nothing smaller than 18 gauge wire, but 16 may be called for for long runs. Another thing you should do is put a second feed drop at the halfway point of the layout. This will provide a more even power source.
Fourth, if the locomotive hasn’t been used in quite a while or hasn’t been cleaned, you may have a carbon buildup between the armature coils (the gap in between windings). This comes from the brushes as the motor operates. Two things will clean this and both should be used. Get a toothpick and clean out the slots between the armature windings where they contact the brushes. Next, get some contact cleaner spray and spray the contact area. It’s non-conductive, but loosens up any contaminants that may be present.
Hope this helps.
Matt Jackson
Angels Gate Hi-Railers Model Railroad Club
Whatever you do, do not use an abrasive stone , as it will scratch your tracks. Been there, not good.
I agree with the above. You are probably loosing power the farther away you go from your power supply. with every connection you loose some power. If there are a lot of switches it tends to loose power. I have had to install power leads between my switches to ensure no power loss. In O 27 I remember lack od power in the turns where the load is more and you can check that by powering at a curve and if that is the case then your other curves will have less power than that one. When you put power leads up to the rails make sure you do the same with all the rails and not just the center rail. Each connection of track affects the power drain. from Newman