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5 Responses to How High To Build Mountains On Layout
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looking to build mountains and lay out for 5×10 board, I need to put “O” and HO trains.
Get some cardboard (empty tissue boxes will work) and flatten out. Be sure you have enough to make an exaggerated height/length (it’s easier to cut down, than to add). Tape together to make it as LONG as you want it, bending it for curves. Now push through your engine and tallest railcars, looking at them entering/exiting the “tunnel”. Temporarily set any buildings nearby to get an overall visual. Stand back and take a look. Mountain tunnels in real life are varying in sizes. Some cut right thru the center, some barely cut thru a side. The cardboard, along with your imagination, allows you to cheaply visualize a size that will complement it’s surroundings. Take MINIMAL measurements (must be X wide; X tall; X length for accommodation). Toss the cardboard, and build your mountain from the material you’ve selected!
Tracks go through small hills and enormous mountains. Look at pictures of tracks going through various kinds of scenery to get an idea of the proportions you want.
If you decide to go big, consider having track going up the mountainside and through higher tunnels and across bridges.
Google up pictures of Swiss mountain railways for some inspiringly spectacular panoramas.
Mountains with tunnels: Important !
Make good access hatches to get to the trains that will derail in the tunnels !
If you are modelling with plaster, remember: as plaster ages, it crumbles ! Always have internal covering for track within tunnels to prevent plaster bits and dust falling on the rails.
As always, use nature as your guide. Remember our models are always compromise. In my area a railway yard can be as long as a mile and a half – none of use have enough space (unless really blessed) in H0 to model it full length, the same goes with height. I put my “high country” to the back-scene – in 2D so it doesn’t overpower everything. closer in, if I need to have a “mountain” I try and keep it in proportion.
As a foundation I use newspaper crumpled up, held down and to the desired shape with masking tape. I drape old shirts or skirts (light cloths) or shade cloth over the paper.
For permanent layouts I trowel on plaster (Victor hard, Hydrocal, Plaster of Paris, or even plaster board flushing compound – I’m not fussy. I do this directly on the layout. If a tunnel is required this is engineered over the in-situ track (make sure trains run, and nothing snags your longest wagon first) with the necessary lining.
On portable layouts I use the hardshell method using plaster bandages or “Chux” dipped in soupy hard plaster.
Sometimes a mountain might have to be removable, then I carve polystyrene to suit using polystyrene that come protecting electric goods. I don’t buy it, although you can do, and it’s not that expensive.
Remember that in the 1:1 world tunnels are expensive to bore. Railways would use cut and fill before considering a tunnel and so should we. If we are trying to hide a train then a cut can be designed to do just that; so tunnels don’t have to be the first choice.