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Which Switches for Turnouts?

John asks readers:

“I’m creating an HO Timesaver layout. My question is about switches for the turnouts. I have the atlas switches that came with the atlas turnouts. But would like to use different switches for my control panel. Can someone recommend what type of switches I should buy and where I could find them. FYI. I’m using single pole switches for my blocks.”

7 Responses to Which Switches for Turnouts?

  • Edwin says:

    I have used single pole double throw (spdt) centre off non latching types, they are readily available.
    Here in the UK I get mine from Maplins, any good electronics hobby shop should have them.

  • David says:

    Use DPDT switches.
    You can get them at Mouser or DigiKey

  • Joe Graffi says:

    IF you are going to use the Atlas solenoid controlled turnouts, you can use either spdt center-off MOMENTARY switches OR simple push-button switches. Almost all of these are made ‘overseas’ and quality/reliability can be sporadic.
    Problem with ALL solenoid controlled turnouts is that the solenoid ‘fries’ very quickly. If the switch shorts, you’re done. If you, or someone else accidentally leans against the switch, etc. … there goes the solenoid.
    Yes, you can buy replacement Atlas solenoids. Buy a few and you’ll be paying more than using a ‘motor’ controlled turnout controller such as “Tortoise”.
    There are at least a dozen suppliers online for the switches and turnout control motors. I utilize 3 different suppliers for all my RR bobbie needs. You can get the switches @ Radio Shack as well.

  • Ken says:

    Allelectronics.com
    DPDT MINI
    CAT# SMX-8
    $1.00 each
    10 to 99 $0.90 each
    100 or more $0.80 each
    I use one side for capacitor discharge SW motor throw and the other for frog power or signals or…

  • Newman Atkinson says:

    Atlas switches are ok but as they get older they tend to loose good connectivity there in the switch throws. dirty connections on the switch rails and such. Also engines that do not have very many pick-ups tend to loose power on the frogs. Some are plastic and even the ones that are metal you need a switch motor that can give you a circuit that will through the right rail power to the frog when switched. Also the switches you get in beginning sets are usually a number 4 switch and for most better engines and cars you need a number 6 or better switch (Shallower). Many of your better cars and engines have a hard time using sharp number 4’s. Some good Steam engines have a hard time on 6’s if you are using manual switches and need to power the frog then consider a regular house switch Get the cheapest out there as they work fine but use the 3 way house switch for your circuit. It was in Model Railroader in an article about 2 years ago how to do it. Less than 4 bucks…… use the wire connections to power the frog if needed or lights showing the switch position. I have 4 installed already and work fine with more planned. The switch is already spring loaded to hold the switch rail in position. Use dowel rods to link to the side of the layout. If the switch is not straight with the layout edge then mount the house switch as needed and run your dowel out to a mounted old CD and then to another dowel in the direction you need. takes a little time but is a good cheap way to do those with an easy push or pull handle at the side of the layout.
    Tortoise motors have 2 extra circuits that can be used for frog power and also light signals for the switch direction which can be done by using dwarf signals or post signals or mounted lights next to your switch. There are other switch motors out there depending on your needs. A tortoise can be controlled by a single single pole double throw switch. You don’t have to worry about holding the switch too long. The switch stops when it gets to its stop point. If you choose to continue to use the atlas switch motors, use a momentary buttons and also put in a master button or on and off switch that you also have to turn on or hold that momentary button to control the switch button. I had visitors one time and one of them leaned on my control board and all of a sudden I seen smoke coming from 8 of my switch motors where the hand had laid on all those buttons that were in a row. All had to be replaced. I have since then phased out the atlas switch motors for some I mentioned above. But now I am starting to lay my own switches by hand and although they still take me some time to build I am very happy with them. I will eventually go back and phase out some of my earlier atlas switches as I get a chance.
    One of the catalogs I have seen used a main panel that controlled 8 switches and worked well for atlas snap switches. They had momentary buttons for each Just use a master power switch or momentary button for protection of your switches. I think I had 4 of those panels installed at one point for a count of 32 switches. Your choice the old way or the new ways I mentioned. Either way can work good if done right.
    One other reason to use tortoise motors is that in DCC you can switch switches a head of you right from your controller. That is a good thing for main line switches to switch while on the run. Although my layout is not equipped to control them at this point I have them set ready to add the DCC controller when I get to that point.
    Even the house switches I told you about work well, they take a little time when you first do them but they work very well even if you don’t use lights as part of the circuit. That is my plans for any of my switches that are not main line routes or in switch yards. Very cheap to make compaired toi store bought switch controllers even Atlas.
    Hope this helps….. from Newman Atkinson

  • Don J says:

    For wiring track turnouts using toggle switches.
    Get and use the correct =Nomenclature= helps others with the problem. Single pole double throw toggle switches are real good. Another type could be to use small push buttons. One button -BLACK – for all straight moves of the turnouts AND one button – RED- for all routed or turned turnouts. These usually take up less space on a panel board. Position your panel board near the area that has the most track turnouts so you are there when the train arrives and leaves AND you can see the operations of the train on the panel.

    Wiring is not difficult = POWER source——toggle switch—- end object.
    Thanks and good luck with the wiring. Yours in Railroading == Don J

  • Brett says:

    Peco sells a toggle switch that is momentary as it passes but the benefit is that its position shows you which way the point is set. They are a bit expensive though.

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